Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
Posted on: October 17, 2024 | | 中文
The land of Gilgit Baltistan is a treasure trove of diversity. Few places in the world can boast of such a spellbinding range of geography and history. However, the sagas of its historical delicacies are matched duly by the ignorance surrounding them. Gilgit Baltistan does not have a solid tradition of recorded history. Most of what we get to know is via the oral tradition, which, though not uninteresting in the least, lends itself immensely to conjecture and hearsay. It is for this reason what while we may be able to claim with a certain sense of accuracy how Mohenjodaro was about five millennia ago, or how Lahore Fort came to be around; we cannot put our finger to the exactness of the tremendous, ancient forts of the region, or the process of occupation of the land by the various invading armies throughout the times. The lack of record notwithstanding, the strong oral tradition of Gilgit Baltistan, passed from generation to generation, pits the historical against the local. Therefore, it is no surprise, that in a land clouded by folklore, there are opinions of what exactly is on the rock in Kargah. You might think it’s the Buddha, as testified by foreign Buddhist dignitaries as well. But locals say it’s rather Yacthini, a female, man-eating demon, pinned to a rock by a saint.
In this article, I intend to bring to the fore, one of the most publicized, yet scarcely known monument of Gilgit: the Taj Mughal Shikari, and the historical importance it holds. First for the facts: the Taj Mughal Shikari is a monument built on an elevation of about 1000 feet in the south of the city, on the Jutial Hill. There are signboards in various parts of the city that direct you to the base of the monument. After which, it is a steep hike of about half an hour or so, bringing you to the monument. The hike is challenging and difficult, and may not be recommended for all age groups. The structure of the monument and the signboards indicate to you about the recent interest in its renovation. It was in 2022 that the previously dilapidated structure was brought to its present form, reigniting tourist interest in it. As you reach the monument, you can also treat yourself to absolutely stunning views of the Gilgit city from that height.
Now we will discuss the points of contention regarding the structure. Locals often tell you it is the oldest structure in Gilgit, which is not true. The Kargah Buddha, for one, pre-dates it. In all fairness, the Taj Mughal Shikari is about 700 years old, erected during the 13th or 14th century. But the major question then arises of what exactly is this structure. In my time in Gilgit, I have been given the possibilities of it being a Buddhist stupa, a watchtower, or a victory monument - and it’s the latter which seems the most probable. To cover up for a lack of record, the British Gazetteers are often a handy resource. But what they write about Gilgit Baltistan is often laden with gaps. However, making use of that and other local resources, I present an account of the Taj Mughal Shikari.
The last Buddhist king of Gilgit, Sri Badat, was charmingly nick-named man-eater for his brutality. The oppressed people took side with one Shamsher, who probably belonged to Skardu and is said to have introduced Shiaism into Gilgit, when he attacked Gilgit. Shamsher's successors then ruled over Gilgit, and it was in the days of his third successor, Trakhan (also known as Torra Khan), that the area was invaded by Taj Mughal. The exact names and succession of the rulers of Gilgit, of course, is also subject to controversy, as we will see in the next episode of this article. Taj Mughal subscribed to Ismailism, and is said to have come from Badakhshan. Trakhan was released by the invader, on the condition that we would accept the religious beliefs of the invaders and paid a yearly tribute. Taj Mughal then proceeded to Hunza, and reinstated its ruler after imposing the exact conditions. When Trakhan’s son refused to pay the tribute to Taj Mughal, the latter again attacked Gilgit, but was defeated this time.
It is during the initial invasion of Taj Mughal of Gilgit that his soldiers build the Victory Monument, the Taj Mughal Shikari, as an emblem of his victory over the area. It is important to note that the exact timeline of this event is a point of contention. While the Gazetteer and Military Report of the Gilgit Agency, 1927, claims this event to have happened in the 16th century, local history always records the invasion to have occurred at least three or four centuries preceding that. Hence, the age of the Taj Mughal Shikari has to be adjusted according to the different versions of history.
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