Written by: Mahnoor Fatima
Posted on: November 18, 2019 | 
| 中文
The Balochistan Pavilion Entrance
In a distant corner of Islamabad, deep within the Shakarparian forest, there is a rumble that pulls all towards it. Crowds of people arrive in colorful clothes, many with their families and friends. There is music, food, dancing and of course, the purchasing of handicrafts, clothes, shoes and shawls among other things. And no one is afraid of a good bargain.
The Lok Mela festival takes place annually at Lok Virsa Museum, in which people from all provinces and segments of society come together to celebrate Pakistan’s culture. Some come to learn, others to buy, and some simply wish to see familiar faces, and speak their mother tongues with those who understand them.
The Punjab Pavilion
Historically, melas (festivals) in South Asia have always brought together people from neighboring villages through special performances, foods and attractions. They occur during national or religious holidays, or to simply celebrate the changing of the season. Festivals have not just been places for fun and socializing, but also learning opportunities for people who did not otherwise receive much formal education.
In this same spirit, Lok Mela allows Pakistanis to come together for a modern day mela that is inclusive and diverse. Lok Virsa is responsible for bringing craftsmen from all corners of Pakistan to the capital, for a whole week. People learn from each other, and discover new and interesting parts of the country they may not otherwise have known. And this does not just stand for the visitors, but also the vendors, who often interact with one another when they take a break from stall duties.
(Left) Textile Work Stall, Balochi Shirts with Designs (Center), Chunri Dupattay and Suits (Right)
As always, the festival is divided into multiple pavilions dedicated to various provinces and areas of Pakistan. The Punjab and Khyber Pakthunkhuwa (KPK) pavilions have been fan-favorites, because of their familiar and popular dishes and handicrafts. But the Sindh and Balochistan pavilions are interesting, because they allow one to by goods, and interact with people and crafts that they might not otherwise come across in their daily lives.
And very close by, are the Azad Kashmir and Gilgit-Baltistan pavilions, with authentic food and souvenirs from their respective areas. Splashed across the backdrop of these pavilions, are the breathtaking views from both regions. Each section also has an informational stall, which allows one to ask questions and learn about tourism sites there.
Some personal favorites stalls include Sindhi khussas, Pakthun jewelry, Balochi leather embroidery and Punjabi truck art decorations. There will be many stalls selling the same product, so visitors do get a lot of variety. Many stalls also offer deliciously authentic food, for both meals and snacks, with equally long lines for the sarson ka saag from Punjab, and the chapli kebab from KPK. And food stalls vendors are more than happy to offer visitors tasting samples.
(Left) Truck Art Furniture and Mohenjo Daro Replicas (Right)
One notable stall member was “Prince Mahir”, an experienced journalist who has traveled the world, and is currently selling jewelry in the KPK Pavilion. He wears a rich green coat of coins, as he moves through his stall, and will envelope visitors in a conversation about traveling and culture. One would also be surprised to find Karimabad’s “Auntie”, selling her famous Chaap Shooro and Dawdo soup in the Gilgit Baltistan Pavilion, with the same wonderful and easy-going spirit for which she is famous.
(Left) Auntie Making Chaap Shoro and Prince Mahir's Jewelry Stall (Right)
However, it is worth noting that there was not as much of a crowd as seen at earlier Lok Melas. This may perhaps change in the later parts of the day, and later dates of the festival. But recent political and economic circumstances, as well as the change from a spring festival to a winter festival, have led to hiked prices and less participation than in the recent years.
(Left) Fresh Mamtu at the GB Pavilion and Dahi Bhallay Stall (Right)
Nevertheless, stall owners remain hopeful that more people will arrive, once the weather improves and the roads clear. Schools, universities and organizations from nearby often schedule day trips to the festival so as to encourage people to visit.
The evenings feature dances and performances by people of the different parts of Pakistan. Each night is devoted to a separate province. But if one does not wish to stay till evening, there are always different performances taking place during the day. One can interact with people in their traditional clothes, who are either playing their instruments or doing live-crafting (though it is important to remind visitors to ask for performers and vendors consent before taking their pictures/videos).
Performance at the Punjabi Pavilion
People often return to Lok Mela, to see old friends, to buy good quality handicrafts or simply because going to Lok Mela has become a tradition itself. The continuation of such equal spaces are important for cultural diversity to be learned and preserved by Pakistan in the years to come, especially those which are dying out. Spaces like Lok Mela preserve crafts and traditions by encouraging people to study and document their techniques, thereby saving them from fading away with the passage of time.
Sindhi Ajrak Designs
Do visit Lok Mela, and do not be afraid to speak to the vendors, have conversations with people, and learn about the lives and crafts of the people of Pakistan. Lok Mela will continue at Lok Virsa Musuem from 10:00AM to 9:00 PM, till 24th November. For events like this, Click here.
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