Written by: Hurmat Majid
Posted on: September 25, 2020 | 
Chatkharay Shops in Hyderabad Colony
There's something delightful about the thought of having pickles on a hot summer’s day. Those who have similar thoughts, may find themselves awestruck by Karachi's Hyderabad Colony. After Partition, the neighborhood became home for those who migrated from Hyderabad, Deccan to Pakistan. Those who settled in Pakistan, brought over their distinct culinary dishes and small scale crafts like pickle-making and bangle production, which would remind them of home in these new surroundings. The street, tucked away behind Jamshed Road, has achaar (pickle) shops lined with shelves upon shelves of pickles, ranging from obvious choices like mangos and carrots to unusual ones like bittergourd and fish.
"We sell pickled chicken and beef" Mr. Tahir, the owner of Daccan Achar Ghar told us. As unusual as it sounds, the delicacy is a staple in Hyderabadi households. "Our grandparents started this shop, it was quite small in 1950," he told us, happy to have an audience. "We have about 20 varieties of pickle, some made in oil, others in vinegar. We make them from mangoes, lemons, onions, chillies. If there's something that can be pickled, we do it!" Tahir said cheekily.
All of the pickles are made in-house in a small room behind the shop. "All our work is done here, we use fresh ingredients, and the traditional methods and family recipes have been passed down from generation to generation."
Mr. Tahir with His Jars of Pickles
The shop also sells a variety of other Hyderabadi delicacies like Mirch ka salan, Baingan ka raita, dabal ka meetha, and an array of chutnies, cooking pastes and traditional crackers. They also have a variety of fried kachories, lukmie and pakoras being sold fresh to daily customers. "People who live on this street or those passing through here, love these evening snacks and come to buy them regularly," Tahir told us.
"We pride ourselves for using traditional methods, it's all made in mustard oil or other vegetable oils. None of those olive oil faux pickles for our customers," he said when asked if he was adapting to newer techniques for customers who have health concerns. "If they're health conscious, they can have the vinegar varieties," he said chuckling.
"I do TV segments on morning shows sometimes, they call me Chef Tahir," the shop owner told us with a proud smile. He explained that he had a television show on a popular food network called “Achar Chatniyan”, and that he was planning creating a YouTube channel which involved him making pickles in his shop for a broader audience. "I know it will be a hit, people love watching others cook," he laughed.
The shop adjacent to Tahir's, is called Chatkharay and it belongs to Mr. Wajahat Khan, "Once upon a time, we owned half of Hyderabad Colony, when our forefathers started the business. It grew so much that, there was one huge shop which started from the middle of the street to the end of it. However, we are nine brothers, and only three of us are left in the trade now. So, we run our separate businesses, selling the same stuff under the same name, the others sold their shares and moved abroad. I don't think the next generation will even manage these three shops, our children have grown up and have different dreams now. They don't want to sell pickles," he said.
Making a Fried Treat with a Pickle Filling
When recalling what the street used to be like when business was booming, Wajahat said, "The other side of this whole street was lined with bangles and jewelry shops, this side had a number of achar shops, and others selling authentic Hyderabadi food."
This has been the case with many family-owned businesses in the area. Rapid urbanization in the area in the 1980s had resulted in the creation of apartment complexes and construction projects. many of the original inhabitants sought greener pastures and shifted out of the area. Unfortunately for those who remain, business has slowed down tremendously. Both pickle shop owners talked about how the Coronavirus has been a major reason why some shops are no longer open for business. Business in these smaller pockets of Karachi have not been able to cope with the economic fallout of the COVID crisis.
"Our businesses will always remain open for our regular customers, they still come to us and even sell our products abroad in tins," Wajahat said. He added that his shop also provides special delivery services to old clients. "These families are special to us and we have done business with them for generations, so of course we give them special treatment," he smiled.
While searching for other Hyderabadi shops, we stumbled upon a tiny bangle shop in the street which was first established in 1949, named Suhaag Ghar. "I don't know how many generations of our family made bangles, I just know that my grandfather established this shop when he migrated from Hyderabad, Deccan. Many generations before his carried this trade forward before him, but it will die with me," Sheikh Iqbal, the shop owner said.
Bangles in 'Suhaag Ghar'
Shelved in the crammed shop were row after row of bangles in dazzling colors and different sizes. Some of them were made in traditional Reshmi design, while others were simply colour-coated. When asked what the difference between the Reshmi and modern bangle, Sheikh explained, "Reshmi bangles are made with coloured glass, they don't fade, lose colour or get old. These newer ones lose their color upon use, they don't last long."
A Craftsman making Reshmi Bangles in the Shop
"We barely get any business now. Only some old Hyderabadi families come to us when there is a wedding in the family. When there is a wedding and our old patrons come to us, they all want the traditional evergreen Reshmi bangles for the bride and for all the women in the family. We keep the other fancy stuff for other buyers, looking for more modern designs," Sheikh said.
While the street doesn't bustle with buyers as it once did, Hyderabad Colony is still an attraction for those seeking the taste of authentic Hyderabadi cuisine. The local tight-knit community continues to keeping their culture alive for each other by making dishes and products the traditional way. Those who are interested in tasting delicious achar and learning about one of the oldest settled colonies in Post-Partition Karachi, need only pay Hyderabad Colony a visit.
You may also like:
