Written by: Dr. Saba Noor
Posted on: July 10, 2020 | 
| 中文
Cafe Lazeez's Kitchen
If one asks every urban Pakistani about the best place in Karachi to have authentic Pakistani food, they will most likely point to Burns Road in Karachi. Burns Road was once the primary artery of Post-Pakistan Karachi, bringing together communities, dishes and, at times, politics of the people who decided to make Pakistan their home. The legacy of Burns Road is in its undeniably mouth-watering cuisine; each dish has its own unique story that fits like a puzzle piece into the wider evolution of the whole street.
Initially, the street was named after a British doctor/spy named James Burnes. Although the name was changed to Muhammad Bin Qasim Road Post-Partition, it is still known as Burns Road or more affectionately, “Buns Road”. But the neighborhoods around Burns Road are considered to have housed the earliest settlements in the city of Karachi, dating back to 1857.
Wealthy migrants from cities like Delhi settled in the Burns Road Area. Other migrants, ethnicities, and brotherhoods settled there, including the Punjabi Saudagaran-e-Delhi, a community of Punjabi Muslims who settled largely in the old parts of Delhi. Many of the food vendors trace their family linkage to this community of Muslims, and have wider associations with migrants from India. Some believe that food vendors started gathering on the road when migrants wanted to have the same culinary experiences they did in India.
This street has seen a lot of political turmoil and uncertainty, which affected how restaurants and vendors conducted their businesses, from Ayub’s 1964-65 campaign against Ms. Fatima Jinnah to the rise of the Muttahida Qaumi Movement Party (MQM). Even in times of instability, people would gather here for the comfort of great food, and a strong sense of community in the face of changing times. And at times in broad daylight, the structures of the old buildings on Burns Road, and the uniquely crafted balconies feel like the ghosts of a bustling, cosmopolitan era of Karachi.
The Plazas and Balconies of Burns Road
This place is known for its diverse, yet humble food that caters to a range of tastes and pockets. Customers visit late into the night, and Burns Road is perhaps best enjoyed with an empty stomach and an open mind. While people have their favorite restaurants, it is recommended to experiment with new tastes and make new favorites. The following are some of the oldest institutions on the street, which have been serving delicious signature dishes for generations.
Fresco Bakery on a Busy Day
The legendary “Pakistani Dil Bahar Dahi Baray”, which stands on Burns Road since the fifties, remains a taste apart in terms of snacks. Dahi Baray are fried lentil dumplings covered in yogurt, tamarind paste, with an assortment of vegetables and spices. Dil Bahar has been run by the same family since the 1950s, and are famous for their homemade, timelessly classic Dahi Baray, with a Twelve-Spice topping.
Dil Bahar Dahi Baray
Initially, the yogurt was made in a clay pot (which is now showcased as a decorative piece outside the shop), but even today, the Dahi Baras carry the same zesty, explosive taste it has had for as long as people can remember.
Next up is the barbecue, a popular favorite for Pakistanis. One of the best places in Burns Road to get a succulent and spicy barbecue is “Waheed Kebab”. “Waheed Kebab” was started by a family from Dehli who had a small handcart in 1951 and opened a shop in 1961. They initially started cooking kebabs, chicken, and later added gravy-based dishes.
The secret behind Waheed Kebab’s success is the uniquely crafted recipe of the spices in the marinade, which the family achieved through extensive experimentation. Generations of customers arrive to eat their barbecue, and currently the chefs are still trying out new spices and meat cuts.
“Café Lazeez” has equally made a name for itself due to its signature savory dishes, especially karahi gosht (meat curry). Another family-run business that started in 1970, Café Lazeez became famous for its traditional seasoning and cooking methods, allowing the meat and the ghee (clarified butter) to speak for itself. They are also famous for their kata-kat, meat offal cooked to fine mince on a large griddle, which is named after the signature sound the meat makes when spatulas cut it to pieces.
Kata-Kat Being Made
Café Lazeez runs a busy shift all day, serving the Subcontinent equivalent of comfort food to loyal customers. They too believe that it is not just the act of cooking that keeps customers coming, but the commitment to using the best ingredients which would leave long-lasting impressions on the customer’s taste palette.
Cafe Lazeez's Karai Gosht
“Malik Hotel”, harks back to the royal kitchens of the Mughal era, serving what is arguably the best Nihari available in the city. A Nihari is a slow-cooked stew of the best cuts of meat, bone, fat, aromatic greens, and spices. The dish was once said to have healing properties for the body and the soul. Making Nihari is painstaking work which requires the chef’s intuition more than anything else.
A Plate of Malik Nihari
The owner and head chef of the restaurant is proud of his heritage, which he traces to his ancestor who was dubbed ‘Malik’ by Emperor Shah Jehan himself. The current chef uses the best spices and meat cuts, cooking them in traditional ghee according to an old family recipe. He happily declares his food, which also includes curry and leg stew (payas), as the best in the Subcontinent.
For dessert, the “Delhi Rabri House” provides traditional dishes unmatched in their balanced sweetness and succulence. It has been operating since 1964, and no matter what dish visitors enjoy the most, they must try the signature Rabri dish. Rabri is a slow-heated milk dessert made using sweetened home milk and clotted cream, which is gooey, sticky, but very light in flavor. Dehli Rabri House’s recipe is so unique that film stars, politicians, dignitaries, and clerics used to venture to this shop specifically, to satisfy their sweet-tooth.
Dehli Rabri House Rabri with Pistachios
This is by no means an exhaustive list of the history, the cuisine, and the social groups which comprise this iconic street. Other signature dishes include the “Burns Road ke Bun Kebab”, a small burger made of mince and lentils which packs a mighty punch with its unforgettable sauce, and the delectable snacks and treats from the historic Fresco bakery.
Burns Road Bun Kebab
The street has seen much evolution and change, but restaurants continue to innovate and bring more customers. They are proud of their food, their family, and their promise as a community to serve good quality food to everyone who visits. So if one wishes to have a historic, as well as mouth-watering experience in Karachi, Burns Roads is a place that cannot be missed.
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