Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
Posted on: August 30, 2024 | 
| 中文
The Fort in the Stone City, Tashkurgan
While international travel is often compromised due to excessive visa restrictions the world over, arrangements between neighboring countries to facilitate mutual tourism and trade are a welcome departure from the throes of documentation. To this effect, Pakistan and China signed a protocol agreement in 1985 for the opening of Pakistan-China Khunjerab Border for the purpose of trade and tourism. According to this arrangement, the Gilgit Baltistan and Xinjiang government were authorized to issue visa-free border passes to their people to cross the international border. Domicile holders of Gilgit-Baltistan, and officials working in the Gilgit Baltistan government can avail this facility to go to Xinjiang. Making use of the opportunity, I crossed the border to see the western part of China.
Pamiri Tajik elders of Tashkurgan with their traditional hats (Photo by unusualtraveler.com)
After you cross the border, and are done through the stringent checking procedures, for the next two hours one is treated with views of azure lakes and behemoth mountains, and a terrain over-run by marmots and yaks. The first town on the Chinese side is Tashkurgan, also the place where the immigration process takes place. Tashkurgan, a clean and a sleepy town, is a welcome respite from the bustle of crowded metropolises. Interestingly, the ownership of the place was contentious between Pakistan and China. In 1963, Pakistan and China signed the Sino-Pak agreement, establishing the current borders between the countries, and as part of this agreement, Pakistan ceded the Tashkurgan region to China. Today, Tashkurgan is a county-level city in the Kashgar Prefecture of Xinjiang, but often first-degree relationships between the people of Hunza and Tashkurgan are not uncommon.
A traditional room in Tashkurgan
A notable point on the ancient Silk route that has grabbed the attention of many historians, Tashkurgan’s culture has always been a pothole of various influences. Currently, it is dominated by the Tajik people, and the cultural and linguistic distinction of the place is palpable. There is quite a lot to see in this town, with most of the attractions being clamped nearby. There are the majestic Pamir Mountains, often tagged as the Roof of the World, the high-altitude grasslands that carry a golden sheen, and the culture and history that can be appreciated in the Tajik village and museum. However, one attraction that Tashkurgan is primarily known for is the ancient Stone City.
The Flying Eagle monument in the center of Tashkurgan.
Interestingly, the name Tashkurgan is a Ughyur word, which means Stone City, christened so because of the ancient fortress that stands in the heart of the city. While the town itself is one of the highest towns of the world, the Stone City stands at an imposing height of 3700 meters. It is an antediluvian structure, and carries impressions of Han, Tang and Qing dynasties; though what we see currently are mostly only the ruins of the latter. Strategically placed on the ancient trade route, the Stone City controlled the passage of goods between China and Central Asia, doubling up as a military stronghold. Originally divided into an outer and an inner city, not much can easily be distinguished anymore because of the collapse of the structures. Some walls, battlements, towers, parapets and murals can still be found at places. The guides at the venue, though, keep on giving you the lost details of all the remnants of the structures. While the terms fortress and Stone City are used interchangeably, the fortress is only one aspect of the larger area, but it is the prime attraction of the tourists. The fortress itself covers an area of 1200 square meters.
Stone City, Tashkurgan
The exact timeline of the Stone City’s existence is often a point of debate, but it is easily traced back to as far as the 14th century. The construction was brought about with an amalgamation of stone, earth and wood, and the heftiness of the structure can still be appreciated. The Stone City once housed over more than 1000 residents including soldiers, merchants and artisans. Undergoing a major renovation in the 1980s, the efforts in the preservation of the place are easily appreciated on a visit. Wooden walkways have been installed in the place, and stepping on any other structure is prohibited. The numerous CCTV cameras installed in the place also ensure the implementation of these rules. There has been some destruction of the place, given the harsh climate and the passage of time, but there's still a lot to be found here with the right interest and observation.
A plaque about the Stone City
It is not only the historical treasure of Stone City to savor while visiting it, but also the views from the top are amazing: swathes of limitless grazing lands and the snowy peaks of the distant mountains. Cultural shows are held daily on the premises, where Tajik customs and choreography take the front seat to mesmerize the audience. The Stone City in Tashkurgan stands as a testament to the region’s trove of history. It has seen the rise and fall of empires, and the ebb and flow of trade along the ancient Silk Route. For those interested in the history of the region, replete with its cultural richness, it is a must visit!
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