Written by: Sadaf Shahzad
Posted on: March 01, 2021 | 
| 中文
The Dome of Jani Khan's Tomb
One of the advantages of living in Lahore is the opportunity to venture into parts of the city that contain hidden yet fascinating histories of people lost in time. Baghbanpura, known as ‘The Town of Gardeners’ is about 5km away from the main city Lahore on the Grand Trunk (G.T. Road). Although many of the ruins exist in poor condition, they remain as a testament to the rich network of nobles that helped propel and maintain the might of the Mughal Empire in Lahore.
With the construction of the Shalimar Gardens in the 16th Century, other villages, shrines and tomb-gardens also began to cover the G.T. Road, which became places like Bhogiwal, Begumpura and Baghbanpura. Baghbanpura was inhabited by the gardeners who worked on the sprawling lands which were covered by a sharp cliff created by erosion of the River Ravi during the 16th or early 17th century. Unfortunately, over time, the gardens became reduced to residential areas, until the only Mughal-era garden that remained was the Shalimar Gardens.
Fresco Detail on the Tomb (photo credits to Lahore History)
Through the erasure of garden land, much of the history that encompassed the gardens also faded into obscurity. One such example is that of Jani Khan’s tomb, located in the southwest garden of Mahabat Khan Baghbanpura, which has a contentious history. Prominent British-era historian Kanhaiya Lal mentioned Jani Khan in his book, Tareekh-e-Lahore (History of Lahore) as the son of minister Nawab Qamar-ud Din Khan and brother of Moin-ul-Mulk, the latter being a Mughal governor and military general. Lal wrote that Jani Khan and his brother carried out a violent attack against the Afghan ruler Ahmed Shah Durrani in the mid 18th century, causing Durrani to retreat to Kabul. When Moin-ul-Mulk became Governor of the Punjab, he appointed Jani Khan as Commander of the Army till Khan’s death in 1778.
Other historians dispute this claim because it is not verified by historical records, and most probably Jani Khan was Moin-ul-Mulk’s father-in-law, not brother. When Ahmed Shah Durrani invaded Lahore in 1748, Jani Khan might have fought off the Afghan, but it is probable that he died in battle or a year later. Historians think that the real Jani Khan may be buried in another garden in Lahore.
Details on the Tomb
However, when we asked the local caretaker about the tomb, his was a completely different story altogether. Instead of referring to Jani Khan as a Mughal noble, he spoke about Jani Khan as a local saint, and referred to the building as Neela Burj (Blue Tower). But this story seems to only exist in oral tradition, and has not verified by a written source, although locals do call it the Shrine of Jani Khan. For the sake of continuity, this tomb will still be referred to as Jani Khan’s Tomb.
What makes Jani Khan special is not its disputed story, but its unique architecture and intricate fresco work. The bright, dazzling colors can still be seen on the walls and the roof, although they are chipped. Even inside, one can find Mughal era frescos and arches that were quite typical for their time. The pyramidal dome sits on top of the shrine with a low neck decorated in patterns quite similar to the Cypress Tomb of Sharf-un-Nisa Begum, which was constructed in 1735 and is located in the same vicinity.
The Cypress Tomb of Sharf-un-Nisa
Since the building was built in Baghbanpura, it is assumed that the tomb was in the centre of a large garden with a beautiful gateway, both of which are no longer present. Although they have closed off the tomb premises to visitors, inside there are three unmarked graves and it is difficult to discern which of these belong to Jani Khan, if he really is buried there.
Inside the Tomb (photo credits to Lahore History)
Such is the case with many tombs located in Baghbanpura, whose true history we may never be able to uncover. It is a strange sight to see old heritage monuments stand amongst residential areas and shoddy wiring, without clear demarcations and safety precautions. Many other tombs around this area exist, like Mian Khan’s Tomb, Dai Anga’s Tomb and the Cyprus Tomb. It would be worthwhile for the local government to introduce heritage walks and trails around these enigmatic and underrated monuments, to generate interest in the area and the people within these tombs. It is equally important to preserve these monuments, for they complete the vast and multifaceted history of Lahore.
The Tomb from the Front
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