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    The Royal Bath: Shahi Hamam, Lahore

    Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
    Posted on: March 05, 2018 | | 中文

    Main reception hall of Shahi Hamam

    Inside Lahore’s Delhi Gate lies a world redolent of a bygone grandeur. The Wazir Khan Masjid, the Sunehri Masjid, historic wells, the royal trail and a number of havelis, are all present inside the Walled City and guarded by this gate. A very important monument adjacent to the gate is the Shahi Hamam or Royal Bath, a Mughal-era structure that continues to inspire awe even now. Besides its historical eminence, however, it’s the stellar conservation of Shahi Hamam that deserves appreciation, with the hope that such a process may be replicated in other heritage sites of the region.

    The Shahi Hamam was built by the governor of Lahore, Hakim Ilm Ud Din Ansari, during the reign of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. Since the formidable Wazir Khan Masjid nearby was also built by him, the construction of the hamam in the 1630s, was a way to aid in the financial needs of the grand mosque. Though certain luxurious baths may have been present in other Mughal buildings, this Hamam stands out for two reasons; firstly, it’s considered unique owing to Turkish and Persian influences in its style, secondly, it’s a proper public bath, instead of the neat private baths in vogue back then. It is said that when the Mughals tried to introduce the Turkish/Persian bath styles here, they weren’t well-received by the locals. The Shahi Hamam in Lahore is the only one still-standing, and a testimony to their efforts. In its day, it offered services that were surprisingly ahead of its times: hot, warm and cold plunges, massage places, sweat rooms and resting chambers.

    Cold bath cistern room

    Cold bath cistern room

    In total, the place comprised of twenty one inter-connected rooms. The bath was used both by travellers and the locals of the place. After having made the arduous journey from Delhi, royal guests would stop here to freshen up, before entering the Fort. Women would also visit the bath, either in a segregated portion of the complex, or only on allotted days. Over the years, the bath lost its purpose and the usual drill of Mughal monuments follows. Plundered by Sikhs, vandalised by British and criminally neglected by the country they ended up in. Except that the tale of the Shahi Hamam follows a slightly different trajectory.

    Furnace in the hot water reservoir

    Furnace in the hot water reservoir

    The first time I visited the Hamam, would be around ten years ago, and to say that the place was in shambles would be an under-statement. There was no proper boundary, encroachments were rampant on all sides, the entrance route was indistinct, and there were no entry tickets, since it wasn’t even a proper tourist site. I had to knock incessantly on the door of the adjoining school, before a person came out, who had the key of Hamam in his pocket. It was a time when only heritage aficionados knew of the Shahi Hamam, for most of the populace didn’t know about its existence.

    How things have changed for Shahi Hamam since then, is hard to believe. Renowned historian and writer, William Dalrymple, author of “The Last Mughal” and “Return of a King,” tweeted early last year that Shahi Hamam’s renovation project was the “best new architectural restoration project I've seen anywhere in South Asia.” Coming from Dalrymple, whose expertise on the subject is remarkable, it's no mean achievement. It only goes to show the success of this project.

    The Walled City of Lahore Authority, a body of the Government of Punjab, is to be accredited with the work. The major restoration work began in 2013, when this Authority teamed up with Aga Khan Cultural Service, Pakistan, and the Royal Norwegian Embassy. They carried out extensive excavations, digging up the floors, until they reached the actual waterways and drainage systems. Scaffolding was put in place, to offer a bird’s eye view of the uncovered bathing system. The frescoes on the roof were renovated and re-done, and ample lighting put into place. Electronic tablets were installed to offer information about each room’s purpose, and a separate room was allocated for seminars. The encroachments around the bath were removed and the original westwards entrance was restored. Numerous tourist facilities have been added since then, including a cafeteria with a royal ambience, which now offers sumptuous snacks, a functional souvenir shop and even primly maintained washrooms.

    The tablet with an explanation of how the Hamam worked

    The tablet with an explanation of how the Hamam worked

    The conservation is estimated to have cost one million dollars, and more than half of this came from the Royal Norwegian Embassy. Not only should the success story of Shahi Hamam be lauded, the effort should be duplicated in other places, and such public-private partnerships should be encouraged. Though the part of the bath damaged permanently due to the ravages of time, cannot be restored, the Walled City of Lahore Authority has left nothing else to raise objections upon. When there’s talk of neglecting our history, the Shahi Hamam in Lahore can shrug off these allegations with ease, since it does not fall into that category.

    Artefacts recovered during the excavations

    Artefacts recovered during the excavations

    Though we are talking about the exception and not the norm, the astounding and wonderful work done on the Shahi Hamam must be acknowledged. An Award of Merit was bestowed upon this project by UNESCO Asia-Pacific Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation in 2016. Here’s hoping that this trend of owning and conserving our historical sites is replicated, and the long over-due attention, which our rich heritage deserves, is finally granted to it!


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

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    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
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    January 2021