Written by: Muhammad Awais
Posted on: November 24, 2020 | 
| 中文
The Top of Panjpeer Rocks (photo credits to Lubna Javaid)
With the second wave of the pandemic threatening another lockdown, people in Islamabad and Rawalpindi have taken to the outdoors to safely get fresh air and some physical activity. Perhaps one of Islamabad’s best-kept secrets are the Panjpeer rocks, a sandstone rock formation atop a hill, with a breathtaking view that stretches to Kashmir. Young people especially, have flocked to Panjpeer for a short-but-adventurous trip or an overnight camping stay. On a sunny weekend, our group decided to pay a visit to Panjpeer for a day trek.
The place is named Panjpeer (Five Saints) because of the mysterious saints who settled close to these rocks. Panjpeer is located in the Kahuta district of Rawalpindi, located on the foothills of the Himalayas. The route to Panjpeer takes about 2 and a half hours, traveling through Chak Shahzad to Lehtrar, and then onto the Kotli Sattian Road. The road is fairly straightforward and in good condition. We also drove past Neelah Sandh, a clear freshwater pond with a small waterfall, surrounded by a thick forest of trees and large boulders.
The Danoi Resthouse
At the end of the drive is the Danoi forest and a colonial-era guest house is visible at the back of a petrol station that is on the outskirts of the main market. Our group stayed there to have tea and take in the view of the lush forest, but interested guests can also book a room at the guest house by contacting the Divisional Forest Office. If someone is traveling by car, there is a jeep track and a small clearing to park cars, but do so at your own risk as there have been instances of theft and burglary.
The Panjpeer Rocks are located at the top of the Danoi ridge, at an altitude of 1800 meters. The total trek time is about 5-6 hours to the rocks and back, through the thick forest, which has some inclines but is otherwise not too challenging. The tall, green trees and the stillness of the forest made it difficult to believe that we were so close to home, and not somewhere in the North. However, hikers should keep a steady supply of water and snacks. A local guide is recommended, otherwise, it is better to regularly ask locals for directions.
The Forest and Boulders
Located a little away from the main track is the Narar Waterfall, a natural fresh waterfall with deep green water, and plenty of rocks around it. The water is quite deep, so it is best to take precautions before swimming in it. However, there was ample sitting space to dip our toes in the water, and feel the cool water droplets splash on our faces as we took a short break from the trek.
Narar Waterfall
The top of the hill was nothing less than mesmerizing, with a breathtaking view of the mountains and valleys around Danoi. Large boulders of varying sizes and textures are strewn across the hilltop, making for a unique site. Sitting on the rocks with the wind in our faces, there is an undeniable sense of calm while sitting at this vantage point. On clear days, people can see Makra Peak as well as other mountains close to Naran in the North, and locate Kashmir on the East. On the way, one can see the Jhelum River snaking through the valley, and also the hilltops of Murree and Patriata.
The shrine of the saints is located at the top of the mountains, still in good condition. Though not much is known about these saints, it is said that they lived for a thousand years, and would come to this mountaintop for meditation. There did not seem to be any graves, but there was a peaceful courtyard covered by Banyan trees which could easily be hundreds of years old. We stopped there for a while, and simply took in the tranquility and quiet of the shrine, before making our way back down to the guest house.
The Shrine of the Five Saints
As of 2020, the government has made plans to turn Panjpeer into a full-fledged tourist site, with proper routes and basic amenities. Not only does this include camping areas but also tuck shops and public bathrooms. In addition, the new roads will connect Kotli Sattian to Islamabad, Patriata, and by extension Murree.
The Route to Panjpeer Rocks
These new developments are an exciting opportunity to see this unappreciated place develop as a tourist location. However, Panjpeer’s charm lies in its peaceful surroundings, and that is already under threat as more people take notice of it. Governing bodies must be mindful of tackling littering in the forest, and taking swift action against those who misbehave with the locals. People should experience the unique and easily accessible beauty of Panjpeer, but not at the expense of endangering its natural charm and serenity.
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