Written by: Muhammad Umer Farooq
Posted on: May 08, 2024 | 
| 中文
Trekkers on the way towards Ali Camp
As I lace up my boots, anticipation fills the crisp mountain air. Today's journey promises not only physical exertion but also a spiritual communion with some of nature's most majestic creations. The plan is set: a six-hour trek from Concordia to Ali Camp, where we'll prepare to ascend Gondogoro La, which offers the possibility of viewing Pakistan's 8000-meter peaks from one place.
A little ahead of Concordia enroute Ali Camp. View of K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum (L to R)
Before embarking on this adventure, it's imperative to acknowledge the unsung heroes of these expeditions—the porters. In the remote reaches of these rugged landscapes, where employment opportunities are scarce, these individuals, often from local communities, carry the weight of our gear and aspirations. This journey is not just a source of livelihood, but an enduring family tradition and a passage into adulthood.
Porters rest on the way towards Ali Camp
The morning at Concordia dawned with a chill that seeped through my inadequate sleeping bag, yet the discomfort paled in comparison to the exhilaration of setting foot in this panoramic paradise. As we bid farewell to the bustling convergence of national and international expedition teams, the allure of Gondogoro La beckoned, promising a spectacle reserved for those willing to brave its heights.
Our path wound through a landscape both daunting and enchanting. The trail unfolds beneath our boots, revealing a tapestry of rugged terrain with the one of the largest glacial systems. The trek from Concordia to Ali Camp is a testament to the raw beauty of the Karakorams. As we ascend, the air grows thinner, yet our spirits soar in anticipation of the wonders that await. The trail, though challenging, rewards us with views of shimmering snow-capped summits and glaciers.
Trekkers on the way towards Ali Camp on a frozen path
As you leave Concordia and start towards Ali camp, the rock covered glacier turns into a white glacier. The colossal glaciers snake down from the peaks, their surfaces marred by crevasses like gaping wounds. Every 20 to 30 minutes one comes across breath taking views that make you stop and try to absorb the beauty of the place. The silence is broken only by the crunch of our boots on the loose stones, and the occasional sigh of the wind.
Ali Camp, our refuge for the night, emerges on the horizon like a beacon of hope. Nestled amidst the rocky embrace of the mountains, it offers respite from the rigors of the trail. Yet, even though the campsite now was in sight, when I tried to take a short cut in order to catchup with my team, I came across a crevasse that gave me goosebumps. I realized the importance of keeping up with my team as I was doing this trek for the first time, and since glaciers keep moving, even if this was not my first time it would have been challenging to find the way on my own.
A tent on the campsite
As night falls over the Karakoram, we gather around a crackling fire, our faces illuminated by its warm embrace. The stars above twinkle with a brilliance reserved for those who dare to venture into the unknown. Tomorrow, as we stand atop Gondogoro La, we will gaze upon a landscape unchanged by time, a testament to the enduring majesty of the mountains.
However, about 7 pm snow began to fall, and we stayed inside our camps till 9 pm when we gathered in the kitchen tent for dinner. There was slight tension in the group, because the weather had turned inhospitable. Our guide said that 2 hours of snow would have already covered the crevices on the way to Ali Camp and that we have to wait for the snowfall to stop to monitor conditions to proceed ahead. Unfortunately, even at mid-night there was a heavy snow fall, and the guide called off the plan to go to the Ali Camp the same day. The weather was such that we had no option other than spending a night in our camp. In the morning, when day light broke, I realized that our tent had fallen low as it had snowed all night. When I came outside the campsite, the sky was relatively clearer, but then I saw a group of people returning from the Gondogoro La. This was a team of international trekkers who had left the night before and reached the base of Gondogoro La, but had been stuck in the snow storm the entire night. They were being brought back by the local porters, and the group did not look in good shape. When this team reached near our camps, we engaged with the local porters and assessed whether we should wait another night and do Gondogoro La, but the conditions, they explained, were not safe. It was mid-August and in the Karakorams the weather starts changing around this time.
The other team returning from Gondogoro La
In the interest of the team, we decided to go back to Concordia and return to civilization from the same route that we had come from. We were at Concordia on 14th August and Ali camp on the 15th, and before going on this trek it had been my desire to spend my birthday with the view of K2. I think, God listened to this and made conditions unfavorable for me to move towards Gondogoro La, instead he made me move back towards K2 where on the 16th, I enjoyed my birthday in front of the second highest peak of the world. There were a lot of plans that year to descend towards Hushe and enjoy the beauty of this region as well, but nature has its own plan, and one can only adapt to it.
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