Written by: Sadaf Shahzad
Posted on: March 12, 2021 | | 中文
Meat lovers in Pakistan are often spoiled for choice when comes to finding the perfectly charred and deliciously moist cut of meat or chicken. But perhaps no dish has taken a hold over the country in such a short period as the Balochi Sajji. The meaty dish is now popular and suited for all seasons, with many restaurants making their versions of it. Though Sajji is often synonymous with the city of Quetta, it has become a nationwide phenomenon that is both delicious and easy to find.
For a meal that has become so popular all over Pakistan, one is surprised to know that there is very little work done on its origins. Those who cook it believe it to come from the tribal areas of Balochistan, where spices were minimal and fatty lamb meat reigned supreme. Sajji is only one of the traditional meat dishes from Balochistan, along with Khaddi Kebabs (stuffed lamb that is left to roast underground) and Landhi (dried and preserved meat). The meat is served either with a traditional roti/naan, or a local bread variant called ‘Kaak’, which is made by cooking dough on top of a heavy stone that makes the bread hard yet flavorful.
Originally, the dish was, and still is, in certain restaurants made using lamb or mutton. The meat is often cut in various places to rub only salt on it, after which it is pierced with a wooden rod and is left to slow roast for hours till the meat turns crisp. Sajji was also stuffed with rice and potatoes for special occasions, and the sides would also cook in the meat’s juices. The end result is a tender and juicy cut of meat that is delectable, and does not need the extra assistance of side dishes. Sajji is also unique because the meat requires no oil and very little spices, which also makes it a healthier option to other barbecued foods available.
Nowadays, it is cheaper and easier to make Sajji using a whole organic chicken, leaving the skin crisp on the outside. Because people do not have the palette for meat cooked in fat, Sajji is now often marinated in spices and pastes to tenderize the meat, and give this traditional dish a new flavor. Local Pakistani restaurants often have a Sajji fire pit right outside their entrances, and it is considered something of a treat to watch and smell the chicken cook in the fire.
Locals from Quetta believe that the best place in the city to get authentic and tasty Sajji is Lehri Sajji House, next to the city’s press club. The restaurant was opened by Haji Aman Ullah in 1967, and the owners maintain that they introduced Sajji to the Pakistani food scene. Cooking Sajji starts at Fajr (morning prayers), and the meat is lightly marinated in homemade spices as it roasts on the open pit. The meat keeps roasting and turning all day, serving customers from both Pakistan and abroad. Although the restaurant has expanded to include more mainstream dishes, it still boasts the same delicious flavor of authentic Baloch food, using the original recipes from the 1960s.
Sajji has now traveled out of Balochistan, with restaurants being established in major cities like Karachi/Lahore or smaller places like Tando Adam in Sindh, which have a sizable Baloch migrant community. Over time, migrants moving out of Quetta for better opportunities took this signature dish with them, and caught the imagination of the wider Pakistani public. The Sajji available in other cities like Lahore and Karachi are usually whole chickens that are covered in spices and served with yogurt (raita) as well as a salad or rice. However, in order to capture the authenticity of the dish, Sajji still has to be prepared over an open fire for the meat to roast.
Sajji will continue to remain a popular favorite due to its appeal and simple cooking method. It is not just unique because of its taste, but its appeal is also in watching the spectacle of the meat/chicken slowly roast, the aroma of the meat cooking and listening to the crackle of the burning wood. While everyone in Pakistan has their own preferences for Sajji, the best way to consume this delectable dish is to experience its authentic Balochi taste.
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