Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
Posted on: February 06, 2020 | 
| 中文
Gurdwara Darbar Sahib at Kartarpur (photo credits to the writer)
Pakistan has a special connection to the Sikh community, because many of their sacred sites are located in the Punjab province. The most important among these are the Gurdwara Janam Asthan in Nankana Sahib and Gurdwara Darbar Sahib in Narowal. Gurdwara Janam Asthan is the birthplace of Baba Guru Nanak, and Gurdwara Darbar Sahib is where he spent the last eighteen years of his life farming in the Punjabi heartland, after living a life of sacred journeys and missionary tasks. Gurdwara Darbar Sahib along with the much-hyped Kartarpur Corridor, has become an essential part of Pakistan’s religious tourist map. A personal word of advice, however, would be to follow the chronology and visit Nankana Sahib and Kartarpur in that sequence.
Gurdwara Darbar Sahib in the town of Kartarpur in Tehsil Shakargarh, previously had been relegated to the extreme periphery of the country’s consciousness for many decades. Sikhs from India could easily make their way here when border control wasn’t strict post-Partition. But the 1965 War between the two countries effectively put an end to the free flow of worshippers. The gurdwara stopped being functional soon afterwards, and fell into a state of disuse, though Sikhs from across the border would try to have its darshan (viewing) from a platform on their side. It was only in 2004 that the Gurdwara became functional again, but its full renovation was only completed recently. Not only is there a huge marble complex in the area now, but also a visa-free corridor between the two countries has been established by Pakistan, allowing Indian Sikhs to visit their holy shrine without any requirements.
The Entrance to the Gurdwara
The Kartarpur Corridor is a lesson in the importance of peace and connectivity. Though the project was visualized earlier, it was only last year that the corridor was formally inaugurated. It interestingly coincided with The Fall of the Berlin Wall (9th November) and Baba Guru Nanak’s 550th birth anniversary (also referred to as Guru Purab) on 12th November. Geopolitical underpinnings aside, the Gurdwara is also a testimony to religious harmony that can be created. After the death of Guru Nanak in 1539, both Muslims and Hindus claimed his body, to treat it according to their own religious customs. Legend says that his body miraculously vanished overnight, and only the flowers placed around it by both religious groups remained. The Hindus cremated their share of flowers and the Muslims buried theirs. A grave and a samadhi are still present in Gurdwara Darbar Sahib, a few feet from each other.
One of the largest Gurdwaras in the world, Gurdwara Darbar Sahib sits on over 400 acres of lands for the whole complex acquired by the government of Pakistan, along with the surrounding facilities like hotels, commercial areas and parking lots. The temple complex itself has an area of 42 acres, when it was previously only 4 acres. There is a dedicated expressway of about five kilometers, specially constructed from the Indian border to the site of the Gurdwara. Though work on the mega project is still underway, many of its essential features are already up and running. The langar (communal kitchen) is serving food to the devotees, water pools are in place, food outlets are offering vegetarian options in the area. There are a number of handicrafts stores showcasing the best of Pakistan to the guests.
The Gurdwara Seen from Afar
The opening of the holy well has been among the greatest achievements of the whole renovation process, for it was from the same well Guru Nanak that used to water the fields. There is a similar well in Gurdwara Janam Asthan, said to be the water-source for Baba’s home when he was a child. The water of this well, the Amrit Jal, is sacred to the Sikhs.
The Well From Which Guru Nanak Watered the Fields
However, it is not uncommon for a project of this magnitude to fall prey to political myopia. Despite the arrangements to host 5000 pilgrims from India daily, the current figures are less than 500 per day. This has largely been attributed to the apprehensions on the part of Indian authorities, and their slow response in expediting the process. For example, while it is not a requirement for Indians to have a passport at the Pakistani side, it is mandatory on the Indian side. One can only hope that such inconveniences are brushed away in the future.
But then there’s no point dwelling upon the negatives here, as the whole concept deserves better. The Kartarpur Corridor has been welcomed by the Sikh community around the world with a great deal of warmth. The pilgrims we met from India were far too excited to conceal their love and emotion for the place. Despite the heavy security precautions, it is great to see the land of Baba Guru Nanak used as a refuge of harmony and tolerance. Seven decades have passed since 1947, and the people of this region continue to overlook the enormous damage hatred and prejudice has caused. The opening of the Kartarpur Corridor, and the easy access to Gurdwara Darbar Sahib, is one step in the right direction.
Vistors Coming to See the Shrine
“Kirat Karo, Naam Japo, Wand Chako (work hard, remember God, share your bounties with others)” are the three principles Baba Guru Nanak taught in Kartarpur all those centuries ago. It is perhaps one of the best places from which to begin the journey of religious and cultural tolerance.
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