Written by: Mahnaz Shujrah
Posted on: October 01, 2021 | 
| 中文
The team members on the top of the peak. Qasim Shah, Saba Haleem, Muhammad Ateeque, Hamza Farooq and Ahmed Qazi (L-R)
Saba Haleem made history on September 2nd, 2021, when she became the first Pakistan woman to summit Gondogoro Peak in Skardu, Pakistan. During the entire climb, she was unaware that she would be setting a record; it was only after she reached the top that she realized what she had accomplished.
Saba is the president of LUMS Adventure Society (LAS), a student-led organization at Lahore University of Management Sciences (LUMS). She reflects on how she has always been an adventure enthusiast, and her father encouraged her to join LAS. It was through LAS that she discovered her passion, and since then has trekked mountain passes, including Lupghar Pir and Shimshal, along with base camp expeditions, such as Nanga Parbat and Haramosh. Physical fitness and training are very important before attempting a summit, so the preceding winter the team underwent practical training.
On the way to Gondogoro Peak
Gondorgo Peak (5650 meters) lies in the neighborhood of K2, the second highest peak in the world. It is also surrounded by Broad Peak, Masherbrum and Laila Peak. A group of eight students departed from LUMS, consisting of five boys and three girls, however, only five members were able to reach the summit, with Saba Haleem being the only female student.
LUMS Adventure Society (LAS)'s expedition team with the tour guide Hatim Ali in Skardu
Saba talks about how multiple factors are involved in such a feat:
“Before the summit we took a rest day because it started to snow. When the actual climbing started, it was more difficult than I had expected. To make matters worse, the weather was not cooperating, a critical factor in the success of such an endeavor. We began the climb at 3am. Three members of the team lagged behind, but we could not afford to slow down or wait, because there is a very small window to reach the summit. They had no option but to turn back. The rest of us carried on and were met with an ice wall, approximately 100 meters from the top. Rappelling is a time-consuming process, and it can only be done one by one. The ice breaks and slips, and you must be careful because your performance affects others and vice versa. It was around 1:30 pm when we reached the top. I couldn’t feel my legs, and I remember I fell to my knees, partly out of gratitude and partly from exhaustion. It was an immensely emotional moment for me. We did not get very much time to take it all in, since our team had to return to the base camp, which we did around 7 pm of the same day.”
A view from Gondogoro Peak
Saba talked about how her initial motivation was to be a source of inspiration for her juniors. “No girl in LAS has ever summitted a peak, so I wanted to set that example. I believe when you see someone you can relate to, it makes you think you can do it too.” However, she went on to clarify that her ambition has had its fair number of challenges. “It was never easy for me to get permission. Although my family and friends have supported me, that doesn’t mean I didn’t have to work twice as hard to convince them.”
Saba Haleem with famous mountaineer Rozi Ali, who was their tour guide
Teamwork has a very crucial role in mountain climbing. The students were accompanied by expert mountain guides Hatim Ali, Yousaf bhai and Rozi Ali, who was also a mentor for the late Ali Saddpara. Saba declared that “I couldn’t have done it without them. And the same holds true for everyone else.” On the other hand, she also emphasized the role of self-awareness and self-esteem: “You really must trust yourself and believe in yourself. At the end of the day, you must fight your mind. If you feel you can’t do it, you won’t be able to.”
Saba Haleem says that mountaineering is a physical as well as mental adventure
It has been a life changing experience for Saba: “I feel more confident. Now I think if I want to do something, there’s always a way of doing it. Previously I often underestimated myself. This trip changed that.” She realizes that there are so many people doing incredible things, but often get overlooked. “We need to recognize people’s achievements, for it holds the power to change their lives.”
The team with Hatim Ali and Rozi Ali, the tour guides
Her message to the young women of Pakistan: “Even though a lot of things seem impossible, and we may not always have support, if you really want something, strive for it wholeheartedly. God will help you achieve it. Getting permission and other stuff isn’t easy, but it’s also not impossible. Keep on trying and praying for your dreams.”
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