Written by: Sadaf Shahzad
Posted on: November 03, 2020 | 
The Ruins at Kafirkot
In a small village between the town of Mianwali and Dera Ismail Khan in KPK, exists a mysterious site that raises more questions than it offers answers. Located along the Indus River close to the Chashma Barrage, at the foothills of where the Hindu Kush meet the Salt Range, lies ruins of a fortification. Locals call this place 'Kafirkot', and while not much is known about these fortifications, they continue to captivate those who wish to unearth the history of the Indus.
Kafirkot is divided into two main complexes, Bilot Kafirkot and Tilot Kafirkot, which are about 50 km distance from each other. The site is located on a hill, amidst a rocky landscape that is somewhat difficult to climb. It is largely believed that these ruins are part of the eight temple complexes built by the Hindu Shahi Empire, a large dynasty that once held power from the Kabul Valley in the West, to parts of India in the East.
Closeup of the Bilot Fort Temple
Very little is known about the Hindu Shahi, and most of the information which archaeologists have pieced together comes from the stories of their enemies, coins or inscriptions on the walls of places like Kafirkot. While some, like the explorer Al-Beruni, argue that they were Tibetan or Turkic foreigners that settled in the area, others believe they emerged from warring clans of this region. Hindu Shahis broke off from the predominant Kabul Shahis who were Buddhists, and settled in the area along the Indus River. However, they were defeated by the Ghaznavids in 11 CE, who took over their territory but left the fortifications intact.
However, looking at the various motifs around the ruins, it appears that the Shahis were not an isolated or hostile community, but one in contact with the surrounding clans and rulers. According to historians, there are motifs on the ruins that belong to Gandharan and Kashmiri empires, with Kashmiri designs on the entrance ways. The ruins, however, have round tops indicative of Gandharan architecture, but this may be the reason why these ruins were initially thought to be ordinary Buddhist stupas. The Shahis’ territory most likely covered Gandhara, and at one point, Kashmir was also included in the civilization.
Stone Work on the Ruins
Archaeologists have dated this particular complex at Kafirkot to the 7th Century CE, as a fascinating example of medieval fortifications. Not only does its location provide a unique vantage point overlooking the Indus in the North, but is also protected by an impassible trench on the South, and a boundary wall in the West for protection. However, the real question remains as to how the fort was built because the locals say that the stones used to build the fortifications are not indigenous to the region.
The Fortification Wall (photo credits to Tariq Amir)
While walking through the main entrance and standing in the compound, one cannot help but feel a sense of awe at the structural and architectural marvel of the place. There seem to be remnants of a few Hindu temples in the compound, judging by the carvings, along with a pool at the centre. It is astonishing to consider that despite the Ghaznavid invasions and those of other great civilizations like the Kushans, Mongols or Mughals, these ruins somehow survived but their existence was never recorded.
It wasn’t until the British arrived that the Gazetter of Mianwali first recorded the existence of Kafirkot in 1915, stating that the ruins “are an indication of the existence of a Hindu civilization of considerable importance and antiquity." The first archaeological work at Kafirkot took place during the colonial rule, and much of the artifacts from the site are still located in the British Museum. Other famous British explorers of this region, such as Alexander Burnes and Charles Masson (who discovered the Harrapa ruins), also mention Kafirkot in their travels. But they too could only speculate about those who built and used the fortifications at Tilot and Bilot.
An Artifact from Kafirkot currently in the British Museum
While the ruins are crumbling, historians agree that this is not due to destruction at the hands of an enemy invader, but from the passage of time. Pakistan has many such sites that serve as reminders of the land’s rich and old history. It is perhaps the mystery and sense of wonder they inspire which may prompt historians or history enthusiasts to research their origins, and inform others of their existence.
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