Written by: Zoon Ahmed Khan
Posted on: May 24, 2018 | 
| 中文
Maghrib prayers in the main hall of NiuJie Mosque
Fatima tugged her scarf tighter around her porcelain neck as she demonstrated her vibrant collection of kameez and kurtas with immense pride. The spark in her eyes was strangely contagious and the poise with which she carried her abaya reeked of pure elegance. She flaunted her frequent travels to Lahore, Peshawar, and Islamabad, and her deep knowledge of trending fashions and fabrics. As she pulled at a red kameez embellished with ivory and turquoise paisleys, her swift glance shifted to a white clock at the entrance, with a Kalima carved in gold. Tick-tock, the clock would strike 7:30 any minute now. This is the time when she will break her fast with a prayer. Fatima’s Little-Pakistan - complete with prayer mats, paintings, clocks, and clothes - is located in one of Beijing’s most historic and eminent neighborhoods: NiuJie.
Beijing, the city that never stops to live, and never truly sleeps, is home to all walks of life and beliefs. Between the symmetry of the streets and modern buildings is hidden history. A corner, a square, a roof, for the past 1,000 years, has represented the chance for Muslims from China and world over to pray together. This is one of China’s oldest and largest mosques: NiuJie Mosque. NiuJie translates to ‘Ox-Street.’ Rumor has it that the area was named after the cows Muslims slaughtered for Eid every year. But even though it’s hard to tell which came first, the Ox or the Mosque, today NiuJie depicts the spirit of brotherhood that any Muslim craves for in the holy month of Ramadan.
Fatima walks a few hundred meters to the mosque every evening with the Maghrib Azaan. She and her family have lived in Beijing for generations. It is routine for her to pass by dozens of Halal snack shops with Chinese characteristics, while walking towards the NiuJie Mosque. As she enters, men, women and children are welcomed by the red velvet ‘Ramadan Mubarak’ banner hung up in the hutong structure, erected by her ancestors over 1,000 years ago. Meandering through the various rooms of this historic and graceful mosque, are people carrying trays of dates and dried fruits, for everyone joining the ‘iftar’ after the maghrib prayers.
After the maghrib prayers, we join a queue, lining up for our serving of meat and vegetable buns, a typical food item for the Muslims residing here. Among these Hui Chinese and many who trace their roots from the Western regions of China, are also Muslims from other parts of the world. Some of them, just like our little group, come from different countries, but now call Beijing home.
Ramadan in China is a month to celebrate, come together and cherish a deep bond between Muslims of different parts of the world. The NiuJie neighborhood, which attracts tourists and worshippers all year round, has become a place of festivity and resounding friendliness. Charity organizations inside the mosque have set up a kitchen, run by people from the neighborhood. Just a simple ‘Assalamo Alaikum’ breaks the ice and all barriers of culture and language dissolve.
While China is more well-known as a communist country with a strict code for religion, according to conservative estimates, it is home to over 20 million Muslims. That makes for 1-2 % of the population. The predominant Muslim population in China’s capital city is of Hui ethnicity, but a lot of the Uighur Muslims, and those of other regions, have also migrated to the city for better opportunities. These communities form a significant part of the capital’s vibrant culture and cuisine. Added to this population are the tens of thousands of Muslims from all over the Belt and Road countries, who have also made the city their home. For these people, Ramadan is another reminder of a spirit of unity and also the strong connection China has with its Muslim citizens.
Muslims have added to the history and magnificence of the Chinese Civilization, ever since the first mosque in China was built in Xi’an during the Tang Dynasty, back in the 8th century. Today, there are over 39,000 mosques all over the country and the Chinese, Muslims and non-Muslims alike, have nurtured and interacted with Islamic art, music, and literature in these areas.
Just like any minority, the Muslims of China have also held on to their beliefs and carried them on for generations. Fatima is one such Muslim, who enjoys the month of Ramadan and associates it with joy, patience, and passion for healing of the body and soul, ever since she was a child. With her children, she intends to keep the tradition alive, which her ancestors have imparted for centuries. Today, she feels even more elated to meet Muslims from other countries in her city. This, she believes, will deepen her own understanding of her faith. For those of us, who have imagined to be less festive than it is with our own families but in NiuJie we find an opportunity to feel less distant from home.
All images provided by the writer unless mentioned otherwise. Ramadan in China
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