Written by: Muhammad Awais
Posted on: June 11, 2021 | 
Shangrila_Resorts and Lower Kachura Lake
Now that the Northern Areas have been reopened for travel, our family scheduled a long overdue trip to the beautiful Skardu Valley to escape the heat of the plains. Skardu, located in the Gilgit-Baltistan province, is a bustling tourist destination and is often called the epitome of beauty, serenity and wilderness. Home to mountain peaks, majestic lakes and boundless forests, we were excited at the prospect of experiencing all that we could fit into a week, and the best way to start was to visit the famous Kachura Lakes.
The Kachura Lakes are three freshwater lakes located in the Indus River basin of Skardu: Upper Kachura, Lower Kachura and Zambakha Lake. While we did not visit Zambakha Lake, the Upper and Lower Kachura Lakes are close to each other and easily accessible. They are about a half-hour drive from Skardu’s city centre, and twenty minutes away from the airport. As we traveled to our hotel room, we caught sight of the mighty Indus river, coursing form the mountains in all its bluish-green splendor.
The Indus River at Gilgit
Shangrila Hotel and Resorts are perhaps one of the most popular, beautiful and well-known hotels in the country. They ere founded in 1983 by Brig. Muhammad Aslam Khan, the first commander of the Northern Scouts, and named after a mystical Buddhist temple in James Hilton’s “Lost Horizon” (1933). In the book, the idyllic lamasery was home to fruits, flowers and fresh-faced monks who were actually hundreds of years old. As we caught a glimpse of the signature curved red roofs, surrounded by trees and flowers, we were washed over by a wave of relief and relaxation.
Lower Kachura lake itself is in the middle of the resort. It is small but deep, and there are boat rides around it which offer great opportunities for photography. This lake is surrounded by vibrant hotels and restaurants serving local cuisine as well as attractions like the grounded Orient Skyline airplane, which is now converted into a café outside the resort. Our favorite time of the day was sunset, when we could watch the changing colors of the sky outside the Shangrila’s Pagoda Restaurant with a fresh cup of tea.
The Orient Skyliner Cafe
While Lower Kachura Lake is filled with people and activity, Upper Kachura is where one goes to be surrounded by nature. Located amongst lush trees of conifer and apricot, the lake is about 70 metres deep and filled with clear blue water. It is a charming and peaceful place, surrounded by majestic and imposing Himalayan mountains on all sides. Activities here include a boat ride around the lake, swimming, fishing, or just a casual walk around the surrounding village areas. The locals are quite helpful and are used to seeing tourists, but for women, it is recommended to keep a headscarf.
From Shangrila, the road to Upper Kachura is short, smooth and lovely, offering a panoramic view of the Resort and surrounding buildings. Parking is located at a clearing that is used mostly as farmland, and one has to carefully wade through crops on a mud path to get to the stairs leading down to the lake. The path itself is not very steep, and the locals often descend down steeper paths with ease.
The Mountains Over Upper Kachura
On the way down, one comes across a small dhaba (corner restaurant) where there are local delicacies, as well as seasonal fruits like apricots or cherries. According to the owner of the restaurant, some 1500 years ago the Lake was a small village filled with greedy and mean-spirited people. A stranger arrived in the village seeking food and shelter, but was turned away by the unkind villagers. However, a kind old woman offered him shelter in her home, and shared the only piece of bread she had in the house. The stranger revealed himself to be an angel in disguise, sent by God to test the villagers. He warned the lady to leave the village, and that night the village was wiped out to form Upper Kachura Lake.
While the story speaks of the almost mystically purifying quality of the lake, it also alludes to the friendly nature of the locals, whose hospitality echoes the spirit of the kind woman. The boat ride is slow and calming, and we placed our hands in the cold, crisp water as the boatman and the tour guide, joked, sang and talked about growing up in the mountains. There is an undeniable sense of calm and untouched beauty, no matter how many people are around the lake, and the only way to describe it is through superlatives.
Upper Kachura in the Autumn
We were taken to a small patch of land on the other side of the dock to participate in some trout fishing. While some of us tried (rather unsuccessfully) to reel in some trout, others preferred to sit on the rocks and dip their toes in the water and the smooth sand of the lake bed.
Famished after exploring the lake, our party had tea and snacks by the restaurant, and bought some dried cherries to take home. On the way back, we stopped at the gravesite of Brig. Khan and his wife to pay our respects. Located on top of a hill with a panoramic view of Lower Kachura Lake and the resort, with a breathtakingly colorful flower garden, the site was purposely chosen by Brig. Khan and his wife so that they may always be able to watch over their creation.
Upper Kachura Lake (credits to S.M. Bukhari)
Everywhere one turns in Skardu, there is a picturesque corner or spot with a unique view. These lakeside areas continue to offer stunning scenery and an opportunity to enjoy nature in its pristine form. Skardu has been badly impacted by the lack of tourism caused by the pandemic, and one hopes that with mass vaccinations and a decrease in cases, people will once again return to enjoy the wonderful views and experiences it has to offer.
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