Written by: Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro
Posted on: December 05, 2024 | 
| 中文
A view of Gaj Valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
Gaj Valley, situated in the Khirthar Range in Sindh’s Dadu District, is a captivating landscape rich in prehistory and history. This valley is famous for its numerous rock art sites, which I discovered during my research trips. The rugged cliffs and towering rock faces serve as canvases for ancient expressions, whispering tales of the past to those who take the time to observe the engravings left by previous generations.
The rock art discovered in Gaj Valley is classified into two main categories: prehistoric and historic periods. The prehistoric artworks are particularly mesmerizing, featuring intricate petroglyphs that depict hunting, footprints, handprints, animals, anthropomorphic figures, cup-marks and more. Paintings are also found, but at very few places in the valley. These images, skillfully etched into the stone by skilled hands long ago, evoke a profound connection to the early inhabitants of the Gaj Valley.
Cup-marks in Gaj Valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
In contrast, historic rock art reveals a different narrative, showcasing the influences of diverse cultures that have traversed this land over centuries, introducing new themes. The most notable new themes came from the Buddhist and Zoroastrian religions. Through my explorations of the Khirthar range and beyond, I discovered many rock art sites in the Gaj Valley, developing a deep admiration for rock art as a remarkable artistic achievement and an essential window into the cultural and historical tapestry of Sindh. Each expedition revealed new layers of significance, fueling my passion for exploring even more sites.
The rock art of Gaj Valley showcases a variety of captivating themes, but the most striking is the frequent depiction of animal and anthropomorphic figures. These representations are present at almost every rock art site I explored in the Gaj Valley. Bulls are particularly noteworthy among the various animals depicted. Their imagery appears consistently in both prehistoric and historic rock art, suggesting their importance in the cultural and social contexts of the communities that created the images. In the serene landscape of Shakloi Dhoro, one finds bull representations, primarily from the prehistoric era. These images are found at the rock art site of Chiti, where visitors can marvel at a striking array of intricate bull images etched into stone. These depictions not only highlight the artistry of the prehistoric communities but also reflect their reverence for these magnificent animals, which played a significant role in their lives.
An engraving of a bull in Gaj Valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
Beyond the impressive bulls, the Chiti rock art site features other animal drawings that capture the diversity of wildlife that once roamed this ancient landscape. These illustrations serve as a visual narrative of the fauna that early inhabitants encountered and interacted with, enriching our understanding of their environment.
The rock art of the Gaj Valley represents several Buddhist stupas, testifying to Buddhism's enduring influence in the region. These stupas, depicted alongside prehistoric imagery, bridge the gap between ancient and more recent cultural practices. Together, they create a rich tapestry of human expression, offering invaluable insights into the beliefs, traditions and artistic endeavors of the cultures and religions that once thrived in Sindh in general, and Gaj Valley in particular.
A stupa engraving in Gaj Valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The rock art of Gaj Valley also features camels. Among these engravings, one can find scenes with camels depicted both in groups and as solitary figures, each engraved with remarkable detail by the artisans of the past. Some portrayals illustrate entire camel caravans, complete with passengers and goods, reflecting the importance of trade and transportation in ancient times. In other instances, the camels are depicted alongside their cameleers.
Depictions of camels with cameleers in Gaj Valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The depiction of camel caravans is particularly remarkable. I have seen similar engravings of camel caravans in the nearby Makhi Valley. During my explorations in the Gaj Valley, I also visited the Makhi Valley multiple times to study and document the rock art there. The Makhi Valley is home to several rock art sites I discovered over two decades of research. On the way to Makhi Valley from Gaj Valley, I came across a few commemorative towers, locally called Chura, which are part of the cultural landscape of the Gaj Valley. My travels through various valleys in search of rock carvings have allowed me to witness these engravings' incredible artistry and cultural significance firsthand, fostering a deep appreciation for the stories they convey.
Interestingly, the rock art found in Gaj Valley represents several images of the Bactrian camels, which are now extinct in the Sindh province. This ancient representation offers valuable insight into the historical significance of this unique camel breed, which has two humps and is native to Central Asia.
Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro in Gaj Valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
One of the most striking engravings of the Bactrian camel can be seen at the Zahargani Thal rock art site, where the dexterity and detail of the depiction are truly impressive. In addition to Gaj Valley, representations of Bactrian camels have also been discovered in other valleys across Sindh. For instance, in the Mol Valley, situated in Karachi’s Malir district, one can see a representation of a Bactrian camel. Notably, a captivating depiction of a Bactrian camel is engraved near the depiction of a Buddhist stupa at the Lahut Tar rock art site. The presence of such artwork not only enriches our understanding of the Bactrian camel's role in ancient society but also emphasizes the artistic heritage preserved in these remarkable rock art sites.
Sindh's rock art traditions are particularly vibrant in the Gaj Valley, where the region's cultural heritage manifests through contemporary carvings. These modern rock engravings are notable for their striking depictions of various weapons, prominently featuring guns and Kalashnikovs. In the area known as Met Dhoro, which is a tributary of the Gaj Valley, one can find an intriguing anthropomorphic figure gripping a Kalashnikov, highlighting the fusion of traditional art with modern themes. The artistic expressions in this site extend beyond weaponry; they include detailed representations of local wildlife, such as ibex and deer, as well as additional anthropomorphic figures that appear to be engaged in hunting, aimed at their quarry with firearms. Depictions of warriors can be seen fighting on horseback, armed with swords and guns. These representations are found throughout the different valleys of the Khirthar range in Sindh. Some of the images are ancient, while others have been recently created by herders, often with their names inscribed near the drawings.
A view of Met Dhoro in Gaj Valley. (Picture credits to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro)
The significance of the past is highlighted by ancient engravings discovered in Gaj’s Met Dhoro. Among these engravings is a striking figure wearing a Kushan cloak, which underscores the profound influence of the Kushan Empire on the culture of Sindh. This figure may represent a deity or a king from the Kushan period, providing a fascinating insight into the historical narratives and beliefs that have shaped the Sindh province over the centuries.
The writer is an anthropologist. He has authored 16 books on Pakistan's cultural heritage and anthropology. He tweets @kalhorozulfiqar.
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