Written by: Mahnaz Shujrah
Posted on: May 03, 2019 | 
| 中文
The Lalo Bheel Group
With the Kalasha Traveling Exhibit happening last week and diverse cultural holidays being celebrated around the city, Lahore seems to have come alive this spring. Adding to this sense of community, Institute for Arts and Culture (IAC) hosted an event to highlight the unique traditions of the people of Cholistan. The two day long "Rohi di Ajab Bahar" (The strange winds of Rohi), took place on Friday, 26th April and Saturday, 27th April at IAC.
The Cholistan desert is located in the geographic heart of Pakistan, and is home to one of the oldest indigenous cultures of the subcontinent. The religiously diverse community has a lifestyle similar to other desert dwellers; living in a nomadic manner and relying on livestock for livelihood. Cholistan, or Rohi as it is locally referred to, is also home to a river bed, remains of the great river Hakra, which turned dry hundreds of years ago. When I visited Cholistan last winter, I realized this ancient river has not completely disappeared; it is very much present, visible in the music, poetry, hopes and dreams of these people - a community who proudly link their identity to the land. The Cholistan event was organized around informational panel discussions, traditional live music, beautiful poetry recitations and thought-provoking plays.
On the second day, documentaries were screened about the music of Cholistan. One focused on the famous singer from the area "Lalo Laal,” who shared his experience of singing as part of the Marvari community, a local tribe consisting of both Muslims and Hindus. The best part was when the projector screen was lifted and the Lalo Laal and Lalo Bheel Group were seen on stage. Their presence led to a delightful performance in Marwari, which transported the audience through the realm of music.
A lot of poetry about Rohi, including some of which was sung, is written by Khawaja Ghulam Fareed. He preaches a message similar to that of the Sufis of the subcontinent. A sub-sect of the Sufis in this area are called the Bhagats, and they have also influenced this spiritual music. In his couplets, Khawaja Fareed takes on the role of a woman in love, who undergoes a wide range of intense emotions. This is also a common feature amongst other Sufi poets, for example Shah Latif Bhittai.
Another documentary about Cholistani folk culture, shared with the audience, the life of the singers Dadli Mai and Mohen Bhagat, both very passionate and popular singers. Dadli Mai talked about how she got interested in music at a very young age, and even though her in-laws wanted her to hide her face while singing, she considered music such an important part of herself, that she couldn't possibly hide her identity. It was also interesting to learn about their traditional instruments, all of which remain in use today. To conclude this segment, Aniqa Malik, a young singer affiliated with Ajoka Theatre, sang a melodious composition based on the theme of Hakra River.
An interesting presentation was the talk, “Channan Pir: Myth and Reality,” presented by the renowned traveler, Salman Rashid. Rashid shared his personal experience of traveling to Channan Pir, one of the most sacred and popular shrines in Cholistan, in the 1990s. He showed pictures from the rituals which used to take place when the shrine only consisted of a sand dune grave. In recent years, the shrine has been formalized by an Auqaf through the erection of a typical domed building. He also shared his research regarding the sand dune worship which happened here, and how the practices in the area have changed over time due to changes in economic conditions.
What I personally appreciated the most was that the event wasn’t just limited to cultural celebration but also highlighted the challenges these communities face. Two talks, by Dr. Muzammil Bhatti and Musaarat Kalanchvi, specifically focused on the women of Cholistan, known for their resilience, hard work and strength. While Bhatti has written extensively about the struggles of women, Kalanchvi is a Seraiki short story writer, poet and dramatist, who has written several plays for PTV, focusing on stories from Cholistan and its environs. Dr. Bhatti talked about health being a primary issue for women, especially new mothers. The daily lives of these women are greatly hindered by the lack of health facilities. Much of the medical infrastructure exists in the form of "ghost clinics,” with no aid or physicians available. Another key issue is of women's land rights, as many women work in the rural agricultural sector, but do not have legal rights to ownership, and thus to benefits of the land unless a male relative is involved. Hence, even when female farmers (often widowed) actually work on their family land, they still do not get a fair share of return or access to payments, because actual ownership is retained by men. As a whole, the people of Cholistan also face a severe water crisis, with access to clean drinking water being a rare blessing.
The two-day experience was concluded in the best way possible with a stellar performance of “Kala Meda Bhes” by Ajoka Theatre. The play, inspired by the true story of a woman being exchanged for an ox, left the audience with a powerful message about toxic social practices. It also questioned power dynamics, through the character of a Pir who takes advantage of the trust of innocent villagers.
Overall, Rohi di Ajab Bahar reflected on various aspects of Cholistan in a comprehensive manner, bringing together speakers, musicians, actors and film makers, for a two-day long celebration of the indigenous culture. With dance, music, and powerful presentations, the event brought forth a valuable message about the rich cultural heritage of Cholistan, but also about the economic and social hardship of its people neglected by successive governments.
All photography credits: Nadeem Khawar and Shahzad Mehmood
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