Written by: Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro
Posted on: September 16, 2024 | 
Closer view of the shrine complex of Bodlo Bahar in Sehwan Sharif (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro).
In the ancient city of Sehwan Sharif in Sindh, amidst a rich tapestry of cultural and spiritual landmarks, one encounters a place of profound significance: the dargah (shrine) of Bodlo Bahar. This revered shrine, steeped in history and legend, is located in the old locality of Sehwan Sharif. He was a disciple of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar. Surrounded by an aura of spirituality, this dargah serves as a magnet for pilgrims and visitors, resonating with the timeless echoes of devotion and reverence.
The shrines in Sehwan Sharif are always crowded with devotees who are busy performing various rituals. The dargah of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar (d.1274) is the most popular and attracts many devotees daily. The shrines of his disciples in Sehwan Sharif are also regularly visited by devotees. Lal Shahbaz Qalandar's disciples' shrines are located in every locality of Sehwan Sharif. Some famous shrines include Bodlo Bahar, Juman Jati, Shah Ibrahim Jati Sati, Syed Mir Kalan, Nihal Nuri, Bura Badal Sher, Mir Salahuddin and others. The shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar and the shrines dedicated to his disciples are known to be gathering places for Qalandari dervishes and malangs (other-worldly) in Sehwan Sharif.
Interior view of Bodlo Bahar shrine (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro).
Historians and hagiographers have provided plenty of information on Lal Shahbaz Qalabadar, but only a few of them provide little information about his disciples. Bodlo Bahar is included in the list of his disciples. The earliest source on Bodlo Bahar is Tazkira Mashaikh Siwistan, written in 1039 AH/1629-30 by Abdul Ghafur bin Hyder Siwistani, presenting a brief account of Bodlo Bahar. The real name of Bodlo was Makhdoom Sikander. Bodlo Bahar was his title. Abdul Ghafur bin Hyder Siwistani states that he was a saint and scholar. He used to impart religious education in Siwistan (Sehwan), but the location of this teaching remains unknown. Abdul Ghafur bin Hyder Siwistani believes that Makhddom Sikandar later became Bodlo. Dr N. A. Baloch, the distinguished scholar, precisely provided various interpretations of the term "Bodlo" in Sindhi. According to Dr N. A. Baloch, "Bodlo" conveys meanings such as simpleton, dervish, faqir, holy person, darling, pampered, dear and others. It reflects that he was Majzub (a special type of ecstatic).
It is interesting to note that Abdul Ghafur bin Hyder Siwistani's Tazkira Mashaikh Siwistan does not discuss Sikandar Bodlo Bahar’s family or other details. Later writings provide additional information, but historians and hagiographers do not cite any sources for this information.
Mannat objects on the tree at Bodlo Bahar shrine complex (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
Even the story of Anud Kasai, the butcher who cut Bodlo Bahar into pieces, is not mentioned in Tazkira Mashaikh Siwistan. There are different versions of the story of Anud Kasai of chopping Sikandar Bodlo Bahar into pieces, but it found its place in later writings. In one of the versions of the story, Anud Kasai killed Bodlo Bahar, and later, his pieces reached Anud Kasai’s shop and resurfaced on the call of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar or Lal Shahbaz Qalandar restored him! It has nothing to do with reality. It was a myth that probably followers of the saint propagated. It is important to investigate further Anud Kasai's actions about the alleged killing of Sikandar Bodlo Bahar. This inquiry is vital to illuminate the presented narrative's truth. The issue at hand pertains to whether the livestock shortage, attributed by certain scholars to the drought, led the butcher to kill Bodlo Bahar or if there were alternative unidentified reasons. Moreover, it is essential to ascertain if there existed any discord between the two religious groups that caused the alleged killing of Sikandar Bodlo Bahar.
This information needs to be thoroughly studied to reach any conclusion. Additionally, it is necessary to examine the socio-economic and socio-religious conditions in pre-Islamic Siwistan (Sehwan). Collecting and investigating the folklore of pre-Islamic Siwistan and the period when Lal Shahbaz Qalandar arrived in Sehwan in the thirteenth century is important for understanding this narrative. This collection may provide a missing link to understanding the narratives surrounding Bodlo Bahar. Furthermore, the absence of written sources has led to many misunderstandings about Sikandar Bodlo Bahar’s place of origin. Some writers believe that he came from Uch and settled in Sehwan. Abdul Ghafur bin Hyder Siwistani stated nothing in his account of Sikandar Bodlo Bahar in Tazkira Mashaikh Siwistani, whether he was a local or an emigrant to Sehwan. All later information without any written sources confused the readers. One learns from the later writings by the scholars that he was born in Uch in 602 AH/1238 AD. We were also told that his father’s name was Dindar Khan. Before the arrival of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, it is believed that he cleaned Sehwan town with his long beard! Writing about the mystics of the thirteenth century from Siwistan (Sehwan) is challenging, due to limited historical information about them.
Entrance of the shrine of Bodlo Bahar (Picture credits to Express Tribune)
Setting aside the disputations about narratives and tales about Bodlo Bahar, his shrine indisputably represents the most hallowed precinct in Sehwan Sharif for his adherents. Dhamal is a traditional devotional dance that holds significant cultural and religious value at the shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar in Sehwan Sharif. It takes place at the shrine of Sikandar Bodlo Bahar, where followers don red robes and actively perform dhamal. Notably, the Bodlai Faqirs, who are the devotees of Sikandar Bodlo Bahar, can be distinguished by their customary red attire in Sehwan.
I have visited the shrine of Bodlo Bahar several times, with my most recent visit on December 30th, 2019, accompanied by Mir Hajan Mir, a young historian and poet from Sehwan Sharif. The shrine complex of Bodlo Bahar is located in the old Khad Mohalla of Sehwan Sharif. While entering the shrine complex, one notices the name ‘Hazart Sakhi Shah Mardan Sikandar Bodla’ written on the tomb's facade. A new tomb on the grave of Sikandar Bodlo Bahar was constructed a decade ago. The interior of the tomb is adorned with glasswork. The alam is installed in the courtyard of the shrine. Adjacent to the shrine is the Imam Bargah, which was built a few years ago. Two domes crown the Imam Bargah building.
Interior view of the Imam Bargah at Bodlo Bahar shrine complex (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro).
The tree is a striking sight at the Bodlo Bahar shrine complex, adorned with numerous mannat (vow) objects left by the followers of Bodlo Bahar. It is decorated with bangles, bells (some inscribed with the name of the devotee), talisman ritual necklaces, woolen threads, and various other items. One of the bells bears the name of a devotee and their place of residence, Paharpur in Dera Ismail Khan, KP. Devotees of Bodlo Bahar come from all corners of Pakistan to show reverence to their spiritual master.
A devotee standing next to the tree decorated with mannat objects (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro).
Posters with pictures of Bodlo Bahar and Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, showing the latter's shrine are available in the bazaars of Sehwan Sharif. One of the most popular poster iconographies depicts Bodlo Bahar leaning his head against the heart of his spiritual master, Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, with folded hands in prayer. Lal Shahbaz Qalandar gently touches Bodlo Bahar’s head with his right hand, reflecting the special bond between the master and murid (disciple), love and devotion. This depicts Bodlo Bahar as the most beloved disciple of the Qalandar.
The writer is an anthropologist. He has authored 16 books on Pakistan's cultural heritage and anthropology. He tweets @kalhorozulfiqar
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