Written by: Mahnaz Shujrah
Posted on: March 01, 2022 | 
| 中文
Urs at the Shrine of Mauj Darya Bukhari (Source, Youtube Mrak Films)
Several years back, I was exploring the area around Anarkali when I inadvertently came across a place I had never seen before. Situated much above ground level, there was an old, octagonal structure. From the aura surrounding it, I understood that it must be a shrine. I took my shoes off and proceeded to climb the stairs up to the complex. It almost felt like I was entering a gateway into another world, for it was so calm as compared to the hustle bustle on the street below. I asked a person sitting there whose shrine it was, to which he replied that it is Hazrat Meeran Muhammad Shah Bukhari’s tomb.
Shrine's view with the new concrete gateway
Hazrat Meeran Muhammad Shah Bukhari was a native of Uch Sharif, located near Multan in present day Pakistan. Born in 1533, Meeran Shah was a contemporary of the Mughal Emperor Akbar the Great. The Sufi saint is more commonly referred to as Mauj Darya Bukhari, for it is believed he once shifted the direction of the river Ravi to prevent it from flooding the city of Lahore. Home to many saints and shrines, Lahore has an undeniable element of mysticism to it. Even if one visits one of these shrines accidently in Lahore, it is welcoming.
Sufi silsilahs are a key feature of South Asian culture and their role is deeply intertwined with the history, culture and traditions of the land. Meeran Shah Bukhari belonged to the Suhrawardi Silsila, which originated in Multan around 1182. The founder Sheikh Bahauddin Suhrawardi, more commonly known as Bahauddin Zakariya, was a descendent of the Quresh tribe. Another important Sufi saint belonging to the Suhrawardi school is Lal Shahbaz Qalandar in Sehwan.
Courtyard of the shrine
Meeran Shah Bukhari was born to Syed Safiuddin and was a descendent of Syed Sher Shah Jalaluddin Surkhposh. His father’s spirituality and emphasis on religious education had a significant impact on Meeran Shah, and from an early age, he was drawn to religion and became hafiz-e-Quran (memorized the Quran). Meeran Shah belonged to a saintly family and soon gained his own followers because he was so devout and kind.
The emperor at the time, Jalaluddin Akbar, was a devotee of the Sufi Chishti order and other Sufi saints. He also became a follower of Meeran Shah Bukhari after the siege of Chittogarh Fort. The story goes that it was due to the advice and prayer of Meeran Shah that Akbar was able to conquer the monumental Rajput fort. Akbar was so pleased that he gave the saint two lac rupees, including an estate in Batala, near Lahore. After the Mughal victory, Meeran Shah was headed back home to Uch but remained in Lahore on Akbar’s fervent insistence. However, Meeran Shah did not wish to keep the gifts or the rewards, and instead distributed it all amongst the poor, while the residence served as a shelter.
Hazrat Meeran Shah Darya Bukhari's tomb
Saints are often associated with miraculous acts and many instances can be traced back to oral tradition. One such incident regarding Meeran Shah became famous. It is said that the advisors in Akbar’s court were unhappy and jealous with the excessive gifts given to Meeran Shah; they believed a Sufi did not need such large sums and the land could have been better utilized elsewhere. They insisted that the saint should present himself at court and show a miracle. It is believed that those belonging to the Syed family cannot be touched by fire, hence the advisors urged Akbar to ask the saint to prove this. Although, Akbar had his reservations but discussed the issue with Meeran Shah, who agreed to the test. However, upon hearing about this, Meeran Shah’s son, Syed Shahabuddin, rushed to the gathering. The guard at the gate tried to stop him, but in his anger, Syed Shahabuddin transformed himself into a lion and entered the fort. When he came close to encountering Akbar, Meeran Shah stopped Shahabuddin who reverted back into a human form and requested his father to allow him to enter the fire on his behalf, to which Meeran Shah did not agree. Meeran Shah instead asked his follower Farid to jump into the fire. Farid shouted “Allah hu Akbar”, jumped in and was not harmed. After this miracle, the advisors and the audience became followers of Meeran Shah Mauj Darya Bukhari.
Devotees at the tomb
Recently I felt an urge to go visit the shrine again. Last time I went, there was talk of the Orange Line metro train being built that would cross through the area. Over the past few years there has been debate about a heritage-based urbanization model for Lahore, since so many heritage sites were said to be impacted by the new developments. There is no doubt that Lahore needs infrastructure for its growing population, but the past must be conserved when carrying out development to cater for the expanding needs of the city. Today there is a grand station just a few steps away from the tomb. The shrine’s complex has also seen some changes, as there is a new mosque in place of the historic one and the main gate has been replaced by an unnecessarily large, concrete entranceway.
Mauj Darya Bukhari's shrine
Lahore has experienced its fair share of rise and fall throughout its history. Even though the shrine is still safely hidden like a pearl in the heart of the city, its sanctity is being pushed by the growing chaos around it. Despite the visible changes in Lahore, the hearts of the people are still drawn to the invisible powers which have held the city together up till now.
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