Written by: Hurmat Majid
Posted on: June 18, 2021 |
Khaleequr Rehman’s Hunger’s Den is both a reasonably priced restaurant that caters for the less privileged, and also provides employment for chefs returning from abroad made jobless by the pandemic. It’s an effort to combine a successful business with a commitment to philanthropy and a desire to introduce world cuisine to the people of Karachi. Located at the Kashmir Road turning, off Shahrah-e-Quaideen, this restaurant attracts customers with its huge bright blue and orange board, and its quaint seating. With lockdown restrictions in Karachi only allowing for dining outdoors, the restaurant has placed two tables outside and taken up space in front of the adjacent shops, once those shops shut down for the night.
The owner, Khaleequr Rehman, told us that the idea for Hunger’s Den was formed when several overseas Pakistanis returned home, after being rendered jobless during the pandemic. “A number of these people were skilled chefs and kitchen workers who had to return home because of unemployment caused by economic slowdown. I simply called these people to this place and offered them jobs,” Rehman explained.
He said that he did not have an elaborate interview process or ask people to showcase their skills, and that charity had always been the driving point of the restaurant. “I took a chance on people based on my belief in Allah and it paid off,” he said. “The result is that many of these cooks and chefs have brought recipes that they learned in different countries of the world to our humble establishment, making the dining experience unique here.”
“Anyone can sell a burger, but we were the ones that brought the idea of pouring cheese over them to Pakistan,” Rehman laughed. While Hunger’s Den is just a year old, he had started another business selling food online called ‘’Online Dhaba. “I ran that business for a year and spent 70% of its profit on providing rations to deserving families that I saw around me.
However, another thing that Rehman noticed after that first year of business, was that a lot of able-bodied men kept coming to him asking for rations because they were jobless. “That’s when I realised that I could be of more service to people if I started finding them employment opportunities, rather than simply providing them monthly rations.”
“When I started Hunger’s Den, the initial plan was to use 70% of the profits here in creating and finding employment opportunities for these young men looking for work. This way, they have a means of income of their own, can reach financial independence and pass on the word so I can help more people,” Rehman said, adding that he has long term plans to use the money to buy rations and provide funds for job opportunities. Rehman’s son, who has a passion for cricket and philanthropy, also helps out at the restaurant.
Our conversation with Rehman was preceded by a fascinating and diverse dinner. Our meal started with the crispy chicken tacos, hard shell flour tacos filled with pulled chicken as well as some crispy chicken tenders. They were topped with a cream-based white sauce and a tangy hot sauce that gave them just the right kick. While the dish was enjoyable, it was missing the traditional corn and salsa that would give that authentic Mexican kick. Even though the dish is listed under starters, three tacos per serving meant that there was plenty on the plate for one to enjoy.
The portion for our other starter, the cheese fries, was quite hearty too, with a generous amount of liquid cheese. This is a side dish that can quickly become a comfort dish for kids and adults alike. We gobbled up the hot, gooey side within minutes.
The first entree to arrive on the table was the Lava Burger, a beef burger with a patty that is as big as the buns. Once the dish arrives on the table, a generous helping of melted cheese is poured on top, live at the table. While the cheese pour is satisfying to watch, the dish is not for anyone averse to cutting up their burgers with a fork and knife. There’s no other way to eat it since it is encased in hot, melting cheese. Once people get past that hurdle and the idea that it will not be a clean meal, the burger itself is quite well-balanced and satisfying.
The beef tenderloin steak is served with a side of fries and pan-fried vegetables. The white cream-based sauce topping the steak tasted freshly made and had just the right amount of richness. The steak itself was well-seasoned and cooked through, making it an enjoyable meal but not the best-cooked cut of meat we have ever had.
In an attempt to try out a variety of dishes on the menu, we ordered the Hakka noodles and mushroom fried rice from the Chinese section of the menu, and were pleasantly surprised. The Hakka noodles turned out to be our favourite item. Served hot, we could taste the special sauce that went into the dish, and the batter-fried chicken that came with the noodles was tender and moist. We could easily have gobbled up another plate of the dish, had one appeared in front of us.
Lastly, the mushroom fried rice was fragrant and full of flavor, with the chilli flakes adding just the right amount of heat to the dish. However, the thin slices of mushrooms were sparse and we would have liked a few more chunks on our plate. A couple of items on the menu were unavailable, including the nachos and pizza. Overall, the dinner was quite a charming experience, and we agreed to visit again to try more dishes.
The bit that surprised us the most was the bill that followed the dinner service. For six reasonably portioned dishes, along with two bottles of water and two soft drinks, we paid just a little over Rs2500. Keeping this in mind, there was a consensus on the table that while not all the dishes tasted authentic, the prices for them all were justified and affordable.
To sum up the experience, we would recommend that everyone should try Hunger’s Den at least once, if not to try a variety of new dishes, then simply to chip in and help them make a considerable difference in the lives of so many people. Whether it is their effort to employ returning chefs, or their aim to curb unemployment, Hunger’s Den is an example of an establishment that is doing a lot of good for those around them.
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