Written by: Mahnoor Fatima
Posted on: December 04, 2020 | 
| 中文
The Wall of Jiayuguan Fortress
Although the Great Wall can be considered China’s most famous and recognizable monument, the wall does not simply end on the outskirts of Beijing. The Wall stretches out over nine cities and a variety of different climates. On the Western front of the wall lies the Jiayuguan Fort (or Jiyau Pass), which has its unique history, scenery and evolution. Located in the Gansu Province of north-central China, the site is in the narrowest part of the Jiayu valley, and at the top of Jiayu Mountain, marking the first mountain pass west of the Yellow River.
The site has many pet names including “The First and Greatest Past Under Heaven”, given to it by the governor of the Shanxi Province, Zuo Zongtang in 1873. It was seen as one of the most important military strongholds in all of China, due to its strategic location and towering presence. Those who were to be exiled from Jiayuguan called it “The Gate of Demons”, for those who were banished from there into the Gobi Desert would never be able to return alive.
The Parameter of Jiayuguan
The Great Wall at Jiayuguan was built in 1372 CE during the early Ming Dynasty, nine years before the construction of the opposite side of the Wall in Beijing. Bricks used to build the section of the Fort at Jiayuguan were made of loess soil tamped together to make a much thicker, sturdier structure that does not need water to solidify. The whole construction took over 168 years, ending in 1540 CE. The structure of the fortress was greatly improved to fight off the armies of Timur (Tamerlane), but he died of old age while leading his army to invade China.
Jiayuguan also served as a safe and accessible station for merchants on the Silk Road, located in between the historical cities of Kashgar and Dunhuang. The town and its pass were considered the edge of the civilized world, guarding the Chinese empire against enemies of the north.
A Temple Inside the Fort
Much like stories of the great pyramids, there are many legends around the construction of the Fort. One such story talks about the precision of its designer Hi Shen: he had calculated the exact number of bricks he would need to build Jiayuguan, though his overseer insisted that Hi Shen should order extra materials to be on the safe side. In turn, Hi Shen ordered one extra brick, which remained unused during the whole construction, and can still be seen on display at Jiayuguan.
The three major parts of the Great Wall of Jiayuguan are the Fort, the First Strategic Post of the Great Wall and the Overhanging Great Wall. The Fort itself is about 6 acres, with a guard tower and two dazzling entrances of dizzying sizes. Located in the center are the common grounds, which are now used for target shooting and horse riding. Stairs surround the fort premises, which take people around the perimeter of the fort while secret doors take them through each room.
The Grounds of the Fort
Marking the start of the Great Wall from this end, the First Strategic Post is about 8 km away from the Fort’s premises, following a road along an unrestored section of the wall. This post is a mound of yellow loess stone, which is believed to have been a part of a watchtower, though the walls surrounding it have disappeared completely. Legend also said that a dragon marked the path of the Great Wall of China, and that the Wall closely resembles a dragon snaking through the country, with this post as its tail. The post has not been touched for centuries, and has been broken down by natural erosion. It stands on the edge of a river cliff, making an impenetrable entrance to the Fort. Here, the mighty Qilan Mountains engulf one’s view with their sheer size and majesty.
The First Strategic Post of the Great Wall
The Overhanging Great Wall is a singular line of wall that is fully restored, branching into multiple pathways on the sides of the mountains. It is called as such because the color of the path merges with the landscape, which, from afar, looks like the wall is hanging over the mountains. Today, this branch of the wall is 750 meters long (as opposed to its original 1.5 km), and tourists take the original path to the top ridge-line. With a 400 step ascent, the walk is quite challenging, but the view of the desert with the snow-covered Qilan mountains in the backdrop, makes for a breathtaking experience.
The Overhanging Great Wall
Jiayuguan became one of the Major Historical and ‘Cultural Sites Protected at a National Level’ in 1961, and a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site in 1987, after which parts of the Fort were restored. Jiayuguan is considered as a fascinating look into ancient military architecture, and a highly underrated tourist experience. Additionally, the Great Wall Museum at the Fort showcases some of the old weapons used to guard the fort, as well as some of the older installments that are no longer in use. Tourists are advised to plan for a whole day to explore the compound, and the best time to visit it is from May-October.
A Portion of the Old Wall at the Fort Museum
The story of Jiayu Pass is an intriguing amalgamation of military history and Chinese legend. It offers a new perspective on the already rich and complex history of the Great Wall of China, by telling its story from the opposite end of the Wall. Its well-executed restoration and its importance for the study of Silk Road, has made it a relatively lesser known gem on the edge of China.
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