Written by: Sidra Jamil
Posted on: May 21, 2018 | 
| 中文
Noor Jahan's abode
Located in the Walled City of Lahore, “Taxali Gate,” also known as Taxal, is the only opening of the walled city to the west. Though the gate itself no longer exists, it was built during the reign of the Mughal King Akbar, from 1575 -1585. The streets here are full of ancient architecture, and the area has remained a cultural hubbub since time immemorial. Against the backdrop of the iconic Badshahi Mosque, this striking space attracts thousands of national and international tourists. It’s believed to have been named ‘Taxali’ due to the presence of the Mughal Royal Mint or “Tixaal.”
After entering through where Taxali Gate once stood, one is welcomed by the Baggi Bazaar. Baggi, a horse driven carriage, was once used for transportation around the city. Nowadays, baggis are used in marriages for the bride and groom’s royal entry, and can be rented for some specific hours at economical rates. Further along the route lies the biggest shoe market of Lahore, called the “Sheikhupurian Bazaar.” It offers a remarkable range of shoes, including khussa and peshawari chappal, as well as the raw material needed for manufacturing them. Pakistan’s first cinema, “Pakistan Talkies,” can also be found here. This is considered the oldest cinema of Lahore, but is no longer functional and lies desolate. Besides the cinema, a musical instruments’ market can be found, where one can buy a variety of traditional and modern musical instruments, like drums, guitars, piano, violin, tabla, sitar and dhol.
History narrates that this area was renowned for the promotion of art, music, and literature. Several poets lived in the narrow streets of Taxali over the years. Ustad Daman, the most eminent Punjabi poet from the time of partition, once resided here, and his home has been converted into an academy. Allama Iqbal, the national poet of Pakistan, and Altaf Hussain Hali, another Urdu poet, were also residents of the area. But poets aren’t the only ones who found their abodes here. The famous Sir Ganga Ram, known as the father of modern Lahore, also had his house here. Though the house is in a poorly kept condition, it serves as a reminder of the great philanthropist’s contributions to Lahore. Similarly, also present here is Pakistan’s famous actress and singer Madam Noor Jehan’s exquisitely painted abode.
Taxali is emblematic of the syncretism of pre-partition, which is evident in the presence of the Taxali mosque, a Sikh temple and a church. The area is extremely fascinating for national and international tourists because of its meandering alleys and beautifully designed buildings, such as the several havelis (traditional townhouses) located on the Fort Road Food Street. The facades of these houses, with their intricate wooden work windows, called jharokas, are quite appealing. Many of the restaurants set up within these houses, provide the best view of the Badshahi Mosque, especially when it is illuminated at night. Haveli Barood Khana, also known as Mian Salahuddin’s Haveli, is considered the landmark of Taxali, and known for its beautiful architectural details. It is the only haveli which is preserved in its original state!
The Taxali Gate area is well-known for being a red-light district, also called the Heera Mandi (Diamond Market). Named after Maharajah Ranjit Singh’s favorite general, Heera Singh, the area is sometimes referred to as the Shahi Mohalla, since it’s located right next to the Fort. During the Mughal era, the concubines who lived here were trained in classical singing and dancing. However, the area turned into a marketplace for prostitutes during the British era. Iqbal Hussain, a painter who grew up in a family of prostitutes, documents the plight of the women still practicing their trade here. His restaurant, Cooco’s Den, is located in the same haveli where he grew up on the Fort Road Food Street, and attracts tourists due to its grand views of Badshahi Mosque as well as the delectable food.
Old Lahore remains quite popular for food and Taxali is no different. One is immediately welcomed by the mouthwatering aromas of freshly fried pakoras to steaming tea pots from dhabas, from carts selling simmering gravies to biryani shops, from lassi to traditional sweets’ shops. Enticing items such as the well-known “Phajjay key Paye” and “Taj Mahal Halwa Puri” are a major attraction for food lovers from around the country.
Taxali is a must stopover for those visiting Lahore, for here one can get a quick glimpse of the culture, art, history, music and architecture of Punjab! These dwellings, however, need careful consideration of the authorities for their proper rehabilitation, so that this cultural legacy can be preserved and protected for our coming generations. The work of the Walled City Authority of Lahore is laudable, and one hopes that they will continue to carry on their commendable work, which at a slow and steady pace has led to the conservation of several important heritage sites of Lahore.
All photographs provided by Arslan Afzal.
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