Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
Posted on: November 16, 2022 | 
| 中文
Sukkur Barrage
The city of Sukkur, which serves as the gateway to Sindh, is an intense introduction to the richness of the province. The rich culture and history that Sindh offers is on ample display in the city, replete with shrines, relics, and monuments. There are stories everywhere in the province's third-largest city: under the minaret, around the grave and beneath a rock. The ruins of Lakhan-jo-Daro attest to the city’s ancient history, dating back to the time of the Indus Valley Civilization. Lying directly across from Rohri, these two cities of the same district are connected by an impressive bridge that spans over the mighty Indus.
On the Lansdowne Bridge
The Lansdowne Bridge is arguably the most popular icon of Sukkur, and a cursory look at the structure is enough to give you the reason why. Built by the British in 1889, the bridge was widely praised for its engineering prowess, and was the world's largest cantilever bridge at the time of its construction. Even though various ambitious designs were put forward to bridge the Indus and provide a railway connection between Lahore and Karachi, it was the plan of Sir Alexander Meadows Rendel that materialized. After the creation of Pakistan, a newer bridge called Ayub was constructed in parallel to the Lansdowne bridge in 1962, following basically the same design but maintaining its own distinction. The railroad traffic was then shifted from the Lansdowne to the Ayub bridge. About 100 meters apart, it is now difficult to separate the bridges for the viewer from a distance, as they appear like one structure. However, the Lansdowne continues to claim its place, not the least because of the stories attached to it.
Sir Alexander Meadows Rendel, the architect of the Lansdowne Bridge
In Sindh, much like everywhere else, it’s hard to tell fact from fiction. But the accounts are interesting, nonetheless. Officially, the Lansdowne Bridge claimed six lives during its construction, but it might have lent the province one of its most popular slogans: Ho Jamalo. Even though the British Gazetteer makes no mention of it, it's a well-known story that every guide in Sukkur will eagerly tell you.
There are various versions of the story, some contested more than others, but the routine narration goes that Jamal Sheedi was an inhabitant of Sukkur who was sentenced to death. After the British were done constructing this iron marvel of giant dimensions, they weren’t sure about its stability. Accordingly, running a train over the bridge was a dangerous prospect. It is said that Jamal Sheedi struck a deal with the British: he would test drive a train over the bridge, but only to be set free in case the journey was a success. As the train rattled over the Lansdowne, the bridge collapsed a little into the ground. It only lasted a minute, and the bridge quickly stabilized. Sheedi’s family, who were waiting at the other end of the bridge, shouted merrily as he saw the train approach them, "Jeko Khaati Ayo Khair Saan, Ho Jamalo!" which is translated as "Oh great Jamal, you have come victorious without facing any loss." Over the years, "Ho Jamalo" has become the most popular slogan in Sindh, becoming an expression of joy as well as a slogan for resistance movements. It probably owes its origins to the exploits of Jamal Sheedi on the Lansdowne Bridge.
Lansdowne Bridge in 1897
This bridge, however, is not the only reminder of the British in Sukkur. The birth of "modern Sukkur" is entirely credited to the British, who established a military garrison here in 1839. Another structure that serves as a reminder of the colonizers’ acumen is the Sukkur Barrage. Originally called the Llyod Barrage, named after the Governor of Bombay, it is known for being among the largest single irrigation networks of its kind in the world. With its 66 gates that attract tourists, it was built between 1923 and 1932. While also serving as a bridge, its excellence lies in commanding millions of hectares of irrigated land. It feeds seven canals, and the province of Sindh largely depends on this water to survive.
Plaque at the Sukkur Barrage (Lloyd Barrage)
But while some structures have historical associations, others are more practical. The Sukkur barrage was guaranteed to function for 50 years, but it has already been there for 90. In the recent floods that hit the country, the Sukkur barrage became a central instrument to control the flood waters. Due to years of neglect, the re-direction of water by the barrage to the canals might have become faulty. Layers of silt, measuring meters in length, have already piled up in the network, leaving little room for the water to flow. This results in a backlog of water and flooding, as recent events have shown. But then there's a divergent view, which states that controlling rivers with projects like these is setting yourself up for disasters. While the burden is put on the barrage to control the floods, it is also argued that there might not have been such floods had the river not been subjected to such unnatural maneuvering.
Lloyd Barrage Museum
In Sukkur, the colonial legacy is evident, but after the recent floods, the benefits of the Sukkur Barrage are being questioned. However, it gave Sindh one of its most popular slogans, an irrigation network and impressive bridges.
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