Written by: Mahnaz Shujrah
Posted on: November 03, 2022 | 
| 中文
The author at Tagafari with the northern view of Rakaposhi peak (credits @lostwithpurpose)
I make a conscious effort to not look up pictures of a place I am going to visit, purely because I want to feel the joy that comes with seeing it for the first time. This becomes quite challenging in today’s day and age, where pictures of tourist attractions are shared frequently on social media, often with high expectations that makes one feel underwhelmed upon arrival. However, in my case with Rakaposhi, it was different. I had stopped at the Rakaposhi view point several times while traveling between Gilgit City and Hunza, and I found the peak to be majestic and mesmerizing. Yet, this meeting did not prepare me for the surreal experience that awaited me at the Rakaposhi base camp. The first combined view of Rakaposhi and Diran Peak, as well as the Minapin glacier, all in one frame, is dreamlike. I don’t think any photograph could have done justice to it.
The author standing at the Minapin Glacier facing Diran Peak (Credits @lostwithpurpose)
Rakaposhi is in the Karakoram Range and is said to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. At 7,788 meters, it ranks as the 27th highest peak globally and the 12th highest within Pakistan. It is the only mountain in the world with more than 5,000 meters between the base camp and the summit. Rakaposhi is a difficult mountain to climb, and even though there are different routes, none of them is easy. The northern route is steep and technical, the western routes are long, while the southern and eastern route face high risk of avalanches. Less than ten missions have been able to summit the mountain successfully.
The trek to the base camp starts from Minapin, a village in Nagar Valley, situated a 100 km north of Gilgit City. Nagar is one of the ten districts of Gilgit Baltistan, and the beautiful valley is home to several popular tourist attractions including peaks, glaciers, lakes, and mountain passes.
Pictorial guide to Rakaposhi summit
The trek starts from the village itself and is about a three-hour journey to Hapakun, a meadow which serves as a halfway campsite or resting area. The first part of the hike involves a rough, zigzag path up the mountain side, which then leads to a more leveled forested area. There was a small settlement that we crossed, which is used by locals who go up and down the mountain for work and other chores. I was doing the trek for the first time, and enjoyed going in October as the busy tourist season had come to an end, and the fall colors were in full bloom. At Hapakun, I took a short nap, ate lunch, and filled my water bottle with the flowing glacial water; we were all set for the second half of the journey.
A local village before Hapakun (credits Pete R)
After Hapakun, the hike became very steep but also more beautiful. As we crossed over the top of the ridge, just before the base camp, there was a very windy viewpoint from where the Rakaposhi, which had not been visible during the entire hike, was revealed in full splendor beyond the Minapin Glacier. This walk led to the clearing of the campsite. The base camp at Tagafari is at 3,500 meters, leaving more than 5,000 between the base camp and the summit. The complete trek involves a total ascent of 1,500 meters in a short amount of time, hence taking breaks and acclimatizing to the changes in altitude is important.
Breakfast at Rakaposhi base camp at Tagafari
As luck would have it, I found myself at the foot of the Rakaposhi on a bright, full moon night. The sky was clear and the mountain glistened under the moonlight. A small fire was going to keep the cold at bay, as winter was just around the corner and my hands were frozen despite the gloves I was wearing. I sat for a while staring at the peak. I could hear the sound of avalanches intermittently, and sometimes even catch a glimpse between the shadows. I was transported into a different world where the daily woes seemed to melt away. It was almost as if my mind was operating on a different frequency in the mountains. It dawned on me that the Rakaposhi peak would receive the first rays of light, and without a moments delay, I decided that I must catch that first beam of sunlight.
At 6 am the next morning, I was on my way. I climbed up the way that we had come down to Tagafari, and went to the viewpoint that had blown me away the previous day. There I waited silently as the shadows of the night vanished to welcome the early rays of the sun. After much anticipation, sure enough the sun peaked from above the opposite mountain and made contact with the sublime peak. I was surrounded by mountains in all directions, almost a 360-degree view.
Sunrise on the northern face of the Rakaposhi peak
Later that morning, we made our way to explore the glacier. It is critical to be accompanied by a local guide when walking or crossing the glacier, because it is easy to misjudge the thickness of the ice and fall into a crevasse. I found the Minapin Glacier to be especially stunning. There is no doubt that its size has reduced in recent decades, but still, it is a site to behold.
The experience at the base camp was surreal, and I would highly recommend spending at least a day camping. The climb down from the basecamp is a breeze, as compared to the rigorous climb uphill. However, I would still recommend taking breaks because going downhill on a steep slope for several hours places a lot of pressures on the knees, especially for those who are not used to it.
At the base camp of Rakaposhi
I believe Rakaposhi base camp is a must visit for all those who are healthy and can manage to go. The climb is strenuous for the first-time trekkers, but it is very doable if done slowly. The local guides and porters are extremely helpful and accommodating. As for the view, it is unlike any other and worth the challenging climb.
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