Written by: Haroon Shuaib
Posted on: April 03, 2023 | 
| 中文
(L to R) Fatima Jinnah, Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah, Liaquat Ali Khan and Begum Ra'ana Liaquat Ali Khan arrive at Gul-e-Rana residence of Liaquat Ali Khan in Delhi, 1946
In a country, ethnic and folk dresses of each region, state, or province demonstrate its traditions and diversity, while national clothing reflects the identity of the people. Factors such as predominant faith, economy, climate and global influences shape the wardrobe at the national level. Influencers from political and media play an important role in popularizing these trends.
Pakistanis can undoubtedly be credited for having a fine sense of style and fashion when it comes to the national wardrobe. National sartorial culture of Pakistan has remained rooted in convention but has also been accepting of global trends. Pakistani wardrobe’s fabrics, cuts, and embroidery are recognized across the world for quality, grace, and finery. From Princess Diana gladly donning a shalwar kameez in 1996 to the super model Gigi Hadid wearing a Pakistani brand in 2018, dozens of Pakistani fashion brands including Khaadi, Bareeze, and Elan have made a mark internationally. Recently Indian celebrities such as Shahrukh Khan, Karan Johar, Kareena Kapoor, and Swara Bhaskar picked Pakistani fashion brands and designers as their choice for special occasions.
Late Princess Diana in a shalwar kameez
The fascination at the global level with Pakistan’s national wardrobe is nothing new or surprising considering the father of the nation himself was always immaculately dressed. Quaid-e-Azam Mohmmad Ali Jinnah was impeccably turned out, whether in his bespoke suits tailored by Messers Lesley and Roberts London, Watson Fagerstrom and Hughes Ltd London, Laffan's Bombay, or his perfectly tailored Achkans from Muhammad Tailors of Dehli. According to his biographer Stanely Wolpert, he “came to own over 200 suits, which he wore with heavily starched shirts with detachable collars, and as a barrister took pride in never wearing the same silk tie twice.”
This same taste for clothing was reflected throughout the ‘50s by his companions and prodigies, such as Sardar Abdur Rab Nishter, Liaquat Ali Khan and Huseyn Shaheed Suhrawardy. Jinnah’s particular kurakul hat was so iconic that it came to be known as the Jinnah cap. ‘50s were a time when Pakistanis were dressing to impress. Pakistani fashion during the ‘50s was tasteful and forging a new path.
Students of Karachi University during the '70s
Pakistani women were not far behind the men in the ‘50s. The grace exuded by Quaid-e-Azam’s sister Fatima Jinnah and his most notable companion’s wife Rana Liaqat Ali Khan’s ghararas, a traditional Subcontinental style of wide-legged pants paired with a Kurti and a Dupatta, is unmissable in the archive photos.
The same dressing style was reflected in the popular cinema where stalwarts like Syed Musa Abbas, better known as Santosh Kumar, and his equally handsome brother, Syed Ishrat Abbas, better known by his screen name Darpan, embraced the same crisp look in white kurta and straight pajamas, or suits in western wear. Minimally adorned ghararas and neatly cut shalwar kameez for women were popularized by cinema icons, Noor Jehan and Sabeeha Khannum. Long hair often tied in neat buns, big lashes and muted makeup coupled with heavier jewelry including jhoomars and jhumkas, were favored by Pakistani women of the ‘50s in films.
Shamim Ara
The ‘60s introduced a bolder winged eyeliner, bouffant hairstyles, and fancy outfits for women, especially on formal occasions. High neck kurtas, cigarette pants and flowers in the hair were a staple look for Pakistani women of the ‘60s. This glammed up look was popularized by cinema icons such as Shamim Ara and Shaheen Bano a.k.a. Zeba. It was also a time when global influences started making an impact on Pakistan’s national wardrobe and was reflected in the growing club-culture and ‘high society’ lifestyle. Women also started embracing a mix of maxi dresses and gowns. Sleeveless short shirts in bright colors with half calf trousers or bell bottoms were also popular. While silver screen idol Mohammad Ali was leading the style wave for more mature men with his dark three-piece suits, the younger lot was modelling their wardrobe after the new-kid-on-the-block, the chocolate hero Waheed Murad. The ko ko korina star’s light-colored wardrobe was an inspiration for college and university students from Peshawar to Karachi and Dhaka. In fact, Waheed Murad’s influence on style and popular culture was so strong that his hair style was copied, to some degree, by every young man. In eastern wear, men were donning a black shawl over a shalwar kameez.
Waheed Murad
It was during the ‘60s that the Pakistani style peaked when Pierre Cardin was engaged to design the uniform for the cabin crew of the national carrier, ‘Pakistan International Airline’ (PIA). The uniform that Pierre Cardin designed for the airhostess squad of PIA became an instant hit. The slim-line trousers were dubbed immediately as 'PIA Pajamas', and the PIA look was copied across Pakistan by young ladies. The PIA pajama was coupled with an 'A' line tunic and as the national airline touched the tarmacs across the world, the world was smitten by the elegance and trendiness of Pakistani airhostesses.
Pierre Cardin designed PIA uniform in 1966
By the ‘70s the Pakistani apparel had found its footing and the range of dresses for men and women had expanded. The ‘70s was the time when hippy culture had arrived in the subcontinent. Television had become a household phenomenon, and western inspired clean cut shalwar kameez had gained popularity amongst the young girls. Roohi Bano, Saira Kazmi and Khalida Riasat were inspiring a new brigade of urbane, educated, middle class female population. In cinema this inspiration was provided by Shabnam, Rani, Mumtaz, and Nisho. For men Rahat Kazmi and Shakeel on TV popularized wide collared shirts and on cinema screens Nadeem, Shahid, and Ghulam Mohiyyudin were donning similar attires consisting of flaired pants, floral shirts, bell-bottomed jeans, chunky jewelry and accessories.
It was during the ‘70s that the newly elected Prime Minister of Pakistan, Zulfikar Ali Bhutto appeared in public wearing Mao caps and Mao jackets. It is reported that, ‘at least on one occasion, the entire Bhutto cabinet was photographed dressed in Mao coats (Zhongshan suits). He also introduced Awami suit to the men’s wardrobe. His wife Nusrat Bhutto on the other hand was a true fashionista and experimented with soft pin-curls and fox fur boleros. The former first lady’s peaches and cream complexion, thanks to her Iranian lineage, was complimented perfectly by her signature pearl necklace and bold rouge-stained lips. Her iconic bold print chiffon saris and flared shalwars were the new trend for the high society begamats of the ‘70s.
Nusrat Bhutto
‘70s was the decade when Pakistan’s first formal fashion brand, TeeJays, founded by Tanveer Jamshed emerged on the fashion scene. Another very influential designer was Maheen Khan, who had started designing during later part of ‘60s, and she also continued designing women’s wardrobes during the ‘70s. To her credit are the glamourous outfits seen in TV serials in that decade. So strong has been her influence in defining the country’s fashion landscape that she is often dubbed as the ‘Coco Mademoiselle of Pakistan’.
By the end of 70s, with Pakistan’s political history taking an unexpected turn, Pakistan’s national wardrobe was also about to embark on a new chapter.
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