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    Kamran Ki Baradari (Kamran's Pavilion), Lahore

    Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
    Posted on: April 16, 2018 | | 中文

    Kamran ki Baradari

    Over the centuries, various dynasties have risen and fallen, and together have formed Lahore’s distinct identity. The renowned writer, Bapsi Sidhwa, once described the city as, “the handmaiden of dimly remembered Hindu kings, the courtesan of Mughal emperors, the Paris of the East.” Though many invaders and rulers have reigned both before and after them, it’s arguably the Mughals that Lahore’s glorious past is most firmly entwined with; replete with the grandeur of royal mosques, the charm of the walled city, the rows of natural jewels of the mighty gardens and the stupefying enormity of the Lahore fort. Amidst all this sheen and might, the first ever Mughal structure in Lahore, Kamran ki Baradari, rarely gets mentioned.

    Kamran Mirza was the second son of the first Mughal emperor, Babur, and brother of the second emperor, Humayun. Details about his life have mostly been relegated to the margins of history, yet the structure he built still stands as a reminder of his existence. Kamran laid the foundation of this garden by the bank of river Ravi in 1540, hosting a baradari (a pavilion with 12 doors). Its original purpose was to be used as a summer pavilion. Nestled inside the bustling neighbourhood of Shahdara, it’s the only relic in this area that isn’t primarily a royal mausoleum; the other gardens host the tombs of Jahangir, Noor Jehan, Asif Khan and Zeb un Nissa Begum. The Mughal rulers after Mirza, added and renovated parts of the baradari. When Punjab fell to the British, they used the baradari as a toll collection centre for the passing boats. The ebb and flow of the river has damaged the structure; at times severely damaging the upper storey and part of the basic structure. It was only in 1990s that serious conservation work was undertaken, and the pavilion was restored somewhat to its original worth.

    River Ravi

    River Ravi

    With the changing course of Ravi, the geographical location of the baradari changed dramatically. What was once located besides a river is now located in the middle of an island, and can only be accessed conveniently by boats. There’s a small, designated, free parking area at the other end of the river. The journey atop the waters is taken with the help of two boats: one rowboat and one motorboat. However, there are no pleasant, bitter-sweet reminders of the past as you occasionally start spotting the baradari behind the green of the trees. For almost the entire journey, the most overwhelming sensation remains the burning of your nostrils. Ravi here looks nothing like a river; it’s one big cesspool of waste and garbage - the dumping spot of a megacity’s excreta. So here’s a mandatory warning: protect your nose well if you plan to make this trip.

    A view of the baradari through the trees

    A view of the baradari through the trees

    But much consolation is had when you’ve reached the other end of the water-body. The baradari looks glorious and the gardens have all the luscious colours of nature. Much of the credit for this goes to the conservation authorities. Though there are areas for improvement (the fountains for one), yet overall the place isn’t as neglected as one would have expected, after visiting other heritage sites of the country.

    The baradari itself is located at one extreme of the compound, overlooking the Ravi at one end and the geometrically laid out gardens at the other end. However, this wasn't the original design of the area, and strokes of natural calamities have much to their credit here. Some historians go a step further and pose questions regarding the attribution of the Baradari to Kamran. The garden was his, they agree, but the specific designs in the actual baradari make it chronologically fitter for the times of Akbar or Shahjahan. However, oral tradition has been kinder to Kamran, even if this wasn’t his doing, and there’s little we should be complaining about.

    One of the doors of the pavilion

    One of the doors of the pavilion

    The baradari, with its beautiful work and engaging patterns, is a treat to behold. The upper storeys are also open, and they provide a great spot for taking pictures, besides affording some wonderful views of the area. A stroll in the gardens is another treat, even though they are remarkably smaller in scale than some other Mughal gardens in Lahore. Tourists flock the region, some for having a picnic at the baradari, many for paying respects at the adjoining shrine of a Sufi saint. The wild pace of the city eases for a moment, while at this peaceful abode of a foregone era.

    Kamran ki baradari

    Kamran ki baradari

    On the way back, however, you’re made to wait. At times the wait can be for extremely long durations, as the boats arrive and take you back. The rule is that they charge you for one side, and you have to wait for the boats to fill up before they come to drop their new passengers and pick you up. This, and the smelly water body, is the only serious impediment to hailing Kamran Ki Baradari as a wonderful tourist attraction of Lahore.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

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    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021