Written by: Mahnaz Shujrah
Posted on: December 21, 2020 | 
| 中文
DJ Science College
When I found myself stuck in Karachi, a cosmopolitan megacity of diverse people and ideas, I wanted to use this opportunity to explore a place I’ve heard so much about. Located in the densely populated area of Old Town Saddar in the heart of Karachi, I made my way to Pakistan Chowk.
The Chowk underwent restoration and was in the limelight due to the Pakistan Chowk Initiative which was completed in 2016. The project aimed to reclaim the area and transform it into the shared community space as it was initially used. Interested tourists can even sign up for Heritage Walk Karachi, a walking tour of the area started by the Pakistan Chowk Community Center (PCCC), which allows locals and foreigners to witness the architectural gems hidden in this area’s narrow streets.
The Plaque for the Pakistan Chowk Initiative
However, what was Pakistan Chowk called earlier on? Many places in the Subcontinent have been renamed since Partition, so I expected to encounter multiple names for the same area. While some communities are still colloquially known by their original names, in the case of Pakistan Chowk, it was not so simple. The generations are not aware of any other name or the legacy of this Chowk. I questioned some of the older generation of Karachiites who I knew, a few of whom suggested that the area must have been named Dayaram Chowk, after Daya Ram Gidumal Shahani, who was among the most prominent figures of Karachi during the British Raj.
A Dilapidated Building on Kutchery Road
A renowned judge by profession, a learned scholar and an education enthusiast by choice, Gidumal’s contribution to Karachi’s social fabric is undeniable. He was among Sindh’s first graduates, and an eminent representative of the Sindhi Hindu community. He was familiar with Sanskrit, Arabic and Persian. Also known as the “Father of Education”, he bought the land in this area in the 1880’s and established the famous D.J Science College, named after Dayaram Jethamal, a key financial supporter for the initiative.
Later on, three prominent hostels were built in the area, namely Mehtaram, Sevakunj and Meetharam. These were relatively free and affordable residencies, which became hubs of cultural exchange and philosophical conversations. Nadirshaw Eduljee Dinshaw (NED) University, a university headed by Sahib Singh Chatur Singh Shahani, became a flagship institution, and its students would find themselves reading and interacting with new, progressive ideas everyday. This created a demand for printing presses which were set up around the Chowk, many of which exist today. The esteemed Shahani family consisted of many educationists, writers, and philanthropists, who laid the foundation for multiple educational institutions throughout Sindh.
Meghraj Dwarkadas Nagpal
After an interesting conversation with the historian Ghulam Hussain Kalmati, who has written extensively on the history of Karachi, he explained that besides Dayaram Chowk, the area was casually referred to as Lumber or Lumber Chowk, stemming from the Lumber market that existed centuries back. He also added that in the period leading up to Partition, it was briefly known as Gandhi Chowk, after an incident in which Gandhi gave a public address there. However, there are no records of his delivering a speech here, and even the statue of Gandhi which was erected in front of what is now Sindh High Court, has long been taken down.
There are also traces of a small garden and sitting space in the middle of the square, now called “Aram Bagh”, while its true name remains “Ram Bagh”. There is a plaque which commemorates the history of the name, acknowledging that “Rambagh talao” was one of the three water tanks in the vicinity, which fed into many wells across the city. It is also a part of Hindu belief that Ram, Sita and Lakshman made a stop here during their pilgrimage.
A Roundabout at the Chowk
Additionally, it is suggested that this region is linked to ancient texts of great significance in the Hindu tradition. The change to “Arambagh” was not a formal intervention, rather a slow shift overtime. After Partition, both Pakistan Chowk and Ram Bagh became a focal point for new migrants entering the city, who set up camp there until they could find residences. This area seemed to be more prone to receiving settlers for two reasons: firstly, before Partition, the Pakistan Chowk area already hosted Hindu families who shifted here due to impending Partition violence, and their residences were later used as shelter to accommodate displaced persons. Secondly, the area was already an educational hub with many affordable hostels, which became an ideal place for young people hoping to make something of themselves in this new country.
A Residential Apartment Building Near Motandas Market, Bunder Road
After Gidumal died, his son Kewalram Shahani turned the area into a public space. He organized public libraries and art centers around the Chowk, and to his dismay many of them were later uprooted to make space for police stations and eateries. He was a writer himself, who wrote on Sufi philosophy and authored a famous indigenous feminist text called, “Maa aen Dheeya”, which means “mother and daughter” in Sindhi. Based on oral recollections, some accounts recalled that the area was also recognized as Maa Dheeya Chowk. However, one cannot be sure how widely this name was used, as these changes are not well documented in written accounts.
Under Kewalram, the area expanded beyond educational activities. Asad Alvi in his research about Pakistan Chowk, writes about how this location was home to one of the largest taxi station and Purana Tonga (horse-drawn carriage) stand. There emerged cafes and even a ground serving as a wrestling arena for people waiting for transport. It was a space for everything and everyone, resting on the pillars of shared community values.
Rickshaws Parked at the Chowk
The community living here continues to remain diverse, with people from multiple faiths, residing together, including Hindus, Christians and Parsis. While the restoration initiatives are necessary, they must also emerge from within the community itself through recording histories. Tracing the evolution of the Chowk as imagined by the people, will ultimately help remind people of the principles for which it was created in the first place. The buildings around Pakistan Chowk may be decaying, but an effort must be made to reclaim it as an intellectual and educational hub.
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