Written by: Haroon Shuaib
Posted on: November 30, 2022 | 
| 中文
HouHai Lake and the surroundings
Other than the more obvious Great Wall of China at Balding Pass, the Palace Museum and the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, the Temple of Confucius and many other such sites, Houhai is a lake and its surrounding neighborhood is the Xicheng District. It is also a must-see, if you happen to be visiting Beijing. Houhai is the largest of the three lakes, along with Qianhai (‘Front Sea’) and Xihai (‘West Sea’), which together form Shichahai, the collective name for the three northernmost lakes in central Beijing. Since the early 2000s, the neighborhood around Houhai has become known for its nightlife as many residences along the lake shore have been converted into souvenir shops, restaurants, bars, and cafes. The area is also replete with many large and small temples, historical palaces and residences of the nobles, and hutongs, narrow streets, or alleys commonly associated with northern Chinese cities. This mix of ancient and modern is what makes Houhai an amazing amalgamation of modern China, and a regular hang-out for a large crowd of Beijingers and expatriates visiting Beijing, especially on weekends.
The food street of HouHai Lake area at night
Houhai, the largest of the three lakes, is an artificial lake, covering a total area of 87 acres (35 hectares). It is said that the waters of Houhai are connected with the ‘dragon vein’, an important and invisible artery that can keep things peaceful, steady, and prosperous according to Daoism. The lake was built about 700 years ago during the Yuan dynasty (1271-1368), and formed part of the ancient water management systems of the dynasty. With a large central water body offering a beautiful backdrop for the sunrise and sunset of Beijing, the area was soon gentrified by the Yuan and reserved for the royal family. Developed as part of the Yuan winter capital of Dadu, it is located in the center of the modern city of Beijing. It faces the Forbidden City from a distance of just 4 kilometers and the former residence of Soong Ching-ling, the third wife of Sun Yat-sen, a very consequential political figure, is a stone’s throw away from Houhai. Also located in the Houhai neighborhood is the residence of Prince Gong, who was an imperial prince of the Aisin Gioro clan and an important statesman of the Manchu-led Qing dynasty. The former home of the famous poet Guo Moruo is also a must-see in this area.
HouHai Lake and traditional Chinese buildings
The neatly laid out but labyrinth-like Hutong network around Houhai Lake Area, was also created during the Yuan dynasty. The Yuan's 787-meter-long Nanluogu Lane is considered one of the oldest hutongs in Beijing, and is located in one of its oldest neighborhoods. Just a stroll in this area is an experience, as it has many traditional buildings of Chinese architecture.
Boat riding at HouHai Lake
Houhai literally translates to “Back Sea”. The lake surrounded by willow trees is a good place to enjoy some leisure time by strolling in the area, taking a boat ride on the lake, or sitting at one of the restaurants of the Houhai Bar Street. The Houhai lake area becomes especially busy at night, when the bars open for business and people come for dinner or drinks after work. Most bars feature live music which range from Reggae, Jazz to Chinese music. Being a popular area, bars charge higher prices for food and drinks than in other parts of the city. Despite the higher prices, the Houhai lake area is a great place to enjoy a lakeside dinner or drinks and soak up the local atmosphere, after a busy day walking around the Forbidden City and other sights. Many tour managers also offer to arrange a family visit or a homemade lunch in a local hutong home and guided trips, so the visitors don’t miss out on the experience of sipping the legendary Chinese tea at one of the charming teahouses dotting across the hutongs, or the well-stocked souvenir shop full of hidden gems. For those who do not want to walk, there are commercial rickshaws available throughout the Houhai Lake area. The Bell and Drum Towers are also very close to Houhai Lake, and can be visited at the same time. Other close by important monuments and tourist attractions that are a short walk away are Beihai Park, Jingshan Park and the Lama Temple.
A choir performing at a bar in HouHai area
In December and January, when the water is frozen, Houhai Lake becomes a wintry playground with a variety of skating activities available, the most popular of which is chair-skating. Young and old residents of Beijing, along with many foreigners, can be seen enjoying the experience of a frozen lake in the heart of the city. The best time to visit though is from August to October. In summer, the lotus flowers in Houhai come into bloom. Boats are available for hiring and can be rented out to fully enjoy the beauty of the lake and admire the flowers. There are wild mandarin ducks in the lake.
Winter sports are being held in Beijing's HouHai Lake during December and January
The mountain viewing from the Yinding Bridge is a must on any list of ‘The Eight Great Sights of Yanjing (Present-day Beijing)’. Yinding Bridge got its name because it resembled a silver ingot (Yinding in Chinese). In the past, people standing on the Yinding Bridge could appreciate the view of the Xishan Mountain. It's like a space-time tunnel that connects the ancient buildings in the Ming and Qing dynasties with visitors. As the cooking smoke rises from the many restaurants that dot the northern bank of Houhai Lake, the district forms the perfect showcase of ancient and the modern that together make Beijing one of the greatest cities of the world.
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