Written by: Haroon Shuaib
Posted on: July 26, 2021 | 
| 中文
Pond at Wadi-e-Pir Ibrahim (photo credits to Aziz Ahmed Jamali)
In one of his articles, Salman Rashid, Pakistan's most widely-travelled travel writer, recounts a folklore that his host in Khuzdar district of Balochistan narrated when Rashid expressed his embarrassment in response to the man’s hospitality excesses. As the story goes, there was once a Baloch whose door was forever open for guests. His wife on the other hand always lamented the drain on their larder. One day when her husband asked for a stranger to be fed, she refused. She gave him food just enough, so he could either feed himself or his visitor. The following morning, the wife saw three men leaving the house. Mystified, she asked her husband what the deal was and his response changed her attitude forever. He confirmed that there was just one guest. The others were that guest’s naseeb (predestined lot), and an azmaish (calamity) that was to befall their household. This story of legendry Balochi hospitality has stayed with me since I first read it.
The mountains of Khuzdar (photo credits to Tahir Khan Kayani)
Khuzdar, capital city of Khuzdar district, shares its borders with Lasbela, Awaran, Kharan, Kalat, Bolan, and Jhal Magsi districts of Balochistan and Larkana and Naushahro Feroze districts of Sindh province. In history, Khuzdar has been referred by other names such as Tooran, Kohyar, Qazdar, and as Jhalawan, which means Lowland. The original inhabitants of Jhalawan called it Kohiar. It appears as Chiryan on the 1680 William Baffin, and as Kordar on the 1715 H. Moll geographer maps of India. According to some historians, the word Khuzdar has been derived from Persian words ‘Qaz’ and ‘Dar’, meaning ‘place of silk’. Another account suggests that it is a derivative of ‘Khuz’, an Arabic word which means ‘take firmly’ and ‘Dar’, which means ‘place’. Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai, the greatest Sufi saint and poet of Sindh of the 16th century, who travelled through this region, praised the beauty of Khuzdar in ‘Shah Jo Risalo’ (Shah’s Magazine).
Having remained under the influence of the ruling dynasties of Persia, Tooranians of Central Asia, Mauryran of India, and the Brahmans of Sindh, the region was under Arab rule from 7th century till the 10th century. According to Ibn-e-Hawqal Al Baghdadi, an Arab writer, geographer, and chronicler, the beautiful city of Khuzdar was located on the bank of a river. As the Arab power waned, Khuzdar was conquered by Ghaznavid dynasty.
Water reservoir and its tributaries - Gup Shah Lake Notani, Khuzdar (photo credits to Tahir Khan Kayani)
By the 17th century Khuzdar was capital of Jhalawan Kingdom, but later was annexed to the Khanate of Kalat. Once the British took control of the subcontinent, they appointed a political agent at Khuzdar in 1903. After 1947, the area acceded to Pakistan. From 1952 to 1955, Khuzdar was designated as the divisional headquarters of the Balochistan States Union. In 1955, Khuzdar was made the capital of Kalat Division, but in 1974 it was separated to establish a new district.
Khuzdar is at the apex of a narrow valley. Despite its altitude, Khuzdar has an arid climate with low and erratic rainfall. The district has a population of only a little over 800,000 according to 2017 census. Major tribes in the district are Bizenjo, Jattak, Hasni, Nausherwani, Zehri, Mengal, Zarakzai, Ahmadzai, and Kurd. Khuzdar remains the largest Brahui speaking district in Balochistan, with a total area of 43261 square km.
The district is subdivided into four tehsils: Khuzdar, Zehri, Naal and Wadh. The city of Khuzdar is situated on the National Highway linking Pakistan, Iran and Turkey. Under the China-Pakistan-Economic-Corridor, construction work for the upgradation of Khuzdar-Quetta-Chaman Section (N-25) and Khuzdar-Basima Road (N-30) is underway. The district has limited agriculture and small quantities of crops such as rice, wheat, cotton, mango, and dates are grown here. The region has heavy deposits of natural resources like barite, chromite onyx among others.
Crop field at Khuzdar (photo credits to Aziz Ahmed Jamali)
As a testimony to its historic and military significance, one can find ruins of four forts in Khuzdar. Kohiar Fort is located on a hilltop in Obhan, and was constructed by the Sassanid governors of Sindh. The entire city of Khuzdar was visible from this fort. Halwai Peak Fort overlooked the Halwai valley, and was destroyed by an earthquake. A new fort was built to protect the city in the present day Shahi Bagh area. After the death of Mir Nasir Khan II, his brother Mir Khudadad Khan overtook the Khanship of Kalat, and he built the Khudadad Khan Fort. The surroundings were beautified with gardens and orchards.
Moola valley is a 1237 meter long bow-shaped region, 80 km away from Khuzdar. It is named after the Moola River, which flows through the length of the valley. Moola Pass is the ancient trade and military route between Khuzdar, Kachhi and Gandawah plains. Moola River, the largest river of the region, flows throughout the year. The valley is home to several mountain ranges, salt mines, lakes, and waterfalls. This is the same route that was used by the armies of Craterus, a general of Alexander the Great in 325 BC, and the British General Wilshire in 1839. Moola Chotok, a ravine with natural waterfalls, is a geological wonder and fast becoming a prominent touristic attraction. Moola Chotok is approximately 80 km northeast of Khuzdar city, and the tourists who come here describe it as a hidden paradise. Emerald green pond at Wadi-e-Pir Ibrahim and cascading Ozano waterfalls at Karkh, present a surreal view against the parched and sunbaked backdrop.
Moola Waterfalls, Khuzdar (photo credits to Aziz Ahmed Jamali)
Any account about Khuzdar would not be complete without the mention of famous Persian poet Dukhtar-e-Khuzdar (Daughter of Khuzdar), ‘Rabia Khuzdari,’ of the 10th century. She was contemporaneous with the poet Rodkey. Today both are known as pioneers of Persian poetry. According to some records, Rabia Khuzdari was the daughter of the Ameer (Ruler) of Khuzdar, named Kaab. When she was young, she fell in love with a slave named Bakhtas. Her brother Hasil Khan learned about her love, and killed both Rabia and Bakhtas, but their story remains a subject of many books and literature to date.
Khuzdar also has many archeological sites and mounds excavated over time, and items belonging to early Chalcolithic and Bronze Age have been recovered including mud and stone structures, pottery, weapons, jewelry and figurines. Khuzdar district also has numerous historical sites such as Damb-e-Jhakkra, Mishri Bhutt, Mound of Aali Doda, Baint of Pir Lakha, Chimni Bhutt and Pattham Baint. A prominent religious scholar, author of dozens of religious books and the first translator of Holy Quran in Brahui language Maulana Mohammad Umar Deen Puri, is buried in the Baint Narr, which is the entrance of Moola valley of Khuzdar. He also built a mosque which is still functional for prayers. Other prominent places in Khuzdar district are Hazar Ganji, Gresha, Lakroian, Baghbana, Band-e-Chakki, Karkh, Zeedi, Khorri, Gaaj, Chakoo, Wadh, and Oar Nach.
Local kids photographed at Khuzdar (photo credits to Aziz Ahmed Jamali)
Khuzdar is a land of legends and valiance. It has evolved through various times, reigns, and influences, yet its people hold on to the values of self-sufficiency, free will and generosity.
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