Written by: Haroon Shuaib
Posted on: October 23, 2019 | 
| 中文
Papri Chaat (Photo Credits to Anoosha Nayyer on Instagram)
William Boyd, an award winning author and screen writer once described his love for roadside cafés as, “The pleasures of my life are simple – simple, inexpensive and democratic.” The recent trend of roadside café, chai dhabas, and naan shops in the major cities of Pakistan is a positive trend.
While Karachi and Lahore have many options to boast about, Islamabad is only beginning to discover the pleasure of dhabas. In fact, the capital offers the best setting for such outdoorsy sojourns.
What first caught my eye about the latest corner café on Bhittai Road, F-7, “Nukar pey Tukar” was its jazzy social media page, with puns, humor, and youthful graphics. On a sunny Sunday, I visited Nukar pey Tukar that has been in the business for just a little over two months. Started by Mubashar, who was there at the counter, and his brother Zia, it was a cheerful place with a few indoor seats and ample outdoor seating.
The Cafe From the Outside (Photo Credits to the Writer)
I opted to sit outside and enjoy the sun and the trees. The only problem were the countless flies, but that is something the humble diner has little control over. The setting is perfect otherwise, with trees, just enough sun and a small garden patch on the side. The place becomes more alluring in the evening, once the overhanging fairy-lights are lit.
Shazil, my cheerful attendant, brought a fairly comprehensive menu and I immediately decided to start with my pet pleasure at all such eateries, Papri Chaat. The Papri Chaat was fresh and appetizing. The quantity was more than what you would expect and the presentation was clean and colorful. The best part was that the yogurt was freshly processed, and not the usual sweetened supermarket variety. I enjoy spices, so I had to ask for more salt, chilies, and chaat masala; it came instantly, and brought the delightful chaat the much needed punch level.
I also ordered an Imli Aalobukharay ka Sharbat – a traditional drink made with tamarind and the pulp of dried plums - and a namkeen (saltish) lassi. The tangy Imli Aalobukharay ka Sherbet was the prefect anecdote to placate the chaat’s sizzle. But, the namkeen lassi was a bit on the bland side. While Nukar pey Tukar would become my regular place for papri chaat, its drinks were a hit and a miss.
Imli Aalobukharay ka Sharbat (Photo Credits to the Writer)
Then came the main entrée - a quarter of a chicken grilled as Sajji, on a bed of turmeric flavored fried rice in a bowl. The rice was well cooked and the presentation was basic yet appetizing. The Sajji was grilled at an open BBQ, close to where I was seated, and the aroma already made me anticipate the first bite. It was succulent and well-cooked, but then I have seen very few places going wrong with Sajji across Pakistan.
Sajji (Photo Credits to the Writer)
The initially intriguing elaichi (cardamom) ka sherbet, turned out to be the most forgettable part of my meal, to my dismay. It was extremely sweet, without the slightest hint of cardamom. To compensate for this, I ordered a masala chai, and the ever attentive Shazil added a few cardamoms in it. I must say, that was the best masala chai I have had in a long time. Just the perfect blend of strong tea leaves, surprisingly fresh milk, and the perfect mix of masala. Just the right amount of cardamom had added that extra special something to the tea, and I recommend others to try their chai with cardamom as well.
Masala Chai (Photo Credits to the Writer)
All in all, Nukar pey Tukar is on the right track. The fun and easy going disposition, the cleanliness of the place, good service, and the right listings on the menu are all sure to draw in crowds. The prices are pretty compatible with other such eateries in town. My total bill was just slightly above PKR 1500 for the meal. The chef needs to experiment with seasonings a bit, before finding the right balance. But, I am sure with time and consistency, the place will give other chai and snack places in the capital a run for their money. I give the place a 7 out of 10.
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