Written by: Haroon Shuaib
Posted on: July 04, 2023 | 
| 中文
Mir Chakar Khan Rind Fort of Sibi
Sibi, a district with a headquarter city of the same name in the western part of Balochistan province is a fascinating place. Situated in a desert, it experiences sweltering summer and a mild winter. The district’s geography and climate differ considerably from other districts of Balochistan. It is Pakistan’s “Hot Spot,” where summertime highs of 52 °C (125 °F) temperatures are typical. Sharing a small border with Mastung District in the northwest, several other mountainous districts flank Sibi, such as Ziarat in the north, Kohlu in the east, Bolan in the south, and Loralai in the northeast. Considered one of the oldest cities of Balochistan, Sibi is famous for its stunning natural surroundings, including the Zen and Dungan mountain ranges and its various historical landmarks.
Map of Sibi district
Historically, Sibi was known as Sivi or Sewi, named after a Hindu Rani (Queen) Sewi, who belonged to the Sewa Dynasty that ruled Balochistan before the seventh century. Sibi remained a tributary of Multan in the early 13th century. During this period, Nasiruddin Qabacha of the Ghurid Empire ruled the district. For a significant part of history, the city was either under Multan or Sindh states. In the late 15th century, the Arghun dynasty of Kandahar captured it from the Samma Dynasty of Sindh. Nader Shah Afshar, the founder of the Afsharid Empire, took over the district in 1737. Ahmad Shah Durrani of the Afghan Empire took control of it in 1747, and designated Barozai clan members as local officials. The Kalhora dynasty administered the area in the 18th century but fell under the control of the Marri and Bugti tribes in the 19th century. To end the rebellion by the Marri and Bugti tribes, the British signed a treaty with the Khan of Kalat in the late 19th century under which Sibi, Shalkot and Chagai territory were leased to British India. During the British rule, Sibi gained a lot of strategic significance as a crucial intersection on the Harnai and Quetta loop railway lines, and was made into a district by the British in 1903.
An aerial view of the fields of Sibi
The communities living in Sibi, comprise of a majority of Panni Pashtuns, a branch of the Ghourghust tribe and a branch of the well-known Pashtun clan Kakar. They are hospitable, open hearted and deeply religious. Most of them speak Balochi, Sindhi and Siraiki, while smaller communities also speak Pashto, Brahui and other languages. It is a farming community and livestock rearing is a common occupation. The prized Sibi Bhagnari is the largest breed of the giant Zebu cattle and originates from Sibi. Its name is derived from the town of Bhag which is to the south of Sibi and Nari river that flows through the breeding area. The breed typically has a white or grey colored body and is black around the neck and has a black tail switch with a moderate sized hump. Mostly fed on dry fodder, it is claimed that Sibi Bhagnari is the biggest cattle breed in the world.
Bank of the Nari Canal in Sibi
The legendry Bolan Pass railway track coils through the Toba Kakar range. Strategically located, this gorge is part of the ancient Silk Road and has been an important trade route since ancient times, that was used by traders, invaders and nomads as a gateway to and from South Asia connecting the regions of Balochistan and Sindh. It is an important pass connecting Jacobabad and Jhang with Multan, and occupied an important place, particularly in the history of British campaigns in Afghanistan. Sibi Railway Station is a junction railway station with a track that was laid in the 1890s during the British era, with two routes of railway, one connecting Harnai and the other connecting Quetta near the entrance of the Bolan Pass.
A view of the railway line passing through a mountain gorge of Sibi
Located on the Sibi city’s borders is the Mir Chakar Khan Fort, which was constructed in the 15th century by a tribal leader from the Balochi region named Mir Chakar Khan Rind, who defeated the Lashari tribe after a conflict that lasted thirty years. This fort and Mir Chakar have historical significance, not only for the dwellers of Sibi but also for the Baloch people. The land selected by Mir Chakar Khan Rind to build this fort has rich and fertile soil where agriculture flourishes. Widely revered as a heroic warrior and freedom fighter, he was a prominent figure from the era of the Mughals. Born in 1468 in Sibi, he came from a noble family of tribal chiefs. The Rinds had ruled over the Lasharis, and he became the chieftain of the Rind tribe at the young age of 18, succeeding his father, Mir Shehaq Khan Rind, after he passed away. To the people of Balochistan, Mir Chakar, The Great, was a hero who brought prosperity and defined Baloch identity. He is the subject of many folklores and epics narrated over the centuries. In 1518, after the brutal civil war between the perpetual rivals Lasharis and Rinds ended, with the Rinds proclaimed as triumphant, Mir Chakar Rind, disillusioned by the ferocity of war and bloodshed, left Balochistan and settled in Punjab. Interestingly, he had two grandsons and the districts Dera Ismail Khan and Dera Ghazi Khan are actually named after them. Sardar Mir Chakar Khan Rind died in 1556 by natural causes. His fort, little of which remains today due to the ravages of time, known as "Chakar Killa" (the fortress of Chakar), stands on a hilltop overlooking the town of Sibi.
Army cantonment at Sibi with remnants of Sibi fort visible in the background - an archive photo from '1880s
Other historical sites in Sibi include Sohbat Serai (hotel), built by Sardar Sohbat Khan to cater for travelers. The Mehrgarh archeological stretch also has multiple sites scattered along the Bolan Pass. It was from Sibi that a 6,000-year-old copper amulet in the shape of a wheel was discovered, displaying the earliest known instance of the lost-wax method. The ruins of Mehrgarh are a fascinating glimpse into the region’s history. Other landmarks of interest are the Jigra Hall, which has now been turned into a museum with collections of pieces found at the Mehrgarh, Nashero and Safi Pirak archeological sites, and the infamous Sibi Central Prison.
In recent times, the Nari Gorge Dam, constructed on the Nari River that winds though Sibi, is the mainstay of the irrigation system for the region and is a unique and a picturesque spot. It is on the banks of the Nari river that the people of Balochistan have been celebrating the annual Sibi Mela since the 15th century. Some claim that it has been a tradition from dating back to the time of the Mehrgarh civilization. Held since the ancient times, to mark the arrival of spring every year in the month of February, the rulers invited all the tribes in the region to gather in Sibi to resolve their disputes through a grand jirga and promote trade, particularly of livestock. This tradition continued till the 17th century, when large caravanserais were built to accommodate the tribal chiefs and their colorful entourages. Sir Robert Sandeman, who was appointed the British Governor General’s agent in 1876, encouraged the annual Jirga to avoid bloody feuds between tribes. Livestock breeders from as far as Sindh and Multan gather in Sibi to sell, buy, compete and display different types of camels, cattle and goats. According to historical accounts, people of Sibi prepared for six of the twelve months for the mela, and spent the rest of the six months in recalling it. According to some estimates, around 500,000 people attend this mela where the proud Baloch and visitors display their skills in tent pegging, camel racing, handicrafts, folk dances, music, and other leisurely pursuits. Qaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah also visited Sibi in 1948 in order to attended the annual gathering and address the tribal leaders and the general public.
A mosque in Sibi
With a great archeological, cultural and historical legacy, Sibi’s future is looking up as it has become a part of the western China Pakistan Economic Corridor route that passes through the districts of Ziarat, Quetta and Sibi, while a recently constructed road is connecting Sibi to the Kohlu District of Balochistan.
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