Written by: Muhammad Awais
Posted on: March 31, 2021 | 
| 中文
A Building at the Amb Temples
During the pandemic, it has been a personal mission to find tourist destinations that are off the beaten track. Sakesar peak is one such place that holds a treasure trove of sites to explore, nestled between Punjab and the Potohar Plateau. It the highest point of the Potohar Plateau at a little under 5,000ft (1,522 metres). Below it is the beautifully picturesque and oft-overlooked Soan Valley, home to barren landscapes intermingling with lush greenery. Sakesar and the Soan Valley overall, are arguably some of the most underrated travel destinations in Pakistan. It represents the best of the Pothohar’s beauty, and boasts a rich history that covers Ancient Buddhist, Hindu, Mughal, Sikh and British periods.
The Temple and the Potohar Hill
One can reach the valley by exiting the M-2 motorway from Islamabad to Lahore at the Kallar Kahar exit, onwards to the city of Nowshera, and further to the town of Chakwal. While this route takes about four hours, but the route our party took from the Sargodha-Mianwali exchange takes a little under two hours. However, since most of the area is under the control of the Pakistan Air Force, it is difficult to stay in Sakesar without their permission.
Our first stop was the Amb Temples, a hidden temple complex that was once part of a large fortification that has slowly eroded over the years. It took us an hour to reach there from the town of Quaidabad, driving past rolling hills and charming little streams. What we found on top of the cliff was a fascinating collection of old ruins overlooking the incredible valley.
The Smaller Temple at the edge of the cliff
Amb Temples are estimated to have been built in the 5th Century BC, and belong to a Hindu Shahi Dynasty. They ruled over what is now the Potohar between the 6th BC and 10th Century CE, after the demise of the Kushan Empire. While not much is known about this dynasty, the architectural style of the temple is very similar to the Tilla Jogian complex, Nandana temples and even the Kafir Kot complex in Dera Ismail Khan. All of these complexes seemed to have been a part of an ancient belt of Hindu Shahi temples across the Salt Range.
After ruling the area for 500 years, the Hindus fled the area with the arrival of Mehmood of Ghazni in the 10th Century CE, and activity around the temple came to an end. After Partition, Amb Temples became Amb Sharif, named after the mosque atop the hill. Currently, two main buildings still exist at the complex: the three-storied temple, and prayer chambers. Needless to say, although these buildings are intact, they are not in a good condition and in need of conservation.
Details on the Temple Walls
Walking around the area, one can imagine that this must have been a site of grandeur. Situated on a safe and breathtaking hill, this large fortification was said to have multiple chambers and large sculptures of Hindu deities. The brickwork is very unique, with Kashmiri motifs and a round tower, as opposed to the conventional pointed tops, much like the buildings of Kafirkot. Though the area is already surrounded by natural beauty and vegetation, it once had rushing streams and fig gardens.
The View of the Potohar from the Temple
However, the rich heritage that Amb Temples and the valley possess, is under threat. The three-story temple is being held together by shoddy beams, and many tourists damage the structures by standing on the roof to take pictures. Many of the relics found were shifted to the Lahore Museum during the British era, and were either destroyed or mysteriously vanished. However, occasionally locals still find old clay pots and coins but there is no place to catalog or preserve them.
The Entrance Details
After exploring this beautiful yet desolate area, the locals recommended we drive to the largest lake of the valley, Uchali Lake, for a small picnic. While there was a shortcut from the Amb Temples to Uchali Lake, locals strongly advised us against it, as there is only a dirt track which is dangerous for even the most robust SUVs. Therefore, we returned to Sakesar, and descended to Uchali through a longer, yet safer route.
Uchali Lake itself is a small saltwater lake that formed due to a large accumulation of rainwater and no drainage. There is a dirt pathway in the middle, which allows people to walk next to the water while taking in the surroundings. It is a peaceful, still lake surrounded by a thinly populated area where not many tourists linger. The lake is also home to a rare species of duck, and migratory birds that fly all the way from Siberia in the summers. Though there are not many activities to do, one can have tea in one of the many British-era gazebos, or take a boat ride and marvel at the looming presence of Sakesar mountaintop, and the other hills surrounding the lake.
Uchali Lake
While our visit left quite an impression on us, there is still a lot left to explore during another trip in the future. There are other lakes around Soan Valley like Khabbiki Lake, and other interesting sites include the Kanhati Gardens, Tujala Temple Complex, Arkanda Fort to name a few. These places are within two hours of Sakesar, and definitely seem worth exploring.
Some of the Birds Seen at Sakesar
There is much potential for Soan Valley as a great and profitable tourist destination, but much work has to be done to incentivize people to stay and explore the area. By building roads, setting up signs and ensuring the protection of the sites present in the area, the government can count on tourists to visit in hopes of exploring and seeing the beauty of Soan Valley in all its splendor.
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