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    Lakshmi Chowk: Ode to a Changing Lahore

    Written by: Moiz Abdul Majid
    Posted on: January 22, 2020 | | 中文

    (Left) The Lakshmi Building before 2011 and (Right) The Lakshmi Building after 2011

    In 2015, the Lahore Bachao Tehreek was actively working on trying to save Lahore’s monuments from the destructive effects of the Orange Line Metro. Though the movement had started for, and focused on Chauburji, another massively important monument that the activists were trying to protect, was the iconic Lakshmi building.

    Located at the intersection of McLeod Road, Nisbat Road, and Abbot Road of Old Lahore, the Lakshmi building has been a part of the Lahori cityscape for a long time. Its old-fashioned, British-era façade is a testament to Indo-British architecture, with high arches and Art Deco style. From the beginnings of the country, the Lakshmi building was known as a hub for cinema and culture within the city. In fact, the famous intersection has been named after the building, as opposed to the other way around.

    The monument started out as the mansion of Sir Shadi Lal, the first Indian High Court Judge in India. In 1930, he sold the building to Lala Rajpat Rai’s Lakshmi Insurance Corporation. After that, the building was turned into an office and residential complex, known by its name for two reasons: it was owned by the Lakshmi Corporation, and building’s main façade featured a statue of Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and purity (the statue was destroyed after Partition). The building is one of the two Lakshmi buildings owned by the same corporation. The second is in Karachi, and was inaugurated in 1938 by Mrs. Sarojini Naidu.

    After Partition, the building in Lahore housed the Muslim League’s office for some time, and served as home for various important personalities. Renowned writer Sadat Hassan Manto used to live in the building, along with his daughter Nighat Patel, and his nephew Hamid Jalal (father of academic Ayesha Jalal). The building also housed a former Prime Minister of Pakistan, Meraj Khalid and Najam Sethi.

    The Ishwar Das Building on Lakshmi Chowk

    Given the special history of the building, it was declared as a building of historical importance by the Government of Punjab under the Punjab Special Premises (Preservation) Ordinance of 1985. There was a huge outcry in 2011, when the building’s iconic monotone façade was painted bright blue, a violation of the structure’s status as a preserved site.

    Despite the change in the appearance of the building with its newly acquired blue façade, the area around the building has been an important part of the Lahori experience and imagination for a long time.

    The Royal Park Film Market near Lakshmi Chowk was once a center of the film industry in India, and then in Pakistan. Known as one of the world’s largest film markets, it housed several studios and production houses, including Mahboob Pictures, the production house behind the film “Mother India”. Not only that, the area had been frequented by various celebrities such as Om Prakash, Madam Nur Jehan, and Sultan Rahi. It was also the place that launched the careers of those such as Muhammad Rafi and Balraj Sahni.

    Cinemas at Lakshmi Chowk Now

    Today, however, the market is a ruin of its former self because studios and production houses have moved out. What remain are the dilapidated buildings like Rattan Cinema, which are only a phantom of a vibrant and glorious cinematic past.

    Rattan Cinema in the 1940s

    With the death of the film industry in the area, Lakshmi Chowk then gained popularity as a true food lover’s haven. One thing that all Lahoris associate with Lakshmi Chowk is the famous Butt Karahi, known for its delicious and timeless Chicken curry dishes. Nowadays, the area around the building and chowk have become home to quite a few food outlets, enough for the government to think about creating another food street. However, nothing has been done to follow up on this idea so far.

    Butt Karhai

    In 2019, the area made headlines again when the Chowk’s name was changed from Lakshmi Chowk to Maulana Zafar Ali Khan Chowk, named after the anti-colonialist poet and journalist. This led to an outcry on social media, for many believed it was an attempt to erase the non-Muslim history of the Chowk. The name was then changed back to Lakshmi Chowk, and so it will remain in the hearts and minds of the Lahoris. Lakshmi Building and Lakshmi Chowk has seen all the changing faces of the city, but resolutely remains as a time capsule of architectural and historical wonder.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021