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    Indus Chronicles in Sukkur

    Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
    Posted on: November 28, 2022 | | 中文

    Sadh Belo temple from the Indus

    On a boat ride atop the Indus in Sukkur, the city comes to life. While the engineering marvels of the bridges and barrage greet you at the front, the city skyline also brushes* against your vision. The river runs between Sukkur and Rohri, but these twin cities form more of a continuum than the locals might be willing to acknowledge. The Indus then becomes the sole point of distinction, filled with its many stories and wonders.

    Inside Sadh Belo

    The temple of Sadh Belo, literally translated as "woods of the sage," sit neatly on an island in the middle of Indus. In the wake of the recent floods that wreaked havoc in the country, access to the island was compromised, but the unruly waters of the Indus had steadied somewhat, the day I went there. The temple, an architectural wonder where detailed emblems in marble present everything in magnificent detail, from statues of deities to depictions of heaven and hell, the complex comprises nine temples. The temple is generally said to have been constructed around 1889, even though the foundation of the place as a religious one was laid much earlier. Baba Bankhandi Maharaj, a spiritual seeker from Nepal, settled in the area in 1823, which was then a forest and was called Menak Parbat. It is said that he saw Mother Annapurna, the goddess of grain, in a dream and resolved to build a temple for her. The temple associated with the Udaasi movement, whose religious practices border on a syncretism of Hinduism and Sikhism, soon gained a following. The temple bustles with activity throughout the year, but especially during the Hindu festivals. The anniversary of the Baba is also celebrated every year at the temple with much fanfare. There are various facilities in the complex, rooms to house the guests, a library, gardens and dining areas.

    Inscriptions of religious figures at Sadh Belo

    The little boat ride to the island is quite an experience in itself, as the decor of the temples and the figures on it are riveting because in such pristine and colorful condition. However, that is not the only thing to warrant your attention there. As we were busy chatting with the caretaker of the temples, who was narrating to us stories of the gaddi nasheen (heirs of the temple), who live in India but pay regular visits to the temple. Our attention was drawn to the ripples in the deep waters of the Indus, for it was Bhulan, the legendary blind dolphin who lives only in the Indus. It is difficult to spot these dolphins, for with their population is dwindling and they are an endangered species. Current estimates of the population of dolphins put them at less than 2000. Interestingly, the same barrage and irrigation system that provided so much succor to the people, ended up being harmful to the water's inhabitants. And then nothing in the region comes without a story, and the dolphin is no exception. The legend goes that the dolphin was once a woman, but she was cursed by a saint to whom she overlooked giving food one day. She has existed as a blind dolphin since that day. There are other equally imaginative stories: from believing the dolphin to have supernatural powers to dwelling on her possibilities as a mermaid, Bhulan continues to inspire the attention of locals and travelers alike.

    Sadh Belo in Indus

    However, the legend of the dolphin is not the only thing associated with the mighty Indus, which has a number of stories associated with it. The Indus plays an important role in many religious and Sufi epics, a lifeline to the area it passes through and encompassing a wide range of the land of Pakistan. Every now and then, the waters in the Indus result in disastrous floods.

    Beautiful marble balconies at Sadh Belo

    In many ways, Sadh Belo and its festivities are a fitting tribute to the river in the middle of which it is located. The Indus has also been termed "Abbasin", the father of rivers, and it’s fitting that Sadh Belo is also considered one of the most amazing temples in Pakistan. The stories associated with the temple are, by definition, stories of the river itself. Unfortunately, Hindu pilgrims from India can only visit this revered temple in times of cordial exchange between the two countries, while Muslims have to take permission to visit it. Sadh Belo on the Indus is an expression of the religious diversity that still exists in Sindh, and should be encouraged to flourish.

    An inscription at Sadh Belo


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021









    Video message by Senator Mushahid Hussain Sayed on Black Day of Indian Occupation of Kashmir



    Video message by Senator Mushahid Hussain Sayed on Black Day of Indian Occupation of Kashmir, 27 October 1947, when Indian military troops forcibly occupied Kashmir illegally, claiming a fraudulent ‘Instrument of Accession’ which never existed as documented by eminent British historian Alastair Lamb! Kashmir & Palestine are examples of illegal occupation & continued Resistance to Repression! There are so many commonalities in Kashmir & Palestine: both under brutal military occupation of foreign powers, both are facing an indigenous, popular, spontaneous & widespread Resistance & Uprising, both are in violation of UN Resolutions which haven’t been implemented, both are witnessing an attempted change in the demographic balance, both are facing the use of rape as a weapon of war, both are testimony to double-standards & hypocrisy of Western powers on human rights & fundamental rights, and both conflicts have an element of racism and Islamophobia, while enduring peace, security and stability will remain elusive in both regions, South Asia & Middle East, until these issues are resolved in accordance with popular aspirations.