Written by: Hurmat Majid
Posted on: December 30, 2020 | 
| 中文
The Shishlik Kebab-e-Shandiz
The experience of dining out has evolved so much in the year 2020, many of us are skeptical about what to expect in these new circumstances, and are hesitant about eating out. Even with restaurants offering open-air seating and assuring customers of following all government guidelines, it takes the promise of a special experience to bring one out of their homes.
After months of ordering in, we took a chance and found ourselves on Sindhi Muslim street in Karachi one afternoon. While the name “FARS” had popped up on our Facebook news feed many times, but it seemed like a good option, with no crowds seated outside. The guard informed us that there is partitioned cabin seating upstairs that is open for diners.
Seating at FARS Restaurant
Upstairs, we found ourselves in a Middle-Eastern style baithak (sitting room) with beautiful soft carpets and cushions adorned in calming colors. The walls behind us carried intricate woodwork in geometrical patterns. Among all the Middle Eastern eateries we have visited over the past two years in the city, this place stands out for its ambience.
Before our menus arrived, we were served warm mutton broth with aromatics. The flavour was subtle, and warmed our insides on this unusually cold day. The server assisted us in choosing our dishes, insisting that we try the mutton dishes, since they were the restaurant’s specialty. However, the menu itself is quite authentic to Persian/Middle Eastern cuisine, and does offer other meat-based dishes. In the end, we settled for Boti Kebab Afghani (beef) and Shishlik Kebab-e-Shandiz as our appetizers, and Chelo Kebab Maqsoos Koobideh Mutton for our main dish.
The Mutton Yakhni
The Boti Kebab Afghani were succulent and tender, with the distinct taste of a slow cooked roast. The flavor of the meat was the highlight of the dish, and the restaurant held up on its promise to not add inauthentic Indian spices to its food. The spices only complemented the meat, rather than drowning it in spices. It was served with a basket of fresh, fluffy bread that absorbed all its juices.
Boti Kebab Afghani
Secondly, the Shishlik Kebab-e-Shandiz or “Mutton Chops” were cooked to perfection, and the cut was sliced flawlessly. Served with an assortment of vegetables, pickles and yogurt, the chops were cut with finesse, as the meat retained its shape. Here too, the meat was the star of the dish and the true flavour of mutton stood out.
When the Chelo Kebab Maqsoos Koobideh Mutton (or Mutton Kebab with White Rice) arrived, they looked unappealing; it seemed as though the rice was not cooked in stock, which is a staple of Middle Eastern cooking. The kebabs were hidden under the pile of rice, and the dish came with a side of vegetables pickled in vinegar, along with a roasted tomato. This was probably the only dish served to us that we did not enjoy as much. As expected, the rice was bland and only lightly buttered. Furthermore, the kebabs did not retain all their juices when cooked, and seemed to be a little on the drier side.
The Chelo Kebab Maqsoos Koobideh Mutton
Overall the experience was worth risking going out to eat. The damage to the pocket was around Rs4500, including tax. For two starters, the main dish and a bottle of water, that is quite a reasonable amount to pay, especially for mutton that was cooked exceptionally well.
What truly won us over that afternoon was the hospitality that was shown by the staff. When we called for the bill, we were given a complementary bowl of date ice cream as a gift for our toddler, which he enjoyed thoroughly. In these uncertain times, people are still learning how to show kindness in ways that do not involve physical contact, and small gestures like a complimentary bowl of ice cream and an honest recommendation of the menu, made us feel welcome. We will surely visit again to try more of their dishes.
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