Written by: Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro
Posted on: December 19, 2024 | 
A view of Nali Valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The picturesque Nali/Nari Valley, in the Dadu district is home to several rock art sites which showcase Sindh’s cultural heritage. Over the past two decades, I have discovered and documented several rock art sites in the Nali Valley.
Both stupa and vihara (Buddhist monastery) representations are found in Nali Valley's rock art. However, stupa engravings are numerous compared to viharas, which are only found at a few rock art sites. Both forms of stupas, domed and tower-like structures, can be seen at various rock art sites in Sindh. These stupas are carved into rock walls, caves and rock shelters found in multiple locations across Mol, Baran, Nali, Gaj, Makhi, Sallari, Chhanhar, Buri, Mazarani and Seeta valleys in Sindh.
The author in Nali Valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
Among the various themes represented in the rock art of Nali Valley, two themes stand out prominently: depictions of bulls and intricate engravings of Buddhist stupas. These themes provide insight into the historical and cultural narratives of the people who inhabited this area. The presence of Buddhist stupas, in particular, highlights the significance of Buddhism in Sindh’s history.
Some of the most notable sites where these stupa engravings can be observed include Sado Mazo, Hur Dhoro, Chiti, Gaptar, Nai Jhudri, Khotho and Chuchar rock art sites. Each location offers a unique glimpse into the artistic styles and symbolic meanings behind the creations, contributing to a deeper understanding of the ancient communities that once thrived in Nali Valley. Each rock art site represents more than just a collection of engravings; it is a gateway to a rich history eagerly awaiting rediscovery and appreciation.
A stupa engraving at Khotho rock art site. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The Sado Mazo, Chiti, Hur Dhoro and Kalri rock art sites are particularly significant, showcasing an impressive array of prehistoric and historic carvings. The prehistoric engravings offer insights into the lives and beliefs of ancient peoples, while the historic carvings provide a glimpse into recent cultural expressions. Among these historic engravings, one can find intricate depictions of various animals, anthropomorphic figures that might represent deities or ancestral beings, and detailed topographic representations that map the surrounding landscape. A few rock art sites present symbols associated with both Zoroastrianism and Buddhism.
The Nali Valley is home to two distinct forms of stupas: domed structures and tower-like formations. These architectural features are skillfully engraved on rock walls, caves and rock shelters. The tower-like stupas of Nali Valley are further categorised into two main types: small and large stupas. Small stupas are generally characterized by one to two stories, while the large stupa has more than three, four and even five stories. The large stupa may include a dome, though some may be constructed without a dome.
The earliest depiction of a stupa can be found in the rock art of Gapter in the Nali Valley. This representation features a domed structure with a hemispherical dome topped by a harmika. This style of domed stupa corresponds to the 1st to 2nd century A.D. However, certain canonical features are missing from this representation, as it does not include a sopana (stairway) or a chattra (parasol).
A stupa image in Nali Valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
In the 4th century A.D., one observes the evolution of the Sindhi stupa from a hemispherical dome to a circular dome, as evidenced by one of the stupa petroglyphs at Pipal Kumb in the Nali Valley. This stupa has four square platforms with a recess and four receding storeys. The dome (anda) rises from the fourth storey, and is topped by a simple harmika without a parasol. Interestingly, the recess of the stupa is adorned with a floral scroll. Furthermore, there are six more stupa images located at Pipal Kumb.
Another form of stupa appears in the Chuchar Dhoro of the Nali Valley. This stupa is depicted with pillars similar to those found in the Gandharan stupas. I have seen a similar representation of such a stupa at the Chilas II rock art site. The pillared stupa in Chuchar Dhoro is particularly interesting due to its broad base. The anda or dome, rises from the stupa's base, which rests on a wide drum. Two pillars are positioned on the sides of the stupa, while two others rise from the corners of the dome, indicating that the stupa is encircled by four pillars. A large finial extends from the top of the dome. It is evident from this architecture that this is one of the earliest forms of stupa depicted on a cliff of Chuchar Dhoro, which dates back to the 1st century A.D. However, this form of stupa did not spread to other valleys in the Khirthar Bado, Bhit and Lakhi Hills in Sindh.
Another form of stupa is found at the Kalri rock art site, located south of the Pipal Kumb in the Nali Valley. This stupa features a cylindrical dome that terminates in a semicircle, similar to the Dhamek stupa at Sarnath in India.
A depiction of stupa in Nali Valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro
A highly advanced form of the stupa can be seen at Chiti in the Nali Valley, where the stupa is depicted on a cliff near a representation of a bull. This stupa rests on a rectangular platform, with its dome supported by four storeys and a torus of diminishing size. The dome is topped with a harmika and umbrellas, while the finial above the umbrellas is without a streamer. The first storey of the stupa is adorned with two lotus designs, and the third storey features a zigzag pattern. This particular stupa is the most advanced and refined carving found in the Nali Valley. When creating this large stupa on the cliff, the artist appears to have been inspired by two similar stupa carvings at Chiti rock art site.
Moreover, a smaller stupa representation is located southwest of the large stupa on a boulder. It is carved on a boulder facing south and rests on a rectangular platform. Like the larger stupa, its dome is supported by four storeys. The first storey is decorated with a lotus design, while the third features geometric designs. The topping element above the dome is a finial without a streamer, and unlike the larger stupa, this carving lacks harmika and umbrellas.
Apart from the Chuchar, Kalri, Pipal Kumb and Chiti rock art sites, the Sado Mazo has five stupa depictions. Three stupas feature a similar architectural design, while the fourth is a tower-like structure. The fifth stupa remains unfinished. The first stupa is situated at the extreme southern end of a rock wall. This prominent stupa is accompanied by an illegible Brahmi inscription, whose faded letters hold secrets of the past. The stupa features a classic dome that rests elegantly on three stories, providing a sturdy foundation. A finial rises atop the dome (anda) , adorned with streamers that once fluttered gracefully in the wind, though they are now weathered by time.
Depictions of stupas in Sado Mazo rock art site, Nali valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The second stupa shows signs of deterioration, partially damaged due to the gradual erosion of the surrounding rock wall. Despite its weathered condition, it resembles the architectural style of the first stupa, featuring a three-tiered structure. This stupa is located near the Zoroastrian fire altar. Similar to the first, the dome of this stupa also rests on three stories; however, significant erosion of the rock wall obscures the details of the finial and streamer. Apart from the Sado Mazo rock art site, several stupa images are found at the Hur Dhoro and Nai Jhudri rock art sites. Most of these engravings at Hur Dhoro are found on the boulders, which now appear badly weathered. This site also has two types of stupas: domed and tower-like. In addition to representations of stupas, a few depictions of monasteries, or Viharas, in Nali Valley are also found.
Stupa engravings in Hur Dhoro, Nali valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The detailed carvings of these stupas provide valuable insights into the architectural styles and religious traditions that flourished in pre-Islamic Sindh. They not only represent the aesthetic qualities of the time but also provide crucial information about the cultural context in which these structures were built and used.
The writer is an anthropologist. He has authored 16 books on Pakistan's cultural heritage and anthropology. He tweets @kalhorozulfiqar.
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