Written by: Hurmat Majid
Posted on: December 08, 2022 | 
| 中文
Front side view of Yuan TungHurmat Majid
Going to a Chinese food place that opened up in the ’80s is like meeting an old friend. You may not see each other for years, but your romance picks up right where you left off. You can’t help but feel like no time has passed since the last time you saw them. That’s exactly what it’s like when you visit Yuan Tung.
Tucked away in a street off main Tariq Road, the restaurant has been there for nearly 50 years and the decor tells you as much, large replicas of Chinese fans hang on the walls along with some Chinese tapestries. The wallpaper is a light olive green with hints of gold and the other walls are all off-white. The establishment has been opened up in a bungalow that has been remodeled on the inside to make space for large dining halls and a cash counter. Both the ground and the first-floor seat guests, so the restaurant can accommodate over 100 people at a time for about 20/25 tables.
Chinese Fried Rice and Chili Garlic Prawns
We decided to visit on a Saturday night and were surprised that even as early as 7 pm, a few tables were already seated while more guests poured in steadily throughout the evening. Our elderly server looked like he had been working here for years and had a good grip on how to suggest menu options, without being too intrusive. He helped us pick a dry prawn side dish after pointing out that both the beef and prawn dishes we had earlier chosen were gravy based.
We chose to start the evening off with a clear Thai Chicken and Vegetable soup. The broth was a huge bowl, with obvious umami chicken stock notes that ended with a hint of lemon. The broth had a depth of flavor and we could tell that a lot of time and care had gone into its preparation. The vegetables in the soup had all been prepared well, and it was evident from the fact that all of them retained their vibrant colours, even the string beans. This was the first time we had had string beans in a Thai soup, and we were surprised at how suitably they fit into the whole concoction. The marinated chicken melted in our mouths, and we polished off the whole serving bowl happily.
Hot and sour soup
For our mains, we chose Beef Chilli with Vegetables, Egg Fried Rice and a serving of fried Lemon Chilli Prawns. For starters, the Lemon Chilli Prawns are what will keep taking us back to Yuan Tung over and over again. They were batter-fried and crisped up to perfection. The concoction of lemon juice and spices that the prawns were coated in gave them the perfect balance of tang spice and sweetness, without making them soggy.
Chili Prawns with Garlic
The beef chilli had a sauce like no other I had tasted before; it was equal parts sweet and had a hint of umami that comes with either dark soy sauce or peanut butter. However, its moistness was not the kind we get in desi Chinese by adding copious amounts of ketchup to the dish. The meat and vegetables were cut into bite-sized pieces, so we did not have to wrestle with them in order to fit them on our spoon. The meat was well seasoned and the vegetable dish had a certain amount of crunch left to them.
Beef Chili Garlic
The rice was cooked to perfection with each grain standing out individually. The ratio of vegetables to rice was on point, and the egg was cooked well and did not smell eggy. Also, the rice was seasoned enough to not taste bland, but the seasoning did not overpower the gravy in any way. However, if you did taste the rice individually, it would still hold its own.
Chinese Fried Rice
The damage to the pocket was Rs4,500, and that’s quite reasonable and justified by the portions being served. The food was easily enough for 4 people. The waiters deserve a special mention, as nearly all of them looked like they were well over 50 and had impeccable manners. The restaurant is one of those that still has a tip jar, where the night’s tips are pooled and then divided amongst them all, so we suggest you tip generously for their service.
Sticky Fish at Yuan Tung
Overall, Yuan Tung is the place to go to for anyone who has a nostalgia for the ‘80s, while enjoying some great food. And in all honesty, no number of chain Chinese restaurants popping up around the city could ever even come close to the taste these old holes-in-the-wall serve. The only question that now remains is how soon we would be returning to get our hands on those yummy prawns, and to have a bowl of that soul-warming Thai soup.
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