Written by: Sadaf Shahzad
Posted on: May 05, 2021 | 
| 中文
The Guilded Domes of Sunehri Masjid
It is not uncommon for many historical buildings to be made and repurposed, to fit the needs of the times and the people in power. These sites often bring together histories, stories and personalities to create a fascinating if not frustrating urban dilemma. Within the historic city of Lahore, the Sunehri Masjid or ‘Golden Mosque’ is a building that has seen many transformations, and continues to change in the present era. It is located at the junction of Kaisara Bazaar and Kuch Chabakswaran, just off the Kashmiri Bazaar in the Walled City, amid a street packed with cars, shops and people.
Unlike many of the beautiful and iconic mosques of Lahore, Sunehri Masjid was built during the decline of the Mughal Empire in 1753, twelve years before the Sikhs invaded the city. It was made by Nawab Bukhari Khan, who was Lahore’s deputy governor during the reign of Muhammad Shah (1719-1748). At the time, local Hindu and Sikh businessmen and the religious Muslim community objected to the construction of a mosque in what was already a tight-knit and congested part of the Walled City. The ‘mullahs (men versed in Islamic text and law)’ dubbed this decision as un-Islamic and against the community’s wishes.
A Worshipper Saying His Prayers Inside
Ever the diplomat, Nawab Bukhari, found a solution that appeased the disgruntled parties. The Nawab promised that the traders would not have to pay donations to the mosque, and that there would be space on the ground floor for shops to operate. Also, the building itself was small and meant to be constructed on a vacant piece of land, which would not interrupt the bazaar’s daily business. Once the traders were satisfied, the Nawab asked them to convince the mullahs to issue a ‘fatwa (religious decree)’ welcoming the creation of the mosque.
While the arrival of the Sikhs in 1765, and Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s conquest of the city in 1799 led to relative stability in the city, many local strongmen frequently took over Mughal-era buildings for their administrative purposes. A Sikh priest and a group of soldiers took over the mosque, complaining that the call to prayer (‘Azaan’) was too loud for the local residents. The Maharaja consented, and for a brief period, the mosque was converted into a gurdwara named ‘Chota Sunehri Gurdwara’.
The Mosque and Ablution Pond
During the height of the Maharaja’s power in 1820, his foreign minister and trusted aid Fakir Azizuddin, pleaded with the Maharaja to restore the mosque on the insistence of the local community. Ranjit Singh agreed, on the condition that the call to prayer would be kept at a low volume, and the shopkeepers’ rent would go towards the empire, not the mosque. And at times, the Muslims allowed the Sikhs to use portions of the mosque for special occasions.
The architecture and design of the mosque are quite lovely, with an interesting amalgamation of Hindu, Sikh and Muslim motifs. Set on a plinth of 11ft, it has the traditional spacious courtyard and ablution pond typical of Islamic design. However, its characteristically bulbous domes and pillars with lotus configurations are examples of Hindu-Sikh designs embedded in the mosque.
The Mosque and its Raised Plinth During the 1950s
Inside, the walls and roof are delicately painted with fresco flowers and patterns. Experts believe that the constant chaos and bloodshed that resulted from the Afghan and Sikh invasions, prevented highly skilled artisans from being able to add designs as breathtaking as those in the Wazir Khan Mosque or Badshahi Mosque. They are still largely well-preserved, but any modifications done by the Sikhs inside are no longer visible.
Some of the Original Fresco Work Inside the Mosque
After a long period of decay and neglect during the British era and Post-Partition at the hands of the Auqaf Department, the Sunehri Mosque is one of the latest monuments to undergo restoration processes. Work began in 2011, after the US ambassador pledged $35,000 for conservation. The domes were once again gilded, new marble flooring was added and the minarets were rebuilt to restore the mosque to its former glory. However, while there has been some progress, the fresco work has yet to be fully restored. Unlike other mosques, visitors are not allowed to go inside unless the mosque is open for prayers.
The shops around the mosques have been a trickier issue to resolve. Located under the raised platform, these businesses have been operating for generations. But in recent years, the space has become more congested, with informal businesses and vendors taking up more space on the street. As the restoration continues, heritage specialists urge the shopkeepers to shift and make room for the reconstruction. But the shopkeepers refuse to leave their generations-old property, and complain that plans involving relocation are being made without community input.
A View of the Mosque from Above
The mosque is one of the last Mughal sites of Lahore, and while some see it as a representation of the tragic fall of the empire, others see it as beautiful amalgamation of architectural styles and religious aesthetics, befitting the city’s rich history. As a uniquely-made mosque in a largely Sikh architectural style, Sunehri Masjid has a special place in history as a reminder of the city’s syncretized past during a chaotic time in the Indian Subcontinent’s history. It will be interesting to see how the restoration processes negotiate such a complex and multi-purpose complex.
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