Written by: Kulsoom Malik
Posted on: May 11, 2021 | | 中文
Under the twinkling lights and the busy stalls that are set up throughout the country the night before Eid (‘Chand Raat’ or ‘The Night of the Moon Sighting’), many women and families flock to the impromptu market stalls, which are filled with chatter and music, as families pick up the last pieces needed to perfect their outfits for the next day. Since ancient times, wearing henna and special bangles went hand in hand with times of togetherness and celebrations.
The act of buying bangles and henna (whether directly applied or bought in tubes) is part of a long tradition of beautification, adornment and cosmetic use in the Indian Subcontinent and beyond. Henna or Mehndi, comes from the Lawsonia Inermis plant, found all across Near Eastern Asia and the Middle East, the Indian Subcontinent and Northern Africa. It binds to the keratin of the skin, creating a temporary tattoo-like appearance on the hair, nails and body, often with a bright red or orange-brown hue. It is said that the drier the soil of the plant, the richer the color of the henna it produces.
Along with wearing bangles that signified marital status, henna has been some of the earliest forms of body adornment. They have often been used as markers of marriage and fertility during rites of passage, and religious symbols were often added to female bodies using henna. However, over time bangles and henna were simply worn as symbols of beauty and embellishments, with much of the bangle material and henna design made from whatever was available. In Pakistan, henna and new bangles are often worn during times of festivity, like the coming Eid-ul-Fitr and Eid-ul-Adha.
Historical records of applying henna go back 5000-9000 years in history, with ancient Egyptian mummies wearing henna during the time of their burial, and Queen Cleopatra covering her body with henna. Researchers believe that henna traveled to Western India in the 12th Century BC, while archaeologists have found traces of Henna at the Ajanta Caves of Deccan, India that date back to the 5th Century BC.
While so much henna produced now has artificial dying agents and chemicals, the natural plant still has many medicinal and herbal properties. Henna was often used in areas with hot climates as a cooling balm or natural sunblock for hair and extremities. It has also been used to combat fungal infections and as an insect repellent. Some even believe that it has the power to cure headaches, wounds from burns and sunburn.
On the other hand, bangle manufacture and adornment has been tied to the culture of South Asia since the Indus Valley Civilization, 5000 years ago. This circular band is the oldest known accessory in history, with the famous Dancing Girl of Mohenjo-Daro wearing bangles that covered her arms. Depending on various regions and family traditions, the most expensive bangles were gold or ivory, whereas common bangles were made of glass, stones, shells, terracotta and more.
Most of the henna and bangle stalls are set up in Pakistan on the days leading up to Eid and the night before Eid. These are mostly informal shops or home businesses, so their revenue is not properly recorded. But those who work the stalls claim to make thousands of rupees between the sunset of Chaand Raat and the sunrise of Eid. However, at home in a more intimate space, traditionally female members of the household gather to design simple or intricate motifs on hands, arms and feet. Those who are experts explain that it gives them patience, and allows their imaginations to run wild as they create rich tapestries of dye for their friends and family.
Due to the current third wave and countrywide lockdown, there has been a strict curb of pre-Eid activities that also include bangle and henna shopping, as well as henna application at stalls. Although it is difficult to imagine the holiday without these gatherings and rituals, henna and bangles remain an essential part of Eid festivities. They are important ways through which women have expressed themselves, and have come together to celebrate the many blessings of Eid.
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