Written by: Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro
Posted on: October 14, 2024 | 
Devri of Sant Satramdas in Shikarpur. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
Sant Starm Dham (SSD), adjacent to Chabutra Chowk in Shikarpur, is a newly built Hindu religious sanctuary. Formerly known as Mata Wari Dharamshala, this sacred site holds deep significance within the local Hindu community. Sant Satram Dham serves as a spiritual center and a revered place of devotion based on the teachings of Sant Satramdas, a highly esteemed spiritual leader. The site is known for its serene atmosphere and is sacred for pilgrims and devotees seeking spiritual solace.
Bhai Moolram is believed to have established Mata Wari Dharamshala in Shikarpur in the latter part of the eighteenth century. According to Lokram Dodeja (1993:193), the author of Munjho Watan Munhinja Manhoon, Bhai Moolram hailed from the family of Bhai Ranjhan Mal, who was the grandson of Hasanand of Rohri. It is believed that Guru Gobind Singh granted Bhai Ranjhan Mal the Parwana (decree) of Masand (religious preacher and tithe collector). The descendants of Bhai Ranjhan Mal attained significant power and influence, establishing Darbars in Khairpur and Shikarpur. Bhai Moolram initially founded a darbar in Khairpur, which he later transferred to Gurpota, particularly Gurpat Prasad, at the latter's request. Tehalram Asudomal (1932: 39) mentioned in Sindh Ja Sant that Bawa Gurpat was Gurpoto and belonged to the Bedi clan. I have visited this darbar, which is situated in the Godhu Shah Mohalla of Khairpur. It is variously known as Gurpota Darbar, Godhu Shah Darbar, and Nangan Wari Darbar. It is one of the most beautiful darbars in Khairpur. In this context, the term Nanga (naked) pertains to Udasi ascetics who traditionally wore loincloths, hence earning the name Nanga (not fully naked, but rather half-naked Udasi ascetics).
Sant Satram Dham, Shikarpur. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The Gurpota darbar in Khairpur is known for its distinctive features, such as mural paintings, woodwork, and jharokhas, which reflect the opulence and affluence of the builder. The main wooden gate of the darbar depicts Sikh Gurus. The door has two shutters, each with twelve panels depicting the Sikh Gurus, which have never been vandalized by neighboring Muslims. The prominent wood carvings at this darbar include images of Baba Guru Nanak with two of his companions, Bhai Bala and Bhai Mardana. Such ornately carved doors showing images of Gurus are not found in any other darbar in Khairpur. The main gate opens to the courtyard of the darbar, which further leads to the main hall where a marble murti (image) of Baba Sri Chand and the Guru Granth Sahib are placed. The wooden ceiling of the hall is ornately carved. The Udasi darbars in Khairpur town have wooden painted ceilings, a peculiarity of Sindhi darbars. Unfortunately, the Hindu community recently demolished this darbar to reconstruct it, and many fabulous pieces of art were damaged in the process.
Sant Satram Dham in Shikarpur. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
According to Lokram Dodeja, after Bhai Moolram handed this darbar to Bawa Gurpat Prasad, he established another darbar in Shikarpur. After some time, Bhai Gurpat Prasad proceeded to Hyderabad to establish a darbar there. Mata Wari Dharamshala was believed to have been handed over to Gurpota, notably to Karamjas Bedi, a descendant of Baba Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism.
Bhai Moolram settled in an orchard near Sindh Wah. He died there and was commemorated with samadhi.
After partition, a woman managed the Mata Wari Dharamshala. However, after her death, the place was abandoned and parts occupied until Sant Satram Dham was established there in 2000. When one enters Sant Satram Dham, one will notice a foundation plaque on the exterior wall of Devri. It states that it was founded on October 9, 2000, by Sain Sadhram, the present Gadisar of Devri Sahib, also known as Sant Satram Dham, which is located in Raharki village in Ghokti’s Mirpur Mathelo. This revered site, with around twenty-one Samadhis, holds a significant place in the hearts of Hindus in Sindh and beyond. The history of Sant Satram Dham dates back to its founder, Sant Khotaram, who was known for his piety and helping the poor.
Images of Sant Satramdas in Devri in Shikarpur. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
After his death, his son, Sant Satramdas, continued his father’s spiritual legacy. According to Sindh Ja Sant by Tehalram Asudomal (1932:88), Sant Satramdas was a resident of Raharki village. He was widely recognized for his soulful renditions of devotional songs. He selflessly devoted his life to serving people and spreading the message of peace, love and harmony through his devotional songs. His profound impact was evident in the large number of disciples who followed his teachings and found inspiration in his melodies. After his demise in 1910, he was succeeded by his disciple, Sant Bhagat Kanwar Ram, who continued the spiritual legacy of his spiritual master. Sant Bhagat Kanwar Ram was a Sufi singer who sang devotional songs in the temples and darbars of Sindh. He also managed the Devri Sahib or Sant Satram Dham (SSD). Unfortunately, he was killed on 1st November 1939 and was commemorated with a Samadhi at Sant Satram Dham.
The successive custodians of Sant Satram Dham, namely Sant Chandiram (d.1961), Sant Babal Bhagwandas (d.1981), and Sant Kaniya Lal (d.1990), diligently propagated the teachings of their mentor. Sain Sadhram, the current custodian, remains committed to perpetuating the spiritual legacy of a spiritual master. He has achieved global recognition, with a following that spans diverse geographic regions, including both East and West.
Sant Bhagat Kanwar Ram Hall in Sant Satram Dham, Shikarpur. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
In Sant Satram Dham (SSD) in Shikarpur are images and pictures of Sant Satramdas and his disciples. The posters of Hindu deities are seen on the walls of SSD. The images of Sant Satramdas can be seen in the Sant Bhagat Kanwar Ram hall, which is used for festivals and rituals. The central wall of the hall displays a poster showing Sant Satramdas's Devri, flanked by pictures of his Gadisars and Hindu deities. On the left is a poster showing Wadi Devri, referring to the principal Devri Sahib at Raharki village.
Image of Sant Satramdas flanked by his disciples in Sant Satram Dham. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
One can go to the room or Devri (samadhi) of Sant Satramdas from the Sant Bhagat Kanwar Ram Hall. In this devri is found Samadhis of Gurpotas, who were Mata Wari Dharamshala's custodians before partition. In this Devri, there are also images of Sant Satramdas. There are three murtis (images) in this devri. The first shows him standing. In another, he is seated on a chair. The third image is elegantly displayed within a wall nook enclosed in glass. According to Kamaldev Punjabi and Master Suneel of Shikarpur, the image of Sant Satramdas is flanked by the images of his disciples: Sant Bhagat Kanwar Ram, Sant Babal Bhagwandas, Sant Chandiram, and Sant Kaniya Lal.
Sant Stram Dham (SSD) regularly serves meals to its visitors and offers lodging for pilgrims and students preparing for competitive examinations. Apart from the religious sanctuary in Shikarpur City, there are three other religious sanctuaries of Sant Satram Dham (SSD) in Madeji, Chak and Baghreji in the Shikapur district.
The writer is an anthropologist. He has authored 16 books on Pakistan's cultural heritage and anthropology. He tweets @kalhorozulfiqar
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