Written by: Mahnoor Fatima
Posted on: January 19, 2021 | | 中文
As one ventures through the cypresses, wildflowers and lush greenery that surround the Maiji Mountains of China, one can see the figure of Buddha towering over the park, surrounded by intricate stairs. These are the ancient and mysterious Maijishan Caves, with dizzying stairs leading into caves, and large Buddhist sculptures have watched over the land for thousands of years. The poetry of 6th Century writer Yü Hsin exalts the beauty of the caves, “carved in the darkness of the mountain peak”, its walls “covered with inscriptions taken from the holy scripture” and the surrounding landscape bathed in brilliance by “an infinite medley of stars overhead.”
Located in the south-east of Tianshui City in the Gansu Province, the Maijishan Grottos house 194 caves filled with 7200 stone statues and 1300 sq. meters of mural paintings. The name “Maiji” means “wheat sheaves”, because its unusually tall appearance and its flat top closely resemble a sheave of wheat. It is one of the Four Grand Groups of Grottos, alongside the Magao Caves in Dunhuang, the Yungang Caves in Datong, and the Longmen Grottos in Luoyang.
What is special about these grottos, is the unique layout of the caves and the overall mystery that surrounds them. Unlike the hills at Dunhuang and Yungang, these caves are built in accordance with traditional Chinese layout, without featuring a central shaft. While there are a few sandstone sculptures around the caves, many of the sculptures use a particular kind of stone specific to these hills. But work on the Maijishan Caves has just begun, and there are very few archives and historical sources on the evolution of the Caves. It is still largely unknown how these statues were made, or how they were transported up the steep hill.
The Grottos have a long history of construction and excavation, and may have already been used to worship local deities or ancestors. Buddhist grottos became popular around the later Qin Dynasty (384-417), when the Silk Road was the major route through which Buddhism traveled from India to China. It entered the Gansu province due to the patronage of the Northern Liang Dynasty (397-460). Sometime between 420-422, a monk named Tanhong settled at Maijishan and began to build a small monastery community there. Another senior monk named Xuangao brought 100 more followers, and eventually this community became 300 monks strong. However, there is no information on how this community was organized, or how it dispersed following the period of anti-Buddhist sentiment.
Construction reached its apex during the Northern Wei (386-534), and work continued through the Song (960-1279) and Ming (1368-1644) dynasties, culminating in over a thousand years’ worth of artistry. Historical records show that it became a place of great scenic beauty, and due to its strategic location on the Silk Road, many travelers would come here to pray for a fruitful journey and successful sale. Each monk would add a unique veneer to these pieces of history.
Because this Grotto was close to the Central Asian trade routes, much of the artwork is influenced by Central Asian cultures. Sculptures that date to around the 6th Century have more South Indian and South Asian appearance. When the caves were repaired and renovated during the Song and Ming dynasties, the statues had mostly central and Eastern-Chinese features. The tallest statue stands over 16 meters tall, while the smallest is only 10cm. Vivid colors and patterns adorn the clothes of the statues and the murals on the walls, which experts believe are more valuable than their counterparts at Magao.
However, despite the thousands of people who would pray here for peace and success, this place was hotly contentious, and needed significant upkeep. Located in the middle of an active earthquake zone, construction and restoration of the caves expanded over 12 dynasties. Alongside this, the anti-Buddhist persecutions of 446-452 CE resulted in many monks abandoning the area for fear of their safety. As travel along the Silk Road lessened, many of the caves were looted and decayed due to neglect. But according to a stone slab from the Ming Dynasty, the caves continued to be a site of monastic activity until the 18th century.
Though the Caves have been on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage under the series, “Silk Roads: The Routes Network of Chang’an-Tianshan Corridor” since 2014, attempts to preserve and catalog the grottos are still underway. With the rise of tourist activity in China, historians and archaeologists need to formulate a proper policy regarding the preservation of the site. According to heritage specialist Kuanghan Li, “It has not undergone a lot of major intervention, at least in modern times. It’s still pretty much intact and authentic.”
The Maijishan Grottos are something of an underrated tourist spot in China, but that does not mean that they are not as equally fascinating or captivating as other Silk Road sites. The sculptures and murals stand as a testament to not only the artists’ dedication to their faith but also the multicultural community of the Silk Road. Even while historians attempt to archive the work done in the caves, they acknowledge great historical and religious importance of the site. It is a place worth visiting and exploring for those who wish to immerse themselves in the world of Ancient China and the Silk Road.
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