Written by: Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro
Posted on: November 21, 2024 | 
Graves of Syed Sajan Sawai and his family. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
Village shrines are sites of veneration in Sindh in general and Badin district in particular. Devotees frequent these village shrines on different occasions. On special occasions such as the annual fair, these village shrines are swarmed with devotees who visit to seek the blessings of the saints. One such famous shrine is located in Badin’s Talhar taluka and belongs to Syed Sajan Sawai. The shrine of Syed Sajan Sawai is located about 4 km southeast of Dando town. Syed Sajan Sawai was an eminent deputy (khalifo) of Makhdoom Nooh Sarwar. He played an important role in disseminating Makhdoom Nooh's teachings in lower Sindh. Makhdoom Lutufullah, also known as Makhdoom Nooh Sarwar, was a revered mystic from 16th-century Sindh, recognized for his spirituality and teachings. As a mystic and spiritual master, he attracted many followers. The shrine of Makhdoom Nooh, the spiritual master of Syed Sajan Sawai, is located in the town of Hala in the Matiari district. This shrine is not only a place of reverence but also a center for those who wish to learn more about the spiritual heritage of the region. It attracts visitors from far and wide, who come to pay their respects and seek blessings. The shrine reflects the architectural beauty of its time and serves as a testament to the enduring legacy of Makhdoom Nooh and his profound impact on the spiritual landscape of Sindh.
Bibi Lal Mosque in Tando town. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
It is believed that Makhdoom Nooh Sarwar did not obtain initiation from any eminent Sufi of that time. His ancestors were adherents of Suhrawardi silsila. He was a Suhrawardi-Awaisi Sufi and the founder of the Sarwari order in Sindh. Makhdoom Nooh Sarwar was the first Islamic scholar and Sufi of Sindh to translate the Holy Quran into Persian, showing his command of Persian and Arabic. He was also an accomplished scholar of all the esoteric and exoteric subjects of his time.
Many religious discourses and lectures used to take place at Makhdoom Nooh’s khanqah at Halakandi, where eminent Sufis and dervishes of that time used to take part. Many people were impressed by his mystic knowledge during these religious discourses and became his disciples. Many of the books his disciples and descendants wrote and compiled give detailed information on his hagiography, religious education, activities, miracles and mystic knowledge. The sources also provide information about his descendants and disciples. Makhdoom Nooh died in 998 AH/ 1590 AD.
Mannat objects at the shrine of Syed Sajan Sawai. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The list of disciples and deputies of Makhdoom Nooh is very long. However, some books, including Daleel ul Zakirin, Anis ul Fuqra, Bayan ul Arifin, Hadiqat ul Auliya, Tufat ul Tahirin and Tufat ul Kiram, mention some of the names of his deputies and disciples, which include Dervish Qasim Jolah, Miran Katiyar, Ladho Bahar, Dervish Qutub, Dervish Bado, Makhdoom Abu Mustafa Thattvi, Mian Mitho Faqir, Sajan Sawai, Syed Abdul Karim Bulri, Syed Abu Bakar Lakiyari, Dervish Umar, Usman Chaki, Mitho Faqir, Bahauddin Dalqposh, Dervish Khman, Syed Taib Shah, Dervish Arisar Sodho, Sheikh Mehmood walad Siddiq Fakhari, Dervish Zakariya Samo and many others.
Syed Ali (1914), the author of Azkar Qalandari, also mentions the disciples of Makhdoom Nooh, which include Pak Sinhgar (dargah at Pak Singhar village), Haji Jalal, Hussain Singhar (dargah at Bukera Sharif), Syed Abhuro (dargah at Kesano wah, Hyderabad), Shah Bango, Pinio Kapri (dargah near Sajan Sawai) and others.
Mannat objects on main doorway of Sajan Sawai's shrine. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The shrine of Syed Sajan Sawai is famous in the Talhar taluka. According to Mir Ali Sher Qani (1989:418), the author of Tuhfat ul Kiram, Syed Sajan Sawai, was the son of Syed Qasim and was a disciple of Makhdoom Nooh. He was originally from Matiari, where he was known for his piety. Later, he migrated from Matiari to the Kochho area near Talhar. He died in the Kochho area, where he was laid to rest, and later, an impressive tomb was built over his grave. The shrine of Syed Sajan Sawai attracts many devotees daily. The annual fair held at his shrine attracts thousands of visitors from far and wide. People travel from distant regions to participate in this vibrant event, which features a variety of stalls, traditional performances, music and local delicacies. People from both Hindu and Muslim communities gather in large numbers at the shrine of Syed Sajan Sawai, attracted by its spiritual significance. Devotees pray and express their gratitude by leaving various votive objects at the shrine. These offerings include colorful threads, small tokens and handmade items, which are often tied to the branches of nearby trees, adorning the shrine's main entrance. The sight of these objects fluttering gently in the breeze creates a vibrant and sacred atmosphere, reflecting the devotion and faith of those who visit.
Graves of Syed Pini Ladho and his family. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The Syed Sajan Sawai graveyard is among the oldest in the Badin district. It contains many old structures, most of which have disappeared now. The tomb of his grandson Syed Pani Ladho, alias Panio Kapri, stands in the necropolis. It is a square tomb without a dome. It is believed that Syed Pani Ladho never allowed his descendants to construct a dome over his tomb. The tomb contains the graves of Syed Pani Ladho and his family. The lower part of the tomb was in a bad state of preservation, and his descendants recently renovated it. Adjacent to the tomb of Syed Pani Ladho is a walled enclosure of Bibi Lal, who was also a descendant of Syed Sajan Sawai.
The tomb of Pini Ladho in the necropolis of Sajan Sawai. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
Bibi Lal dedicated her entire life to spiritual practices and devotional activities. Known for her piousness, she spent her days reciting the Holy Quran and offering prayers. As an unmarried Sufi saint, she chose a life of solitude and deep spiritual engagement. This devotion colored her existence, and she found joy and purpose in her worship. Throughout her life, Bibi Lal remained steadfast in her dedication, embodying the principles of love and spirituality at the core of Sufism. She attended the annual Syed Sajan Sawai festival every year. Bibi Lal also built a three-domed mosque in Dando town in Tando Muhammad Khan’s Tando Ghulam Hyder taluka. The Jamia mosque of Dando was built in 1957, and the inscription on the mosque's gate bears both the builder's name and the construction date.
Interior view of Bibi Lal Mosque, Dando town. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The tomb of Syed Sajan Sawai is built in a square plan with a hemispherical dome. It is one the most magnificent tombs in Badin district. The tomb undergoes annual repairs, which have impacted its original condition. Recently, the front of the tomb was adorned with ceramics. The exact date of Syed Sajan Sawai's death is unknown; however, his hagiographers suggest that he died in the sixteenth century. It is believed that he left behind a son named Ibrahim Shah and a daughter to carry on his Sufi legacy.
The writer is an anthropologist. He has authored 16 books on Pakistan's cultural heritage and anthropology. He tweets @kalhorozulfiqar. He may be contacted at zulfi04@hotmail.com
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