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    Bhit Shah: A Town of Sur, Raag, and Bhittai

    Written by: Mahnaz Shujrah
    Posted on: March 31, 2020 | | 中文

    Entrance to the Shrine (photo credit to the writer)

    The subcontinent is generally divided into two major regions, based on the literature dating back to the first Arab conquests. The land East of the Indus river was referred to as “al-Hind”, and the area on the West, “al-Sind”. Throughout history, Sindh has been a geographically strategic area, and the center of the Great Indus Valley civilization. Over centuries it has witnessed countless rulers, religions and languages. From within this ethnic mosaic emerged a strong folk culture and the Sindhi language, rooted deep within the soil of the land.

    A prominent feature of Sindhi culture is the traditional following of saints and shrines. One of the most popular shrines in Sindh today is located in Bhit Shah, the final resting place of the famous Sindhi Sufi poet Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai (1689-1752). His father, Shah Habib, a descendent of a notable poet Abdul Karim of Bulri, is said to have migrated from Afghanistan in search of spiritual knowledge. He settled near Hala in Sindh where Shah Latif was born, close to the Indus River.

    A Painting of Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai

    Shah Latif was believed to have an observant and inquisitive personality. He was fluent in many languages, knowledgeable about the Quran and other religious texts, and went on frequent excursions to surrounding areas. One of his favorite places to sit and meditate was a great sand mound, Bhit, not too far from his home. He would spend hours pondering over philosophical questions, and became well acquainted with the local musicians who wandered the desert. Shah Latif’s beloved father was buried on that mound when he passed away, and Shah Latif is buried just a few meters in the same complex. The town which erupted around the shrine is known as Bhit Shah.

    The construction of the shrine took place in 1772 during the rule of Ghulam Shah Kalhoro. Shrines are often constructed by followers or devotees, but the story of this shrine is indeed unexpected. It is said that during much of Shah Latif’s life, Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro was the ruler. Kalhoro was not on good terms with Shah Latif’s family, and was not particularly fond of the poet either. Well aware of his simple and humble personality, Kalhoro invited him to an extravagant royal event, with dancing women, in order to publically embarrass the mystic. One dancing girl in particular was given the task to entice the Sufi poet.

    The Roof of the Shrine (photo credits to arifa on Flickr)

    While everyone else was offering gold coins, Shah Latif had no money to offer. He told the girl he could give her nothing but a prayer (dua) that one day she would give birth to the ruler of Sindh. As fate would have it, this girl named Mai Gulan became the wife of Noor Muhammad Kalhoro, and gave birth to their son, Ghulam Shah Kalhoro, who became a devout follower of Shah Latif. This account is not verified but it is well known amongst locals and Sindhi families as oral heritage.

    The tomb is decorated with beautiful blue and turquoise title work called kashi kari, a technique native to Iran and later adopted widely throughout the subcontinent. Generally, shrines come under the authority of gaddi nasheens, descendants of Sufi disciples, who are often local landowners. Gaddi nasheen tend to wield a strong influence over the region, and their presence plays an important role during rituals and ceremonies.

    In the case of Bhit Shah, fakeers are also important stakeholders. They are motivated by their religious fervor and they actively and continuously promote Shah Latif Bhittai’s work. There are several types of fakeers, each with distinct roles and duties. Most of them belong to a less privileged background, and they live around the shrine complex.

    The Shrine Door (photo credits to the writer)

    For 300 years these two groups have been responsible for the activities of the shrine. However, since 1960, the primary control of the shrine belongs to Auqaf Department, a governmental department which overlooks the financial and structural aspects at the provincial level. This is also why it was recently closed under strict orders of the government to prevent gatherings at shrines, for fear of the spread of Coronavirus in Sindh.

    Shah Latif Bhittai was a contemporary of other iconic Punjabi Sufi poets, including Bulleh Shah and Waris Shah, both of who’s shrines are located in Punjab. Bhittai and other Sufi poets deliberately chose to express themselves in the vernacular languages, in order to communicate effectively with the ordinary people. This is why their message is still remembered, recited and adapted by modern day followers.

    Local Musicians Paying Tribute(photo credits to Bashir Osman Photography)

    Bhittai’s final work is compiled in Shah Jo Risalo. What makes the tomb of Bhittai even more unique is the gathering of Raagi Faakirs as they perform Shah jo Raag, accompanied by the tambura, an instrument, which some say was perfected by Bhittai himself. These ritual performances occur at designated times of the day, and several specific rituals happen on certain days of the week. The most important event of the year is the Urs of Bhittai, during which the entire town comes alive and goes for hazari (attendance) at the shrine. Bhit Shah Mela (festival) is also a relatively new initiative, to promote cultural events, local languages and musical knowledge, along with arts and crafts activities for children.

    The Urs of Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai (photo credits to Bashir Osman Photography)

    After traveling through many remote parts of Pakistan and exploring diverse cultural sites, there is something distinctly special about Sufi shrines. They are living spaces which have shaped the society around them. The different aspects come together to function as one living, breathing organism. Each time I have visited Bhit Shah, I came across devotees and visitors of all ages, socio-economic backgrounds, religions and ethnicities. There are many women at many of the shrines, but the strict gender division are changing the dynamics within the boundary of the complex.

    Today there are many translations and research on the work and life of the great scholar, poet and philosopher Bhittai. As a cultural enthusiast, it is fascinating to visit and discover the legacy left behind by the great Sufis who have shaped the local culture, and contributed to how religion is practiced within the Subcontinent.

    For more information on Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai’s work, click here.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021