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    Faiz Mahal: Sindh's forgotten treasure

    Written by: Marzia Bilwani
    Posted on: April 30, 2018 | | 中文

    Faiz Mahal, Khairpur, Sindh

    This time on our family trip to Sindh, we decided to explore a lost jewel; the Faiz Mahal in Khairpur. Capital of the princely state of Khairpur and present—day Khairpur District, the city of Khairpur was founded in 1783 by Mir Sohrab Khan Talpur. The Talpurs came to power after defeating the Kalhora Dynasty and ruled over Khairpur for three centuries (1783 to 1955). The Faiz Mahal was built in 1798, to serve the needs of the royal family and act as the chief building for the Talpur monarchs.

    At the time of independence, Khairpur acceded to Pakistan on the condition that it could maintain autonomy over certain areas. However, in 1955, a change in leadership led to the abolition of all princely states, and Khairpur became a part of Sindh.

    A row of mihrabs

    A row of mihrabs

    After a journey of around six hours from Karachi, we entered a small village near Ranipur. Another hour of travelling, and we reached Khairpur. The outskirts of the city were dotted with date trees, making for a beautiful change of scenery from the desert-like vegetation we had gotten used to after Hyderabad. Further inside the city, signs of rapid urbanization were visible. After driving through the heart of the city, we finally arrived at the Faiz Mahal.

    As we entered through the rear gate of the Mahal, a small mosque with faded white paint greeted us, offering a faint view of the red domed towers opposite. The outer areas seemed abandoned, and for a moment I wondered if like other historical buildings in Pakistan, the Faiz Mahal had also been neglected. But this was not so. As I walked in and saw the frontal view of the Mahal, I was absolutely stunned by its magnificence. Despite the hot sun beating down our backs, we could not help but admire the pink, white and yellow palace from every angle. The symmetrical archways, domed towers and arched balconies, contrasted against the urban landscape of present-day Khairpur. While coming to this city, I would have never imagined that such a beautiful architectural treasure could be found here. The building transported me to life of the royalty in the 18th century.

    Silver-plated royal seat

    Silver-plated royal seat

    Towards the front lay a vast and lush green garden, with flowers lining the edges. While my family members were taking photographs of the building, I spotted an aged caretaker, and asked him a few questions about the Mahal. He told me that the garden was previously a haathi khana, where the royal elephants and horses of the rulers were stationed. I immediately pictured an elephant with an intricately designed howdah. He also mentioned that the family of the last Talpur monarch now resides in Karachi. Gesturing towards the entrance, he said, “The interior of the Mahal is even more beautiful.”

    The gardens of Faiz Mahal

    The gardens of Faiz Mahal

    Leading towards the entrance was an open porch, held up by beige and white pillars with intricate detailing. Deer heads were mounted on the walls, signifying the royal extravagance from another era. The symmetry of the corridor was made striking by the sunlight falling through the arches.

    Deer heads mounted on the wall

    Deer heads mounted on the wall

    Moving inside, I set foot on the scarlet carpet and stood in complete awe. The inner columns and archways had intricate motifs, whilst golden frames containing oil paintings of the rulers in all their glory, had been hung up on the walls. On some walls, old photographs had been hung up to narrate the rich history of the Mahal. Real lion and tiger skins were preserved in glass cases, indicating the exotic tastes of the monarchs. Large chandeliers hung from the adorned ceiling, brightening up the entire space.

    Paintings and photographs of the royals

    Paintings and photographs of the royals

    The dining table

    The dining table

    In one corner was the entrance to the dining area, which consisted of a massive table, easily capable of accommodating around 40 people. As I looked up towards the ceiling, I was amazed by the ostentatious gold-plated detailing, which contrasted strikingly against the white. Sculptures made by masters of the craft had been placed on ornately decorated pedestals, with lamps which further enhanced the magnificence of the room. There were rooms upstairs too, with large doors that offered a view of the ground floor. However, we were not allowed to view these. After hearing about our long journey, the caretaker arranged tea and biscuits for us, and our weariness melted away due to the warmth of his hospitality.

    Although the Mahal stands unused now, it once symbolized power in the region. To some extent, it still does, by serving as a reminder of the glorious days of the past. Once upon a time, the royal Talpur family resided here, yet this architectural treasure is barely known to our public.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021