Written by: Muhammad Umer Farooq
Posted on: February 01, 2024 | | 中文
At the very start of this piece, I would like to pay a glowing tribute to the neglected role of porters who make these expeditions possible. For many of these porters, summer presents an opportunity to earn some extra seasonal income in these harsh and remote areas where there are few opportunities for gainful employment. On my K2 trek, I vividly remember a porter as young as a 16-year-old, who participated in that year's trek. For him, it was not just about the extra income but is considered a rite of passage in his community.
The night at Goro-2 proved uncomfortable, as my sleeping bag failed to provide adequate heating. The 6th day of the trek from Goro2 to Concordia was, by far, the coldest day on the expedition. Despite the deprivation of rest, the joy of finally reaching Concordia in the afternoon, overshadowed any discomfort. Walking past the penitentes, rising from Baltoro just a little ahead of Masherbrum peak, was a surreal experience.
After covering 67 km on the Baltoro glacier, one of the longest glaciers, we reached Concordia, where Baltoro meets the Godwin Austin glacier. It was a village of camps, but no sight of the giant peaks in the surroundings. National and international teams, each with different expeditions to the peaks around Concordia, were present, creating a unique gathering of mountain lovers in this remote corner of the earth.
Concordia, also known as the 'throne room of the mountain Gods,' is a panoramic site with the largest concentration of the highest peaks on earth. Within a radius of 21 km, there lie four peaks above 8000m. Even when the weather is not clear here, occasional breaks in the clouds reveal beautiful peaks in the valley, including K2 (8,611 m), Angel Peak (6,802 m), Broad Peak (8,047 m), Gasherbrum IV (7,925 m), Sia Kangri (7,672 m), Baltoro Kangri (7,312 m), Chogolisa (7,665 m) and Mitre (6,010 m), each captivating in its unique way.
It took us around 10 minutes to walk past the expedition teams and find some level ground on the glacier to setup our tents and kitchen. Initially, a sense of anxiety lingered, as I had trekked around 90 km without getting a glimpse K2 itself. Preparing for the worst, I accepted the possibility of returning without seeing K2, due to the unpredictable weather common in these high mountain ranges.
The entire valley remained veiled in clouds flowing in from the Goro2 campsite. Sitting inside the camp, facing towards K2, all I could enjoy for the next few hours were dense low clouds drifting from Goro2 towards Gasherbrum and Broad Peak. When the clouds finally cleared up, Broad Peak came into view first, followed by Gasherbrum, and then a little bit of K2.
I vividly recall my emotions when I finally laid eyes on the peak of K2. As the clouds began to clear up, I initially caught a small glimpse of what I thought to be the peak, a segment of the mountain at around 7000 meters. However, in a matter of minutes, as the clouds fully dissipated, I saw K2 for the first time in all its glory. I was taken aback by the sheer size of the mountain, and where I had expected the K2 peak to be around 7000m, however, the mountain itself was even taller. Towards the night, as we prepared for dinner, the weather cleared up, and a crystal-clear sky with a luminous moon transformed the entire valley into a radiant expanse of white light. Finally, with a full belly and under the moonlight, I was at peace, gazing at some of the tallest peaks on earth.
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