Written by: Haroon Shuaib
Posted on: September 27, 2022 | 
| 中文
Gulqand
For centuries, the rose flower has been considered an icon of beauty, romance, royalty, and divinity in cultures across the globe. In ancient Greece, the rose was closely associated with the goddess Aphrodite. In the Iliad, Aphrodite protects the body of Hector using the ‘Oil of Rose’. In Christianity, the rose symbol eventually led to the creation of the rosary and other devotional prayers. Carthusians promoted the idea of sacred mysteries associated with roses and rose gardens. In European history, roses symbolized the Houses of York and Lancaster in a conflict known as, ‘the Wars of Roses’. There are accounts of rose oil being distilled for its medicinal properties in 17th century Europe. Roses remained a favored subject in western art and often appear in art, ornaments, and architectural motifs. In 1986, President Ronald Reagan signed legislation to make the rose the floral emblem of the United States. In China, roses have been cultivated for over 5,000 years with many varieties originating in the country’s southwest provinces. Roses in China have a long history dating back to the Han Dynasty, which ruled from 147 to 87 B.C. In China, roses symbolize eternal spring and longevity. In traditional Chinese medicine, roses have sweet, slightly bitter and warm properties, and are associated with the liver and spleen. Its functions are to regulate qi and reduce blood stagnation, nourish skin, and improve digestion.
A well-seasoned Gulqand
In the cosmetics industry, rose essence is known to be a rich source of vitamin C. A lotion made by mixing cucumber juice, glycerin, and rose water makes a perfect sunblock and fights acne and ailments such as eczema and psoriasis. Thin swabs of cotton dipped in rose water placed on the eyes help prevent dark circles. Rose water can also heal itchy and flaky areas of the scalp and helps increase blood flow to hair follicles. Ancient Greeks and Romans used rose petals to perfume their baths, detox their bodies, relieve anxiety, and sleep better. A natural toner for the skin, cotton dipped in rose water is considered ideal to wipe the dirt, make-up and grime, especially for those with sensitive skin. In western traditions, rose hips are also edible raw and occasionally made into jam, jelly, marmalade and soup, or brewed for tea. Rose hips are also used to produce rose hip seed oil, which is used in skin products and makeup products.
Rose petals being plucked to make Gulqand
The first Mughal emperor, Babur (1483-1530), epitomized his love for roses in Tuzk-e-Babri (Babar’s Autobiography), 'My heart, like the bud of the red, red rose, lies fold within the fold – aflame; would the breath of even myriad springs, blow my heart's bud to a rose?'. His grandson, Emperor Akbar the Great, who was a vegetarian three times a week, was known to nourish the produce in his kitchen garden with rose water so that vegetables would be fragrant when cooked. ‘It (rose) restores broken hearts and brings back withered souls’, wrote the Mughal Emperor Jahangir, about the essence of roses in his memoir. It was actually the empress Nur Jahan’s association with roses that is significant to the food history of the Mughal Dynasty. Widowed at the age of 35 years, Nur Jahan was a Persian refugee with humble beginnings till she married Emperor Jahangir. Nur Jahan, born Mehr-un-Nissa, was the most powerful woman in the Mughal empire at a time when women rarely occupied public space. She was the first woman to legislate, determine political policies, and have coins minted in her name. Amongst her many accomplishments, she is also credited with the invention of rose oil. She introduced the distilling of roses to produce attar (perfume), and add its flavor to sherbet, a refreshing drink made by combining rose essence and cold water, and the making of ‘Gulqand’, a sweet preserve or a form of jam of rose petals to be used in traditional Mughal desserts.
A Mughal Princes' miniature painting where she is seen enjoying the fragrance of a rose
Gulqand is a term derived from the Persian words, ‘Gul’ (rose), and ‘Qand’ (sugar). Historically prepared with Damask roses, it is also made with other common types of roses used including China rose, French rose, and Cabbage rose. Gulqand soon gained popularity in court and common culture as an ideal ingredient to beat the summer heat, for it possess cooling properties. Gulqand’s popularity led to its use wide use in Unani, Ayurvedic, and Persian medical practices to help with bodily imbalances.
Making Gulqand at home is easy. Gently pluck some rose petals, wash them thoroughly, and pat dry them before placing them in an airtight glass jar. Layer with a bit of sugar, again with petals, and then sugar, followed again by rose petals. Put the jar in the sun for three weeks and mix the contents of the jar with a wooden stick every alternate day, till it becomes a thick, concentrated jam, high in fragrance, taste, and aroma. Once ready, sprinkle it with some crushed cardamom, aniseed, or any other aromatic ingredient. One can use honey or jaggery instead of sugar to make a healthier version. Slow cooking in sun enhances Gulqand’s magical properties. It is recommended to store Gulqand in an airtight container in the refrigerator. This way it can last for months.
Dried rose petals and sugar lumps
Time-honored traditional medicine practitioners believe that Gulqand helps relieve headache, lethargy, fatigue, and prevents constipation, bloating, mouth ulcers, menstrual complications, acne marks and irregularity in sleep. People facing acidity are recommended to take one tablespoon of Gulqand at least twice a day. With its natural cooling properties, Gulqand is to be consumed with milk at night for a restful sleep. During the days, it can be mixed with water and sipped throughout the day to beat inflammation. Gulqand strengthens hair follicles and boosts hair growth. A tablespoon of sun-cooked Gulqand, first thing in the morning or after meals, is recommended for better digestion and to get rid of sweet cravings. Gulqand has no fats, so it is a preferable option for those looking to lose weight. Rich in carbohydrates, it keeps one energized while lowering frequent snacks and sugar cravings. Generally, the side effects of Gulqand are negligible but people with diabetes should avoid consuming it as it contains high sugar.
In regions where mercury tends to rise considerably during summer, nose bleeding is quite common in kids and adults. Gulqand is known to be one of the best home remedies to treat a bleeding nose, hence mothers and grandmothers made sure that kids had one tablespoon of Gulqand with milk daily during summer. It also prevents excessive perspiration, thereby reducing the foul body smell. Its antimicrobial properties inhibit the accumulation of bacteria that lead to foul body odor. In culinary traditions, Gulqand can instantly amp up the taste of any dessert. ‘Kheer’, a rice-milk pudding is one of the most loved desserts in Pakistan. Kheer is cooked with milk, rice, sugar, and dry fruits. Adding Gulqand and a few drops of rose essence to this rich, creamy, and delicious pudding adds an extra hint of surprise flavor. A ‘Badam aur Gulqand Kulfi’ (almond and Gulqand ice cream) is also a must try. ‘Aam aur Gulkand ki Chutney’ (Mango-Gulqand dip), which has the sour raw mango paired with the sweet Gulqand is a regular feature of a South Indian meal. Gulqand can also be used to add an extra buzz to the regular lassi (curd drink), ‘Badam Thandai’ (almond milkshake), or Shikanjabin (lemonade). Traditionally, communities across South East Asia savor a serving of Gulqand, wrapped in a ‘Paan’ (betel leaf) along with betelnut shavings, aniseed and cardamom as a mouth freshener after a hearty meal, and consider it excellent for digestion, absorption of nutrients, and as a rich source of iron.
Gulqand Kheer
The romance of rose is far from fading any time soon, and Gulqand is definitely another good reason to keep this fascinating obsession alive. After all, ‘a rose by any other name would smell as sweet’.
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