Written by: Mahnoor Fatima
Posted on: October 15, 2019 | 
| 中文
Khaplu Palace (photo by the writer)
For anyone with a keen interest in historical monuments, the breathtakingly picturesque town of Skardu has more to offer than its views. Located atop two different corners of the land, Shigar Fort and Khaplu Palace are restored symbols of Balti royalty and aristocracy. These landmarks are a testament to the rich and multicultural history of that area. Both forts are currently under the control of Serena Hotels, with the Agha Khan Trust for Culture heading most of the restoration work. Although the per night prices at the forts are quite exorbitant, most of the money goes to the restoration of the forts, as well as to the local community.
Shigar Fort, originally known as Fong Khar (the Palace on the Rock), was built in the 17th Century by the Raja of Shigar. The great bulge of the rock is still visible as one climbs up the stairs to catch a glimpse of the Karakoram range. Besides individual rooms, the Fort comes with its very own mosque and organic gardens, which is home to apples of many sizes and tastes.
Shigar Fort from the Outside (photo credits to Croozi)
Perhaps, the most serene section of the entire estate is the baradari, a small pavilion surrounded by flowers and running water. According to the tour guide, the Raja would lounge there after his polo matches, and cool off as musicians played outside. While some part of the original baradari remains, much of it has been restored and rebuilt using more robust materials.
A more underrated visiting spot is the Amburiq Mosque, located a few metres away from Shigar Fort. It is a 14th Century mosque built by Iranian craftsmen who passed through the area with the Kashmiri scholar, Mir Syed Ali Hamdani. The simple interior of the mosque contrasts starkly with the intricately detailed exterior. The walls are carved with Buddhist and Sufi symbols, showing how important religious harmony was to the early settlers of Shigar. Both forts also display unique combinations of Hindu, Sufi and Buddhist symbolism in their aesthetics and architecture.
Amburiq Mosque (photo by writer)
Khaplu Palace, known locally as Yabgo Khar (the Fort on the Roof), was more recently-built and is further from the main town of Skardu than its counterpart in Shigar. This 19th century fort was bequeathed to the Raja of Khaplu from the Dogra Rajputs of Kashmir, and it had a direct route to Kashmir via Ladakh. Its most interesting features were its underground passageways for commoners, and jarokhas, heavily decorated window with pointed arches that overlook over the whole valley. The popular drama serial ‘Diyar-e-Dil’ was shot here, and the last original owner who lived in the palace, was known as ‘Agha Jan’ to the locals, like the titular character.
A Typical Jharoka Window (photo by the writer)
Similar to the Amburiq Mosque, the Chaqchan Mosque is one of the oldest mosques in the region. Although it formally dates back to 1370, locals claim it is around 800 years old. It is said that Mir Hamdani also had this mosque built in a combination of Persian, Tibetan and Mughal styles. This gorgeous and serene mosque is perched on a small hill with big, open jharokas. Worshippers get the opportunity to pray surrounded by the mountains.
Chaqchan Mosque (credits to Wikipedia)
But what is surprising about these buildings is the functionality of the architecture, and the ingenuity that has gone into building them, given the limited availability of materials. The small doors and cozy rooms were made for heat retention. One can find many boxes of various sizes, meant to store wheat for the long, harsh winters in the northern areas. Even the individual pots and kettles had built in mechanisms to keep meals hot and tender for the royal families. They are all kept in their original states for visitors to behold.
Another aspect which both forts have in common, have been the extensive steps taken for their preservation and restoration. While Serena took over Shigar Palace in the late 90’s, work on Khaplu began in the mid 2000’s. International organizations, including UNESCO, USAID and the Norwegian Embassy provided funding assistance to the Agha Khan Trust for Culture for the restoration of both forts. In 2013, Khaplu Palace won UNESCO’s Award of Distinction for Cultural Heritage Conservation.
Preserved Pots and Utensils (photo by writer)
The contrast between Balti and Mughal royalty is quite interesting, since we are more familiar with Mughal culture and history. However, Mughal and Kashmiri influence heavily feature in the aesthetics of both buildings, which explains how multi-religious symbols are prominent in the walls and decorations of these buildings.
Craftsmen from Tibet, Kashmir, and Central Asia brought their expertise into the area, and took their art form to the south. According to the locals, Hasan Khan Amacha, who had Shigar Fort built, took Kashmiri craftsmen to Shah Jehan’s court in Dehli, so that they may incorporate their expertise with those of the Mughals. One can still see these Balti-Mughal influences in the Baradari at Shigar, the ceiling frescos in Khaplu and the carvings in both mosques.
Multireligious carvings (photo by the writer)
More than the breathtaking views and hospitality of its people, Skardu is an area deeply devoted to preserving its heritage and tradition, and it has been remarkably successful in its conservation efforts. More importantly, one must study and asses how the diverse and multicultural Balti aesthetics have contributed to our national art forms and aesthetics.
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