Written by: Haroon Shuaib
Posted on: February 19, 2020 | 
| 中文
Quetta Surrounded by Mountains (photo credits to Native Pakistan)
“A city isn't so unlike a person. They both have the marks to show they have many stories to tell. They see many faces. They tear things down and make new again.” – Rasmenia Massoud.
Massoud obviously wasn’t talking about Quetta, an oasis-like city in the heart of the rugged Balochistan province of Pakistan, unknown to even an avid traveler such as herself. Yet this statement holds true for Quetta as much as so many other cities in the world that came into being through a constantly shifting history, find their spirits through the people who made them homes, and grow organically while surviving the tests of times.
Quetta is home to over a dozen languages, ethnicities, and cultures, each very different from each other and yet important parts of the whole. They are different in their manner, their occupations, architecture and even their facial features, yet Quetta proudly embraces all. The city is home to Pashtuns, Brahuis and Balochis. One can also find Punjabis, Urdu-speaking Mohajirs, Sindhis, Hazaras, Seraikis, Uzbeks, Tajiks, Turkomen Iranians, and even Kurds and Arabs.
A Bazaar in Quetta (photo credits to Kashif Kamal)
One can only get the true feel of the city by strolling through the narrow winding lanes of the ever buzzing colourful Liaquat Bazzar, the biggest retail bazaar in the city for women. Or, one can sit at a tea stall of the almost surreal Kandahari Bazzar and sip on traditional Kehwa among the different gadget shops. Afterwards, one can take a promenade on the upscale M. A. Jinnah Road, a dreamy boulevard lined with pine trees.
A Shop Owner Drinking Kehwa (photo credits to Kashif Kamal)
It is widely believed that the city’s name ‘Quetta’ is derived from the Pashto word "Kwatta", which means “Fort”. One would think that the city got its name due to a fort surrounding it like most historical cities, but that is not true. The name came about due to the spectral, dark, craggy mountains that surround the city on all sides, like the dominating walls of a fort. Chiltan, Zarghun and Koh-e-Murdar peaks form a brooding yet panoramic ring around the town.
A Juniper Tree near Quetta (photo credits to Aijaz Hussain)
Excavations in the Quetta valley have proved that humans have lived there since pre-historical times. It was Quetta’s strategic location that established this city as a trading thoroughfare through recorded history. The city was a natural stop over for traders from ancient times. With its proximity to the borders of Iran and Afghanistan, it was on the trade route of caravans coming from mainland subcontinent and served as the gateway to the shores of Arabian Sea. Consequently, Quetta has always enjoyed the influx of influences from far and wide.
Quetta in the 1920's (photo credits to Vintage Pakistan) -
Owing to its strategic importance, Quetta was always considered a prized post for the ambitious. The first record of Quetta is from 11th century CE, when it was captured by Sultan Mahmud Ghaznavi during his invasion of South Asia. In 1543, Mughal Emperor Humayun came to Quetta en route to Safavid Persia, leaving his son and future Mughal emperor Akbar there. From 1709 to 1747, the region became a part of the Afghan Hotak dynasty until Ahmed Shah Durrani conquered it as a part of the Durrani Empire.
The first Europeans visited Quetta in 1828 and described it as a mud-walled fort surrounded by three hundred mud houses. In 1856, British General John Jacob had urged his government to occupy Quetta because of its strategic importance on the western frontier, but it wasn’t until 1876 that Quetta was incorporated into British India. Quetta had to rebuild itself when the city was left decimated by an earthquake in 1935. According to some accounts, the tremors killed almost 40,000 people. By this time, Quetta had developed into a bustling city, and was known as "Little London".
Archival Footage of the 1935 Earthquake in Quetta (photo credits to Vintage Pakistan)
Despite the fact that the city is at an average elevation of 1,680 meters (5,510 feet) above sea level, it still gets a long stifling winter spell and suffers from extreme water scarcity. Its numerous fruit orchards and the large variety of dried fruit products stubbornly weather each natural challenge. The climate is dry, temperate and suitable for valley cultivation of grapes, peaches, plums, apricots, apples, almonds, melons, pears, cherries and pomegranates. Wheat, barley, and maize are common crops, while juniper and pistachio forests are aplenty. Livestock farming and open pasture herding is also quite widespread among the people there. Felts, rugs, embroidery, mirrorwork on fabrics, and copper vessels are local handicrafts that are widely marketed in the country and abroad.
A Balochi Dry Fruit Shop (photo credits to TrekEarth)
Quetta is also a meat-lover’s paradise, carrying dishes with legacies from Persia and Central Asia. Since the town was frequented by trade caravans, and Balochistan has been historically inhabited by nomadic people, the food is also indicative of a more basic lifestyle. Those interested in their specialties, should not miss eating “Sajji”, chicken, lamb or goat stuffed with rice and eggs, and roasted around a burning fire. Rosh is another local delicacy, prepared by pressure cooking a big chunk of meat in animal fat with only salt and pepper seasoning.
Sajji Roasting (photo credits to Dawn)
Just like the diversity of its human inhabitants, Quetta is also extremely diverse in its wildlife. Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park, which is about 20 kilometers from Quetta, is home to five distinct kinds of Markhor (wild sheep), wolves, striped hyena, hares, wild cats and porcupines. The park also has a large number of birds that include partridge, warblers, falcons, blue rock pigeon, golden eagle, sparrow, hawks, falcons and vultures. There are 225 species of plants in the park, including juniper, wild olive, wild ash, almond, fig, barberry and wild cherry.
A Herd of Chiltan Markhor (photo credits to Tech Urdu)
Modern day Quetta is the sixth largest city in the country, with a population of 1.001 million. The city has three major public sector universities, University of Balochistan, Sardar Bahadur Khan Women's University, and Balochistan University of Information Technology, Engineering and Management Sciences (BUITEMS) besides Bolan University of Medical and Health Sciences. Public stadiums include Shaheed Nauroz Stadium as the largest in the city, along with Ayub National Stadium for football and cricket, and Bugti Stadium for cricket exclusively. Many small parks and recreational areas are found in the city, and recent times have also seen a surge of modern shopping malls and outlets. Many big and small hospitals in Quetta provide health facilities to not only the local population of the city but also for people from other parts of the province. An international airport and good network of railway and highways connects Quetta to every other part of the country.
Hazarganji-Chiltan Wildlife Park (photo credits to Saffy H)
With China Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC) ushering in a new era of prosperity, Quetta is well positioned to embrace yet another period of development in its already rich and long history.
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