Written by: Sadaf Shahzad
Posted on: April 14, 2021 | 
| 中文
Serving Roof Afzah During The Summers
As the month of Ramadan arrives in the Muslim world, the Indian Subcontinent in particular, preps for this month by stocking on their favorite snacks and treats to break the fast. No Ramadan is complete without the traditional red ‘sharbat’ or ‘beverage’ to immediately parch the thirst of a long day spent fasting. Prepared largely using flowers, fruits and herbal syrups, Sharbats are not just sweet refreshments, but also a significant part of people’s childhoods in Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, and a staple in Muslim households.
‘Sharbat’ comes from the Arabic word meaning ‘to drink’, and as the beverage spread to the Persian world, it became a term that indicated any sweet non-alcoholic beverage. It is primarily a naturally made, sweet drink that is associated with Asian and Middle Eastern countries. Sharbats can encompass a broad range of ingredients, colors and offer multiple health benefits, besides refreshment. The earliest Sharbat recipes can be found as early as the 11th Century ‘Canon of Medicine’ by Persian Writer Ibn-e-Sina, and sharbats themselves slowly spread to Europe and other parts of Asia. Particularly, this Persian drink entered the Indian Subcontinent via the Mughals in the 16th Century, with Emperor Babur specifically ordering ice from the Himalayas to add to his refreshments.
The Original Hamdard Laboratories in Dehli, 1920
However, the story of the modern South Asian Sharbat, which is popularly called Rooh Afzah, started in an herbal apothecary in Delhi in 1906. Hakim Hafiz Abdul Majid of Hamdard Laboratories wanted to concoct a drink that would prevent dehydration and keep the residents of Dehli cool in the hot summers. As an expert of ‘Unani’ (traditional herbal medicine practiced in South and Central Asia) principles and Hindu Ayurvedic health practices, he came up with a drink that countered heat strokes, heart palpitations and prevent water loss. He named it ‘Soul Elixr’ or ‘Rooh Afzah’, and changed it from a medicine to a refreshment drink some years later.
Mirza Noor Ahmad, the artist prepared a unique and vibrant label to help the Hakim’s product sell in 1910. Since that kind of color could not be processed in Delhi at the time, the label was made by the Bolton Press of the Parsees of Bombay (Mumbai). According to the grandchildren of the Hakim, the first batch was sold out in an hour, and customers thronged into the tight Delhi streets to try this new refreshment.
As the Indian Subcontinent divided into Pakistan and India in 1947, so too did the Hamdard Industries of Hakim split between Hakim Majid’s sons. While Hakim Abdul Hameed stayed in India, his younger brother Hakim Mohammad Said settled in the Aramgah district of Karachi, Pakistan. This new Pakistani version relied on locally produced ingredients, but the iconic label and basic recipe have remained the same. However, starting from scratch and developing a consumer base in the newly independent Pakistan was an arduous process.
Hakim Mohammad Said
It wasn’t until 1953 that the company began to churn a profit and become ‘waqf’ or a Muslim endowment entity. It acted as a not-for-profit corporation under Islamic law that would offer educational and medical service provisions alongside the product. Another Hamdard branch was opened in Dhaka, then-East Pakistan, in the 1950s. When East Pakistan became Bangladesh, following the war of 1971, Hakim Said gifted the Dhaka Branch of ‘Hamdard’ to its workers and managers to run independently.
A Rooh Afzah Advertisement from the 1950s and A Rooh Afzah Advertisment from the 1980s
This is not to say Rooh Afza has not had its share of competition. Not only were other brands of sharbat like Shehzan’s ‘Samarkand’ and Qarshi’s ‘Jam-e-Shireen’ rising as alternatives, but Western fizzy drinks like Pepsi and Coca-Cola grew increasingly popular and were marketed as sporty drinks (particularly to be had while viewing the nation’s favorite pastime, cricket). Rooh Afza challenged its competitors through its marketing strategy, labeling itself as the authentic drink of the nation and elixir of the East. While this rivalry has existed in advertisements since the 1980’s and continues today, oftentimes families simply choose based on preferences and tastes.
Qarshi's Jaam-e-Shireen and Shehzan's Samarkand
Regardless of the brand, traditional red sharbat is as versatile as it is popular. It is added to dairy, desserts and other drinks for an extra special taste. It is a part of many Pakistanis’ childhoods, passed down from generations as a refreshing drink to share with friends, family and loved ones during all the meals of the day. Ramadan brings these beverages to the forefront, with average sales increasing exponentially during the month. Mosques, family parties and communal kitchens all offer the drink for those who wish to break their fasts together. Pakistan even offered to export Rooh Afza bottles to India, when the latter was facing a shortage in the past few years.
Chilled Rooh Afza Milk With Basil Seeds
Traditional sharbat has come a long way through the annals of history as a quintessentially Eastern drink. While new recipes are constantly made using different ingredients and to varying results, the basic aim has always been to provide refreshment and instant hydration. South Asian Muslim families have kept the drink alive and popular, as it is an affordable and revitalizing drink shared with community members across generations.
You may also like:
