Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
Posted on: September 18, 2024 | 
The city of Kashgar, also known as Ka Shi, in China speaks of a world largely forgotten. Located in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region in the northwestern part of the country, the city boasts a rich historical and cultural treasures. While it may not top the go-to list of international tourists going to China, Kashgar is quite accessible if you go to China from Pakistan, crossing the Khunjerab border. Besides its easy access, Kashgar has sister city agreements with two of Pakistan’s own cities: Gilgit (my current place of posting) and Abbottabad (my hometown). A special point of reference for Pakistanis regarding Kashgar is that the city has been immortalized by our national poet, Iqbal’s verse, “Neel kay saahil se le ker tabkhaak-e-Kashgar" (from the shores of Nile to the sands of Kashgar).
The interior of the Eid Gah Mosque
And there is quite a lot of sand in Kashgar. The history of Kashgar can be traced back to at least 2000 years, with Taoist, Buddhist and Islamic influences. It was a key stop on the fabled Silk Route, serving as a major point of exchange for trade and culture, something which it carries to this day. Various empires have left their mark on the city’s scape, including but not limited to the Mongol Empire, Tang dynasty, Ming dynasty and Qing dynasty. The city is now home to about 50 million people, a blend of Uyghurs, Han Chinese and other ethnic groups.
The view of the Eid Gah Mosque from the front side
A very few cities in the world may be able to sport a culture that is as distinct and blended as that of Kashgar. The handicrafts, traditional music, and dance of Kashgar are now being publicized widely by China, given their unique culture. While the city is a mixture of Chinese, Central Asian, and Islamic influences, it is the latter that the city is most prized for. The most popular tourist destinations of the city all show Islamic influence. This includes the Old City of Kashgar, arguably the most famed site of the city with its collection of ancient teahouses, intricate architecture and bustling bazars; the tomb of Abakh Khoja, with its resemblance to Central Asian tombs; while the Eid Gah Mosque is located just opposite of the Old City of Kashgar.
The Old City of Kashgar
The Eid Gah (locally also called the Id Kah) mosque is one of the largest mosques in China, covering an area of about 17000 square meters. At any given time, it can accommodate as many as 2000 worshippers. As is true of the city itself, the mosque carries impressions of Central Asian, West Asian and, to a lesser degree, Chinese architecture, with the quintessential minarets and dome. The dome cannot be seen from the front, as it is shadowed by the entrance gate, and the three minarets carry detailed motifs and designs. What really stands out about the mosque though is its enchanting colour: the golden brick structure of the mosque makes the structure shine with glory. The mosque is open to tourists, barring prayer time. As you enter the complex after buying tickets, you enter the walkway to the main prayer hall, surrounded on both sides by trees and other structures of the mosque, which include some auxiliary buildings. On most days, the mosque remains largely empty as the tourists mostly throng the Old City on the other side of the road, or spread out in the public space outside the mosque. It is on Fridays and the festivals of Eid that the mosque really comes to life.
Prayers being offered in front of the mosque
The history of the Eid Gah Mosque is also full of trials and tribulations, like that of the city. The mosque was built in 1442, incorporating some older structures at the site. At the end of the 19th century, the older mosque was replaced by the current yellow structure, with expansions taking place to 1838. The 20th century, however, reddened the pale bricks of the mosque. In 1933, the Chinese Muslim General Ma Zhancang beheaded the Uyghur leader Timur Beg, and displayed his head on a spike in the mosque. Another Uyghur leader is said to have met the same fate. When the Uyghur unrest in China was at its peak, the mosque often remained embroiled in controversies, and the killing and jailing of its imams by various forces wasn’t unheard of. Given the controversial reality of the geopolitics of the area, much about the mosque continues to garner skepticism. The removal of the Quranic plaque, the reducing of the mosque to a mere tourist destination, the Eid celebrations at the mosque being called a propaganda drive, and the containment of the influence of the mosque have all become controversial.
The entrance walkway to the mosque
Attendance of worshippers at the mosque has been on the decline, and the current Imam of the mosque puts it down to a natural shift in the values of the people, negating any preconceived plan. For what it is worth, the mosque remains an amazing site to visit and learn about the history and architecture of the region. The mosque was renovated in 1981, with further steps being taken in 2005, and that is what maintains the mosque in its prime architectural shape. The mosque was listed as a key cultural monument in 2001, and the Chinese government has accorded special funds for its up-keep. The Eid Gah Mosque in China is a unique experience. It has survived changes, and continues to draw visitors with its myths and stories, some more credible than others.
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